I didn't find much info on fixing the hyperblink on CL besides buying some 200 dollar module... what a ripoff and I think it works for 95+ cars only. For that price I rather live with the fast blink.

Anyways here's what you need...

4 x (50W Aluminum Power Resistors 6 Ohms 1%), 2 for each side...
PN:RH0506R000FE02

Price + Shipping (as of 3/18):
1: $5.22
10: $2.61
30: $2.50
100: $2.07
200: $1.82

**Updated** Wiring Diagram:



Pic of it on car:
I put 3M Double Sided Tape and mounted them. Also you might notice that I have 2 resistors, I only bought 6 ohms which isn't enough resistance and had to wire them both for it to work.


Video: Left Blinker (installed), Right Blinker (not installed)



Goodluck!

 

You are a genious! You just saved alot of people $200!

 

This is great! Thanks!!

 

Those will get HOT if left on for any amount of time like at an intersection so place them carefully. I've used them, and a few other people have also. They seem to have various issues with some people. Never looked into why since I only had mine in for a few days.

 

Yeah like OLT said these will get hot so don't mount them near any plastics.

 

AWESOME! good job man.

 

So what was wrong when we looked at it Chanh? Did I say Green/black?

 

We didn't wire the 2 resistors together correctly. Other than that...this write up is based on how you wired yours. Thanks for the help.

 

yup, the 97 module wont work in the 92-4 cars. i tried it! btw, its for sale for $30... probably the only reason i wish, i had a 95-6 chassis.

'siniquezu' fixed my faster blinker somehow, without adding anything to my car. well worth his fee. if you can, i'd try that route. if those resistors just heat up, then they're just as bad as adding more bulbs to the circuit.

now i just gotta figure out how to get rid of this brake lamp warning. i went from no wing (high mount brake lamp) to oem wing (led lamp).

 

More resistors, or just take out the cluster and remove the bulb.

 

I just drove to work making sure to use my signal every single time. It's about a 20 minute drive. When I got to work, I touched the resistor and it's warm to the touch, it's not hot at all. It may be because I'm using 2 resistors instead of one...

Edit: Just ran a quick errand, this time had the blinker on for a little longer, parked and touched the resistor and it's pretty hot... so nevermind about it getting not too hot. So like I mentioned earlier, mount the resistor away from plastics.

 

Do you know what siniquezu did?

 

Modified the relay the same way I did when I made mine adjustable to dial in any flash rate you wish. Mine is still in testing. Once I know it and the relay jive together in harmony I can release the info.

 

Another possibility I chose is to use the original wiring harness, and just swap the sockets from the new harness to work with the new taillight. I wired in the 2 extra signal light bulbs per side to hang behind the rear trunk panel, and just secured them to the car so they can't come in contact with anything in case they get hot. Works great, no hyperblink, no dash light. Took a while, but that's mostly because the newer tails I bought had some corroded sockets, so trial and error consumed a lot of time. If I were to do it again, I'd say and hour or two max.

 

If you have a wiring diagram and maybe a picture of what you did I can add it to my original post. Give people some options.