Dynoed today....
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Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,205
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From: Ohio
Dynoed today....
I caught the back end of a dyno special at Collettis in Dayton today... I didn't have time to tweak the car, just pump gas (93) on this run....
Anyways, she spit out an uncorrected 438RWHP@6400rpm.
This was at 10-13psi, with boost rising from the 10psi baseline between 5000-6600rpm.
Corrected numbers:
423.4RWHP@6600rpm
337.4LBS/FT@6300rpm
The torque # is low because I had the guy squeeze the pedal and I told him not to get full on it until 5500rpm. It seems to react better if you gradually put the hammer down. Next time out, I'll juice up with some 116 CAM2 and 18psi.
Will post dyno sheet soon.
Anyways, she spit out an uncorrected 438RWHP@6400rpm.
This was at 10-13psi, with boost rising from the 10psi baseline between 5000-6600rpm.
Corrected numbers:
423.4RWHP@6600rpm
337.4LBS/FT@6300rpm
The torque # is low because I had the guy squeeze the pedal and I told him not to get full on it until 5500rpm. It seems to react better if you gradually put the hammer down. Next time out, I'll juice up with some 116 CAM2 and 18psi.
Will post dyno sheet soon.
WOW...that is awsome......got to be carefull on the boost man....im very cautious with boost......what other kinds of cars were there dynoing?.....did they get suprised by the old lexus 
...im super happy for ya man...definitly have to go with some race gas and higher boost.....your gonna freaking hit 500whp....lol......got to love those toyomoto turbo kits....Jeff
...im super happy for ya man...definitly have to go with some race gas and higher boost.....your gonna freaking hit 500whp....lol......got to love those toyomoto turbo kits....Jeff
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,476
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From: Florida
Mike...I don't think it was boost creep...both Scott and myself use the APEX'i AVC-R as a boost controller...and it allows for RPM based boost levels...so more boost up high...etc. Just my thought...
I've got a copy of his settings...he runs 10.29psi up to 4500, then 11.025psi up to 5500, then 12.5psi up to 14.7psi the rest of the way. And that's just his default settings...no idea what he did to them before the dyno.
SR
I've got a copy of his settings...he runs 10.29psi up to 4500, then 11.025psi up to 5500, then 12.5psi up to 14.7psi the rest of the way. And that's just his default settings...no idea what he did to them before the dyno.
SR
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,476
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From: Florida
Scott...I forgot to mention...awesome numbers!!!
I think I know the resolution to problem you're having...where you said it seems to react better if you don't stomp on it.
I noticed this same thing after I unhooked the O2 sensor. If you stomp it, the A/F ratio is getting above 1.0...and floods and bogs the car down.
I've been tweaking my S-AFC to fix the ratios...and it's made a WORLD of difference. I've got smooth laydown of power even if I stomp it now.
Using JUST the factory fuel injectors...my car still runs on the rich side, even when on boost. Add to that the additional fuel injector you're running, and it's getting flooded. I use the AFC to add just a little fuel to the car when I'm at high RPM's *and* high throttle. Granted I can't fully tune it yet...slipping clutch won't allow for this.
As soon as I get the clutch in it, I'm gonna dyno and tune it...and I'll post all my AVC-R and S-AFC settings for anyone to try. As well as post my dyno runs.
Do you have an A/F gauge in your car? If so...try this once. Unhook the plug from the additional injector, and drive the car a little. You'll see that it STILL never goes lean...and actually stays rich just about always. The Haltech is adding more fuel starting at 1psi...so you're getting more fuel almost from the start.
SR
I think I know the resolution to problem you're having...where you said it seems to react better if you don't stomp on it.
I noticed this same thing after I unhooked the O2 sensor. If you stomp it, the A/F ratio is getting above 1.0...and floods and bogs the car down.
I've been tweaking my S-AFC to fix the ratios...and it's made a WORLD of difference. I've got smooth laydown of power even if I stomp it now.
Using JUST the factory fuel injectors...my car still runs on the rich side, even when on boost. Add to that the additional fuel injector you're running, and it's getting flooded. I use the AFC to add just a little fuel to the car when I'm at high RPM's *and* high throttle. Granted I can't fully tune it yet...slipping clutch won't allow for this.
As soon as I get the clutch in it, I'm gonna dyno and tune it...and I'll post all my AVC-R and S-AFC settings for anyone to try. As well as post my dyno runs.
Do you have an A/F gauge in your car? If so...try this once. Unhook the plug from the additional injector, and drive the car a little. You'll see that it STILL never goes lean...and actually stays rich just about always. The Haltech is adding more fuel starting at 1psi...so you're getting more fuel almost from the start.
SR
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 35
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From: Pensacola, FL
Originally posted by CmputerWiz
Mike...I don't think it was boost creep...both Scott and myself use the APEX'i AVC-R as a boost controller...and it allows for RPM based boost levels...so more boost up high...etc. Just my thought...
Mike...I don't think it was boost creep...both Scott and myself use the APEX'i AVC-R as a boost controller...and it allows for RPM based boost levels...so more boost up high...etc. Just my thought...
I just wanted to make sure that you guys weren't experiencing any boost creep with the Toyomoto kits.
Mike
Thread Starter
Lexus Test Driver
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From: Ohio
Definitely not boost creep. As wiz said, it progressively adds boost top end. The stock timing maps advance the ignition too much in the 4000-5000rpm range to run really high boost in that area, so I back off a little in that area. After the run, the peak hold listed .91 bar as the peak - or 13psi.
The start duty is tweaked down a little in 3rd, 4th and 5th, as those gears last longer and are more succeptable to detonation (higher EGTS). The dyno pull was in 4th gear.
When I was driving it up, it seemed to be backing off on timing a bit, even though I wasn't hearing any detonation. I typically add at least a little CAM2 for good measure.
I think its got well over 500rwhp on straight CAM2, as it seems MUCH more powerful and it doesn't get any timing retard, even at 18psi... In its current setup it gains 20RWHP per pound of boost until it reaches peak compressor efficiency which is around 18-20psi.
Wiz, I'm probably going S-AFC or Haltech and then the Greddy A/F gauge with semi wide band 02 sensor. (After the exhaust and intake work, of course.)
The start duty is tweaked down a little in 3rd, 4th and 5th, as those gears last longer and are more succeptable to detonation (higher EGTS). The dyno pull was in 4th gear.
When I was driving it up, it seemed to be backing off on timing a bit, even though I wasn't hearing any detonation. I typically add at least a little CAM2 for good measure.
I think its got well over 500rwhp on straight CAM2, as it seems MUCH more powerful and it doesn't get any timing retard, even at 18psi... In its current setup it gains 20RWHP per pound of boost until it reaches peak compressor efficiency which is around 18-20psi.
Wiz, I'm probably going S-AFC or Haltech and then the Greddy A/F gauge with semi wide band 02 sensor. (After the exhaust and intake work, of course.)
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Driver School Candidate
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 35
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From: Pensacola, FL
Originally posted by SC300T
Wiz, I'm probably going S-AFC or Haltech and then the Greddy A/F gauge with semi wide band 02 sensor. (After the exhaust and intake work, of course.)
Wiz, I'm probably going S-AFC or Haltech and then the Greddy A/F gauge with semi wide band 02 sensor. (After the exhaust and intake work, of course.)
Just a thought...
Mike
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Thread Starter
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Ohio
Not personally, but as Jeff said, Toyomoto has done quite a few and all have been great success. Perhaps Jeff knows some of them... I would imagine that you'd want to buy the Haltech from Toyomoto in hopes that Lance would include some baseline fuel / ignition maps on diskette. I'm pretty sure that if you just get the Haltech from someone else you'll have a headache coming up with the baseline settings as none are provided. You'll also want a lapttop computer for on the fly programming, but we've all got those, right?
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 35
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From: Pensacola, FL
Originally posted by SC300T
Not personally, but as Jeff said, Toyomoto has done quite a few and all have been great success. Perhaps Jeff knows some of them... I would imagine that you'd want to buy the Haltech from Toyomoto in hopes that Lance would include some baseline fuel / ignition maps on diskette. I'm pretty sure that if you just get the Haltech from someone else you'll have a headache coming up with the baseline settings as none are provided. You'll also want a lapttop computer for on the fly programming, but we've all got those, right?
Not personally, but as Jeff said, Toyomoto has done quite a few and all have been great success. Perhaps Jeff knows some of them... I would imagine that you'd want to buy the Haltech from Toyomoto in hopes that Lance would include some baseline fuel / ignition maps on diskette. I'm pretty sure that if you just get the Haltech from someone else you'll have a headache coming up with the baseline settings as none are provided. You'll also want a lapttop computer for on the fly programming, but we've all got those, right?
Okay, I wasn't aware that Toyomoto was a Haltech dealer
If in fact he does include a base map, then it would definetely be worth purchasing from him. Not to mention some type of installation instructions.
Mike
:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
thats all I can say scott
Damn I can't wait until I have a 60-1 on my car...
So the non-O2 sensor ignition map advances a lot at 4500-5500 rpms? How many degrees should it be pulled back at that point?
I may never need to get an ITC, because I hear G-Force will custom make an ECU with the selected injectors and ignition timing setup for the motor...
thats all I can say scott
Damn I can't wait until I have a 60-1 on my car...
So the non-O2 sensor ignition map advances a lot at 4500-5500 rpms? How many degrees should it be pulled back at that point?
I may never need to get an ITC, because I hear G-Force will custom make an ECU with the selected injectors and ignition timing setup for the motor...
Thread Starter
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,205
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From: Ohio
I wouldn't go Apexi ITC... As far as I know, it adjusts timing in certain RPM intervals, but it also backs off timing across all throttle positions and manifold pressures, meaning at normal driving, it will retard and cause your fuel economy to suffer. The Haltech standalone ECU is a much better choice, especially when you consider the ITC and G-Force upgrades will be close to the same $$$ and are not adjustable.
The Haltech replaces:
VPC/GCC
ITC
AFC
G-Force rev limiter
It will do simple boost control as well, but at a fraction of the price of all those other boxes.
The Haltech replaces:
VPC/GCC
ITC
AFC
G-Force rev limiter
It will do simple boost control as well, but at a fraction of the price of all those other boxes.
