Thought I would help the community out here as I just went through this fiasco over the weekend.

First: The video above does NOT work for the 4th gen RX's. Period. I even posted a comment on his video and he admitted this (the guy has a poor communication style if not bad information, sorry, it's true).

Second, my suspicion is that IF you follow the posted NX procedure where you jump the two pins in the DLC connector THEN perform the button trick it might work.

I wasted a ton of time trying to get that guy's trick to work. Then I wasted a ton of time trying to get the ridiculously hacky/ancient Techstream software working on a laptop with one of the horrendous clone cables......HUGE waste of time.

So, where does that leave someone?

Simple: 9V battery and some cables (if you have a cheap multimeter in your shop you can use those as very easy probes. It was ridiculously easy to use a 9V battery and a C-clamp. Literally apply power, watch to see if the piston is pushing out (it moves at a snail's pace with a 9 volt battery so no fear unless you are asleep that it will "pop a piston" out). If you have the probes applied correctly then let it rewind a bit, c-clamp until you feel pressure, rewind more. DONE. Took all of 2 minutes or less per side.

As for the guy in the video talking about "Mess up your calibration if you use the battery trick". NO. It's a 2 wire system on our cars. That means the ECU literally is "watching" for voltage drops as it sees resistance against the rotor. I had zero codes result from this and zero drama. It's a very simple system.

So in conclusion....get a 9V battery, change your rear brakes, stop removing the EPB assembly and buying overpriced o-rings, go drink a beer.

Last tip: Before you remove the caliper make sure you have the EPB motor's electrical connector unplugged (it prevents you from breaking the connector or wires). Easy. REALLY EASY!

 

Ghost31711 I try that when I first saw it on my 2017 Lexus RX and it didn’t work for me, but maybe I was doing it wrong so I wind up doing it the way Mrcheap did it with a 9 V battery and it worked perfectly fine..

 

I was the one asking about the Torx wrench method. I had seen other videos using that method and was wondering why he said that it would not work. Seems to me calibration would be set after just one cycle of engage and re-engage.

Only concern with the battery method is frying something. Does anyone know what the motor rating is for voltage and current?

Once again, why do they make such easy repairs so complicated. First they take away the trans fluid dipstick, then they use oil filter canisters, now electronic parking brakes.

 

It's a standard 12-14 volt electric motor. That's for "rated" speed of actuation. The reason I recommend using a 9V battery is A. It works, B. You get the luxury of moving the actuator spindle much slower (which is a big deal since the first time you wire your two probes you likely will have it reversed such that the spindle is moving out.....but with a 9v battery it is slooooowww (read no risk of piston popping out)).

It absolutely works. I did it on both rear brakes on my 16 RX this weekend. Zero issues. No codes, no faults, EBP functions without issue at all. This is about the easiest method there is for this over engineered mess. Want more proof? Lexus sells the dealerships an SST (special service tool) that essentially does the exact same thing (uses the 12V car battery in the vehicle) to apply power the same exact way in the event you have a dead EPB controller/etc. They wouldn't offer that option if it was damaging.

 

You didn't do it wrong, the YouTube video shows an invalid method for the gen 4 RX's. I even got him to admit it in the comments of the video. As I posted above it MIGHT work if you use the NX method where you jump 2 pins in the DLC port (aka the OBD2 diag port under your dash), but I didn't care to try when the 9V battery method is so stupid easy (and fool proof).

 

Yeah I tried it out today out of curiosity and couldn't get it to work either... sorry guys...

I guess it was fortunate for me i didn't see his video before changing brake pads after all.. would have wasted an hour getting frustrated especially what he said towards the end, and i probably wouldn't have o-rings ready for the EPB.... im gonna edit the post saying it doesn't work for our cars.

i guess I'll try the 9v battery trick again next time with better connectors

 

9v battery is easy

just get some mini alligator clips from Amazon and you’re good to go. Just follow my picture and you already know which is + and -

 

There’s a guy on YouTube he’s a Lexus specialist I keep asking him how to change the rear brakes but he hasn’t replied yet maybe he knows the easier way. But so far I think the 9 V battery trick is the easiest way for me..

His name is Viktor G

 

Just had our 65,000km service dine today and as usual; Lexus recommended other things. Usually it’s fairly minor, but on top of the $350 cost for the 65k km service that is basically an oil change, complete inspection and tightening/lubricating where needed, they commended and alignment for $190 (which I know o can get done for a lot less, but with the current Covid test crime in place, just got it done through he dealer).

the also said the rear brakes pads are showing signs of wear and probably should be done in the September service and quoted $700. It’s been a while since if got brakes replaced, but that sound really excessive. Is that how much the service is supposed to cost????

We got our 2017 Rx350 n early 2018 and got the 7 year 180k km extended warranty. Anyone know if I got th ca serviced elsewhere if the warranty is still valid???

it just seems excessive maintenance cost compared only no cost maintenance for my BMW M3. $350 for basically an oil change, tire rotation and preventive inspection for the 65k km service, plus and additional $190 for an alignment and $50 for resetting the TPMS sensor for swapping my winter tires with the regular that are already on rims (when regular swap is supposed to be included in the service in lieu of rotation).

anyway been feeling a little bit of price gouged at the dealer, wanted to get advice on cost of the quoted brake replacement cost and whether the extended warranty would be at risk if I got the car serviced elsewhere.

 

When I shopped alignment pricing last year, it was about USD$130, either dealer or chain shop. I haven't needed brake replacement yet.

 

Your dealer is gauging you. I had a wheel alignment done at my Lexus dealer and the cost was CA$140. All you have to do, to keep your warranty, is follow your owner's manual and not what the dealer recommends unless there is some specific service schedule in your xtended warranty.

 

Find an independent brake/alignment shop. They average $70-$80 for these cars. Even better is when you find one that says the alignment is in spec and charges you nothing (read my story on the timing chain cover thread for laughs).

 

What’s the big deal about alignments honestly?

Did they show you a print out with the wheels out of spec or did they just recommend it?

I haven’t done an alignment in maybe 15 years and all my cars had even tire wear and always tracked straight.

Do you guys slam into curbs while parking at the mall on the weekends?

 

This is why dealers want you to have your car serviced there....once they have you in the building all sorts of things show up. Unless they can show uneven wear or alignment measurements that are off spec then just another way to pay for their big beautiful dealership. I got so sick of this crap that I started back on doing my own work. Many places including Toyota dealerships will easily beat those prices if you don't want to do it yourself.

 

Assuming your new RX came out of the factory in perfect alignment, in the first year or 10K miles of driving, the suspension will "settle" somewhat, and that will change the alignment (as I recently learned). Hitting potholes and curbs, if you happen to do that, will also change the alignment. When it is no longer in correct alignment, the tires will wear faster and unevenly, and you will not necessarily be aware or notice anything different. I discovered that my 2018 was rather far out of alignment when it already had 19K miles on it, and I assume that was part of the reason the OEM Bridgestones were shot at 28K miles.

Lexus mentioned it in a note on a service report, that I did not see until a number of days after I had that service, and they falsely stated that I had declined to have it realigned. The chain tire & brake shop that it took the car to soon thereafter showed me a printout of the "before" and "after" alignment. Unfortunately, they reached the limit of adjustment available to them on one wheel, so it remained slightly out of adjustment. The next time I took it to Lexus, I had them do an alignment -- the price was the same.

Hmmmm. I drove 85 mph down I-75 yesterday and didn't get caught. Is that a good basis to make that my regular practice?

LOL, no. But have you seen Ohio potholes -- I think you have some nice ones in north New Jersey, right?