Suspension alignment on a '22 non-F
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 418
Likes: 119
From: Southern California
Suspension, from new, settles from weight and driving, so I usually align my vehicles around the one year mark. I frequent a tire store, that specializes in custom wheel setups and alignment that have been dealing with for thirty-three years and I request the same wheel alignment mechanic (33 years as well and he now runs that section of the shop) who has been very informative on alignment matters. One of the more interesting wheel alignment knowledge tidbits is that wheel alignment specs can change from the manufacturer's initial specs given input from others in the industry on reported findings of tire and suspension wear. Also, truly hardcore owners (mainly owners of customs or exotics) insist on being in the vehicle’s drivers seat during alignment to account for their body weight. Purchase a good tire air gauge and tire tread depth gauge to check your tire wear. I also have an air compressor and with the newer portable handheld battery operated air inflator units it’s easy to keep your tire pressures where they need to be and to determine wear across the tread.
P.S. Always request a copy of the wheel alignment printout sheet indicating before and after specs.
P.S. Always request a copy of the wheel alignment printout sheet indicating before and after specs.
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 253
Likes: 184
From: Az
That vehicle should not have left the factory with the steering wheel not centered! Did you buy it new?
In my somewhat-educated opinion, the steering geometry is designed around the “neutral” position, when the steering linkages start out centered and theoretically the steering wheel should also be centered at that point. It is possible to get everything statically “aligned” (correct camber, caster, toe-in) with the initial Pittman arm or drop link slightly off of center, which means the steering wheel is slightly off, but steering geometry is always a compromise and as one deviates left or right from the ideal theoretical center so by “aligning” it with everything slightly off from the get-go means that as you turn left or right, the horizontal and vertical relationship between the wheels is no longer following the factory-designed compromise but instead may have more or less toe-in (or camber or caster) in one direction than the other.
Of course, there can be other issues causing feathering or cupping on the tire edges. But I would really question why the steering wheel is not centered.
In my somewhat-educated opinion, the steering geometry is designed around the “neutral” position, when the steering linkages start out centered and theoretically the steering wheel should also be centered at that point. It is possible to get everything statically “aligned” (correct camber, caster, toe-in) with the initial Pittman arm or drop link slightly off of center, which means the steering wheel is slightly off, but steering geometry is always a compromise and as one deviates left or right from the ideal theoretical center so by “aligning” it with everything slightly off from the get-go means that as you turn left or right, the horizontal and vertical relationship between the wheels is no longer following the factory-designed compromise but instead may have more or less toe-in (or camber or caster) in one direction than the other.
Of course, there can be other issues causing feathering or cupping on the tire edges. But I would really question why the steering wheel is not centered.
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hsmac
RX - 1st Gen (1999-2003)
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Sep 29, 2016 05:25 PM
