None of those. I only have Android Auto setup. Basically, my phone's bluetooth is connected to the car's bluetooth, therefore, the steering-wheel buttons all work as originally intended. The unit and phone's android auto are connected via wifi signal. The car's OEM screen functions as usual undisturbed, only you have to peek behind this new display to see what's shown. I rarely ever have a need for that. I have all of the RX control setting done once, have not felt the need to change any of them. I normally listen to the car's radio, which I have the preset buttons set to my favorite stations. Android auto can play podcast and spotify. There are two options for the android auto's audio to come out of the OEM speakers: 1. connect the cable to the aux input. 2. set android auto to broadcast FM at a frequency that has no public radio station. I tried out both, both work really well. Phone calls in and out will automatically mute the audio. Like I said, it's not perfect, but serves my purpose pretty well.

Oh, by the way, I have the basic RX model, which does not come with the factory nav system, no joy stick, only one LCD display. If you have the those, everything would work as they original designed. Also, my 1.5 hrs installation time does not cover backup camera. I just live with the tiny OEM integrated backup camera.

 

Was your installation time mostly spent getting an AUX cable to wherever it was supposed to go?
And hooking up to the OEM rear camera?

I will have a NAV screen, so if I use this one, it will block it.
If I hookup the rear camera, that part will be taken care of.
I don't know if I will need access to other settings very often, as I haven't picked up the car yet.
I also don't know if I'll use steering wheel controls much, as I haven't usually used them on any car I've had so far.
If I don't need those things, it sounds like this route will be easier to install and possibly cheaper.

 

Oh, yeah, the carplay /android auto display will be blocking your OEM display.
The installation time nearly all spent on taking apart the center console cover, and loosen up the factory radio unit just below the display. All of these efforts are simply to route the power and audio cables behind the radio, through the console to the armrest compartment to connect the power and aux input. There are a few youtube videos that show all of the steps and details. I had to watch them a few times to make sure I am doing only what's necessary for my purpose, because they each are intended for specific products they sell. There is a picture in earlier post of this thread shows exact what's like after pulling out the radio. It looks kind of messy, but the actual work is not that bad. The basic RX model has the backup camera integrated into the rearview mirror. I didn't mess with that. Hope this helps.

 

That helps.
I did an aftermarket mirror backup camera on my now totaled 2004 Acura MX. Wiring was a pain.

Sounds like there are great options if I can live with the OEM being blocked.

I can see your console has more physical buttons than mine- because the navigation version incorporates more things into the screen,

I don't have my car yet, but this manual suggests that climate controls and audio controls are in it.
https://assets.sia.toyota.com/public...f/OM48C25U.pdf

I might have to spend a few days with my car to figure out whether I can control everything adequately without that screen before I decide.

 

Yeah, to be honest, if I were you, I may only consider two options: 1. live with the OEM system, which is not bad. or 2. spend more $$ on a unit that integrates the OEM with carplay/android_auto. I vaguely remember seeing a couple on the market. The amazon solution is blocking too many essential RX controls. You don't want to peek through the crack all the time.
Best wishes, man!

 

I have a 2013 AWD base with Nav screen. You won't be able to run many things with the OEM screen blocked. This is why I posted my question above about wether or not the aftermarket screen will display the OEM controls/menus.

AC is one, radio is another. Climate controls is another. OEM bluetooth is another. (Grom lets you use Bluetooth with AA, but it can be buggy).
I have the Grom VLine2 which integrates with the OEM screen. I have to switch between OEM "mode" and Grom "mode" in order to run the Android Auto or to run the OEM stuff.

For example, if I'm using AA and Google maps, then I am in Grom mode, and my radio cuts out (but I have music via AA but sourced from my phone). If I want to change the left or right temperature settings, I can use the dash buttons, but I cannot see the temperature setting for left or right unless I switch back to OEM mode. Once there, I cannot see Google maps, so I have to change the climate settings then switch back.

I've found that the fastest way to exit Grom mode is it just hit the radio button on the dash. This gets me to the "default" screen which has left and right temperature. From there, I use the normal OEM buttons to switch to all the OEM menus including the screen for AC on/off & AC zones
To get back to Grom, I have to hit the Menu button just in front of the joystick.

 

I think I will have to go for a system that preserves the OEM information if I change it at all.

I don't think there's anything wrong with the audio in the OEM system.

It's the NAV. I don't see myself using 12 year old maps without realtime traffic and the clunky way of entering destinations.

I'll end up using my phone anyway, and finding a way to attach it that I can see without blocking anything important.

@AlgoTrader Since you're reusing the OEM screen, it must have sufficient resolution and you are able to control Android Auto well enough without a touchscreen.

 

It seems fine to me. Photo below. Note that this is several firmware/software updates ago (photo from a few years ago). Also my dashmat slightly occludes the screen. This is not the fault of Grom - it's my dash mat.
Controlling AA with the joystick is OK, but can be slightly annoying. When using Grom the snap function is enabled. Snap means the mouse jumps to a predetermined coordinate on the screen. That usually means it goes where you want it to go. Snap is needed with the Joystick because fine movements are nearly impossible when driving.

It's annoying in this instance: when using Google Maps, I reach my destination and sometimes I want to cancel the "Drive" feature prematurely (like when searching for a parking spot). The mouse cursor snaps to the option, but I cannot select the "X" to cancel Drive. Just a minor thing, but can be annoying when I'm trying not to hit anything in a busy parking lot.

 

I know how to fix that, but I don't have access to Google Maps source code.

 

I've spent about 10 hours now with my 2013 RX 450h with Nav while bringing it home.

The top screen is nice. I wish the maps part of it was more useful.
I mounted my phone where it doesn't block the screen, but it is a stretch to reach it.
While not perfect, the joystick thing is more useful than I thought it would be.

 

Hence why I just installed a GROM V2. I liked the stock mouse controller, but just wanted Android Auto. No need for touch screen as that it a pain to use while driving.

I rarely ever change my AC temperature from 72 degrees in Auto mode year round so the minor need to switch from factory to GROM is a minor inconvenience.

The only major issue I had with the GROM in RX350 was that it needed a restart every few days or so, however disconnecting the battery seem to resolved that issue for the past month now. So I recommend disconnecting the battery when first installing the GROM to the stock system to avoid the frequent crashing issue I had. I use a cup holder mount for my phone in one of my cup holders, but I rarely use both my cup holders.

I recommend the GROM VL2 over the other versions unless you just need a large screen that is sitting on top of the dash.