is 0-20 really correct for hot desert climate?
BTW, the engine in my RCF is a 5.0 V8 OEM, not a V6 (as found in the RC FSport).
I've always wondered why Lexus called for NONSYNTHETIC 5W-30 and not SYNTHETIC 5W-30. Some owners on the RCF forum switched to SYNTHETIC Mobil 5W-30 after two oil changes at 10K miles without any leaks or problems.
I've always wondered why Lexus called for NONSYNTHETIC 5W-30 and not SYNTHETIC 5W-30. Some owners on the RCF forum switched to SYNTHETIC Mobil 5W-30 after two oil changes at 10K miles without any leaks or problems.
Wow, OK that's interesting. I've yet to find a non-synthetic engine oil of this viscosity range in Australia. Not sure why.
Even the Mobil1 engine oil variants sold in Australia through the official distribution channels are different to the product available in the USA. To get the USA made Mobil1, I have to use a parallel/grey importer.
As to why Lexus would recommend a non-synthetic engine oil, that's interesting, and puzzling. Why would Lexus not want a synthetic oil? To avoid engine oil leaks perhaps? The V6 motor does have a known potential oil leak issue with the timing chain cover gasket...... maybe the use of non-synthetic oil will mitigate the risk of an oil leak. To remediate the issue, it is an "engine out" type of repair, so the use of a fully synthetic engine oil could exacerbate the possibility of developing this fault, as fully synthetic oils have a tendency to "find leaks".
If I can find a conventional engine oil, I'd much rather use that, instead of fully synthetic, for the reason of avoiding oil leaks. I think fully synthetic oils are overrated for everyday suburban driving. I do change the oil myself, so I do keep an eye on the condition of the oil all the time.
Even the Mobil1 engine oil variants sold in Australia through the official distribution channels are different to the product available in the USA. To get the USA made Mobil1, I have to use a parallel/grey importer.
As to why Lexus would recommend a non-synthetic engine oil, that's interesting, and puzzling. Why would Lexus not want a synthetic oil? To avoid engine oil leaks perhaps? The V6 motor does have a known potential oil leak issue with the timing chain cover gasket...... maybe the use of non-synthetic oil will mitigate the risk of an oil leak. To remediate the issue, it is an "engine out" type of repair, so the use of a fully synthetic engine oil could exacerbate the possibility of developing this fault, as fully synthetic oils have a tendency to "find leaks".

If I can find a conventional engine oil, I'd much rather use that, instead of fully synthetic, for the reason of avoiding oil leaks. I think fully synthetic oils are overrated for everyday suburban driving. I do change the oil myself, so I do keep an eye on the condition of the oil all the time.
Oil gets thinner with heat. That's why track people typically run a thicker oil (eg a 5w-30 in place of an 0w-20). For a hot climate in non-high performance situations, just stick with with what is suggested in the manual, and as long as running clean oil, it should be fine. If you are tracking your car, which I doubt you are with an RX, then yes, consider a thicker oil.
Yes, peak temperatures don't matter and computers have nothing to do with this - it is because high temperatures don't impede engine start-up as far as oil is concerned.
What matters however are lowest temperatures since they may influence how car starts.
Simply follow manufacturers recommendation for your region and type of oil.
What matters however are lowest temperatures since they may influence how car starts.
Simply follow manufacturers recommendation for your region and type of oil.
(Ford F250HD towing special super cab.) Never had issues driving in the Rockies where elevation is very high in some places.
I believe the coolant you are referring to is to cool the hybrid electric motor/regenerative motor and NOT the "ICE".
Also hybrid has coolant for motors. In my camping trailer towing days I used same engine oil but I had tranny oil cooler and extra heavy duty radiator on the tow truck.
(Ford F250HD towing special super cab.) Never had issues driving in the Rockies where elevation is very high in some places.
(Ford F250HD towing special super cab.) Never had issues driving in the Rockies where elevation is very high in some places.
So I began to think, is the 0-20 standard for our car's oil the same for Minnesota and High Desert of CA and NV??? Or does the peak temperature difference doesn't matter so much for the RX's engines as it has modern computers figuring stuff out all the time. Does it matter that it never goes below freezing here where as it may go below 0 in some other parts of the country?
This is from the Australian owners manual:
Attachment 489009
If I were in your driving conditions, I'd opt for the 5W-30 oil as cold start issues probably not relevant. But of course, with this heavier oil, the internal losses are greater and your fuel consumption may increase slightly.
The 2010 ES350 has the same engine and calls for 5w30.
Some folks at www.bobistheoilguy.com have followed what they call the Caterham blend of 4 quarts 0w20 and 2.5 quarts 0w40 to end up with a 0w30 blend.
Mobil 1 makes 0w40 and Wal-Mart near me has hit for $23 vs $40 at Advance Auto. Go figure.
I did this blend on the last oil change and it reduced the occurrence of the hot start death rattle. I think the thicker oil stays in place better after shut down. Mileage is the same.
Some folks at www.bobistheoilguy.com have followed what they call the Caterham blend of 4 quarts 0w20 and 2.5 quarts 0w40 to end up with a 0w30 blend.
Mobil 1 makes 0w40 and Wal-Mart near me has hit for $23 vs $40 at Advance Auto. Go figure.
I did this blend on the last oil change and it reduced the occurrence of the hot start death rattle. I think the thicker oil stays in place better after shut down. Mileage is the same.
Intermittent rattle noise at start up that happens with the Toyota 3.5 engine. It has been discussed in many threads around here.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/hyb...up-rx450h.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...t-startup.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/hyb...n-startup.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/hyb...up-rx450h.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...t-startup.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/hyb...n-startup.html
I confirm i have this noise for literally for just one second. I thought it was due to having direct injection or timing chain instead of a belt. And hybrid cars do this a lot because the engine stops and starts quite a bit during driving.
I am beginning to think the move to 0-20 oil was a just a corporate fuel saving move and nothing more.....
I am beginning to think the move to 0-20 oil was a just a corporate fuel saving move and nothing more.....
Meeting the federal fuel mileage standards was the main reason for the switch to 0w20. The extended oil change interval was a benefit of synthetic oil required with 0w20 as they cannot blend a regular dino oil to meet that spec, and it is good marketing to increase service intervals.
Not quite true, there are synthetic blends of 0W-20 and have been for many years. Honda branded 0W-20 is syn blend. And I see that Pennzoil and Motorcraft also have a syn blend 0-20. (This is not an exhaustive list)
In my opinion? No. But I wanted to point out that not all 0w-20 is full synthetic. My owners manual also does not specify full synthetic as far as I know, though that's what should be used if going 10k.
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Grabaman
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