Thermostat change with cooling service?
Ive only had my 2010 for several weeks but I like to PM what I can to improve long term reliability. I’ve alreasy done the oil cooler line replacement, oil, oil filter, air and cabin filters. Next week I’m getting a BG flush on the transmission and with this south Texas heat I like to keep the cooling system at peak shape. My RX only has 61000 miles but I’m going to drain the cooling system and fill with fresh coolant. My question is whether I should go ahead and change the thermostat or not. It’s not difficult but it’s not a simple deal either due to having to remove the idler pulley. I’m tempted to just flush the system and fill since I’m not current having any issues.
I am not a fan of flushing any fluid. Drain and fill is what I would suggest. I also stay away from any sort of additive/flush agent.
Coolant is climbing up in price, but if you dont have any problems with the thermostat, wait till it gives you trouble, Based on its construction, typical problem is that stays partially to totally open. Worst is you replace coolant and in few months the thermostat goes bad and you have to drain again.
Nothing wrong with being proactive, but DIYers need to know what not to overdo. Basically enjoy the ride.
Salim
Coolant is climbing up in price, but if you dont have any problems with the thermostat, wait till it gives you trouble, Based on its construction, typical problem is that stays partially to totally open. Worst is you replace coolant and in few months the thermostat goes bad and you have to drain again.
Nothing wrong with being proactive, but DIYers need to know what not to overdo. Basically enjoy the ride.
Salim
I would not change the thermostat in this case. I'm all for preventative maintenance and killing 2 birds with 1 stone. But in this case, if you had to change the thermostat even 1 day after the coolant flush, you're only losing maybe $50 worth of coolant in the worst case. Or you could just consider it another coolant drain and fill, which is good for the engine and water pump anyway. Very little incentive to spend the extra time and effort, risking the new part being defective (I find parts from the factory tend to be higher quality than what I can buy and have had mechanics echo this sentiment), and all for just a little bit of savings.
Also, not sure if this applies to you but some people in hot areas want to change the tstat to something that runs cooler, for peace of mind. These engines already run pretty cool, I think they're a 180 tstat (my coolant temp stays around 184-186 on Torque app), so nothing to be gained there.
Noticed you didn't mention a brake fluid replacement. You might look into that being in Texas. Unfortunately, it requires Techstream to work the ABS valves to do it "right." I'll stay away from my usual advice of sucking out the reservoir and just replacing that fluid...since folks on here seem very "bring it to the dealer and do it right! Dealer is always right!"
Also, not sure if this applies to you but some people in hot areas want to change the tstat to something that runs cooler, for peace of mind. These engines already run pretty cool, I think they're a 180 tstat (my coolant temp stays around 184-186 on Torque app), so nothing to be gained there.
Noticed you didn't mention a brake fluid replacement. You might look into that being in Texas. Unfortunately, it requires Techstream to work the ABS valves to do it "right." I'll stay away from my usual advice of sucking out the reservoir and just replacing that fluid...since folks on here seem very "bring it to the dealer and do it right! Dealer is always right!"
Last edited by N4TECguy; Jun 4, 2018 at 10:31 AM.
I would not change the thermostat in this case. I'm all for preventative maintenance and killing 2 birds with 1 stone. But in this case, if you had to change the thermostat even 1 day after the coolant flush, you're only losing maybe $50 worth of coolant in the worst case. Or you could just consider it another coolant drain and fill, which is good for the engine and water pump anyway. Very little incentive to spend the extra time and effort, risking the new part being defective (I find parts from the factory tend to be higher quality than what I can buy and have had mechanics echo this sentiment), and all for just a little bit of savings.
Also, not sure if this applies to you but some people in hot areas want to change the tstat to something that runs cooler, for peace of mind. These engines already run pretty cool, I think they're a 180 tstat (my coolant temp stays around 184-186 on Torque app), so nothing to be gained there.
Noticed you didn't mention a brake fluid replacement. You might look into that being in Texas. Unfortunately, it requires Techstream to work the ABS valves to do it "right." I'll stay away from my usual advice of sucking out the reservoir and just replacing that fluid...since folks on here seem very "bring it to the dealer and do it right! Dealer is always right!"
Also, not sure if this applies to you but some people in hot areas want to change the tstat to something that runs cooler, for peace of mind. These engines already run pretty cool, I think they're a 180 tstat (my coolant temp stays around 184-186 on Torque app), so nothing to be gained there.
Noticed you didn't mention a brake fluid replacement. You might look into that being in Texas. Unfortunately, it requires Techstream to work the ABS valves to do it "right." I'll stay away from my usual advice of sucking out the reservoir and just replacing that fluid...since folks on here seem very "bring it to the dealer and do it right! Dealer is always right!"

I'm in the camp that says to do ONLY what the owner's manual says to do. They know the engine design, they have the experience of looking at failure points of millions of cars. Auto shops live or die on volume, and many (hopefully not most) of them will aggressively offer services that don't accomplish much other than to transfer money from your account to theirs.
I can remember instances of car shops pushing "flush" services onto little grey-haired ladies who didn't know a thing about cars. Caveat Emptor.
I can remember instances of car shops pushing "flush" services onto little grey-haired ladies who didn't know a thing about cars. Caveat Emptor.
The thermostat is one of those items that very rarely ever get a mention on this forum. I'm all for proactive maintenance but I personally think it's not an item that needs to be proactively replaced.
All of my personal experience with thermostats is failing in closed mode: can't be driven, and can't fixed on the side of the road until the engine cools down, even if you have the spare and all of the tools. Wherever you were going, you're going to be very late.
Fun question: when you spend $100,000 for a car, and the thermostat is exactly as good or bad as one designed and made in 1920, why doesn't the car have 2 in parallel? This would have the following effects:
1. the response time of supplying colder water to the engine would be shortened (engine temperature more stable)
2. minor differences in sensitivity between individual t-stats wouldn't matter
3. the extra expense is .00 nothing %
4. the odds of both failing are .00 nothing %
Why? Because it costs another $5.00.
Fun question: when you spend $100,000 for a car, and the thermostat is exactly as good or bad as one designed and made in 1920, why doesn't the car have 2 in parallel? This would have the following effects:
1. the response time of supplying colder water to the engine would be shortened (engine temperature more stable)
2. minor differences in sensitivity between individual t-stats wouldn't matter
3. the extra expense is .00 nothing %
4. the odds of both failing are .00 nothing %
Why? Because it costs another $5.00.

Salim
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My experience with tires is that they ALWAYS fail in no-pressure mode. You can buy a truck with dual rear wheels to help you get where you need, and yet you did not spend the money to do so. Failed thermostats are an annoyance but failed tires can mean death, and yet you did not spend the measely $3000 extra to buy a Dual Rear Wheel pickup like me. Do you even care about your family?
And what if they both failed? Why would you ask for just two? Statistically, you have the best safety:cost ratio when you ask for 17 in parallel. Some study I read from MIT proved it.
Again, do you even care about safety?
/Sarcasm (just in case everybody missed it)
Last edited by N4TECguy; Jun 10, 2018 at 01:14 PM.
I would have changed it but it’s not the easiest to do compared to other engines I’ve worked on before. It’s so hot outside never felt like even draining the block. I just drained the gallon or so out of the radiator, removed the overflow and cleaned it and topped it off. I always use additives, either Redline water wetter or Royal Purple. They work best with no glycol but it still drops the temp a few degrees.
Your parallel idea is an interesting one but I think you'd agree it would be very useful only if the failure mode were "closed." The only two times in my driving life a thermostat failed it was stuck in the "open" position, and in that failure mode having a parallel working thermostat wouldn't help. Still, an interesting concept.
I'd leave the t-stat alone. Not saying that OEM t-stats can't fail, but it is a rare issue with cars that are serviced with a normal coolant exchange interval. It is simple enough to monitor your coolant water temp, once you are warmed up. Exceeded temperature threshold will be more observable during longer extended drives for a failed closed thermostat. Failed open situations are more apparent if you happen to be in a region that experiences below freezing temps, warm up time will be very long and mpg will suffer.
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