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How is it going guys? I'm Kevin from Malaysia. First, what a great forum you have here. Glad to be part of this.
Bought a 2010 3rd generation RX350 about 10 months back, and recently noticed there is something strange with the way it shifts its gears.
At low throttle ( about 10-20 % typically in traffic ), it goes through gear 1-2-3 fine. Then while entering gear 4, the RPM drops as usual. But then in a split second, the RPM blips up by 100-200 RPM, then it drops again to the RPM before the blip. You can feel a very mild jerk if you are paying attention. I don't remember it doing that before, but it could be because i wasn't paying attention.
While looking at this forum, i found some information about shift flare with the U660 - 2GR-FE drivetrain. From my understanding, the flare happens before the RPM comes down/before the shift, ie: when the torque converter unlocks. Mine happens after the RPM comes down.
The rest of the time, and at higher throttle, it shifts perfectly.
Drained and filled with Toyota WS twice. Level set when ATF temp at 40degC, done by Lexus Malaysia. Car has about 80000miles.
Has anybody seen such a behavior from this drivetrain before?
Sorry if my English aint great. It is my 2nd-3rd language.
I disconnected the battery terminals for 20 minutes before. It shifted harsher initially, but the flare/blip is still there.
No harm trying again. This time with a scanner. I am curious however, as to the difference between doing it with a scanner vs disconnecting the battery.
I disconnected the battery terminals for 20 minutes before. It shifted harsher initially, but the flare/blip is still there.
No harm trying again. This time with a scanner. I am curious however, as to the difference between doing it with a scanner vs disconnecting the battery.
no real difference as far as i know. just that with a scanner you can see if there are any codes in the system first.
If you decide to disconnect the battery I have an important tip for you. Most vehicles from 1996 and newer have a keep alive memory built-in to the computer system.Disconnecting the battery alone will not reset the check engine light. The computer will be able to hold the memory and the code for several minutes and in some cases several hours.
They supply battery voltage through a capacitor keeping the internal memory alive. The way around this is to disconnect the battery and then hold down on the horn button for at least 30 seconds. The horn circuit is one of only a few that’s hot at all times, regardless of key position.
This is why you can blow the horn without having the ignition turned on. Holding down on the horn button drains the electrical current stored in the control module.
Using the horn circuit resets the check engine light and all memory related functions on most models.
Remember, when you do this you’ll be erasing all memory learned by the computer on previous drive cycles along with radio stations, clocks, seat memory and collected driver information center data like average fuel economy.Therefore, when you reconnect the battery and confirm the reset procedure, you’ll find the engine idle erratic for several drive cycles. The transmission shifts can also feel different from the last time you drove it. This is because the shift point data is gone along with the check engine light code.
This problem is short-term and will correct itself after driving the car at highway speeds. Also note if the check engine light comes back on after this reset procedure you have a hard failure code. This is when a malfunction is constant and needs further diagnosis.So to review you do have a few options for resetting your check engine light, but the easiest way is to use an auto scan tool. To the left is one of the cheaper Bluetooth scanners on the market.
The 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII scanner for Android devices works great, but you have to get an app from the play store to make it work. I think the best one is called Torque Pro and it’s $5. The tool communicates with all OBD II protocols from 1996-2016.Any of these methods are much better then disconnecting the car battery. Using the automotive scanner tool will avoid all the above-mentioned problems. If you’re interested in a scan tool that can do more, visit the automotive scan tool reviewspage.
Changed the filter and drained/filled again with Toyota WS today. Cleared the transmission memory.
The gear change seems smoother, but the blip is still there. The blip seem a bit worse but could be my imagination
Any ideas?
Could it be a sign that the transmission is on its way out?
Nothing in the filter. No chunks of failed friction material. Nothing major on the magnet too. ATF was quite dark. But still pinkish as you can see on the sides of the opaque container. No burnt smell.
and you are certain the fluid level is correct? these sealed units are highly sensitive to the fluid level being just right. if the level is good, then maybe ask your dealer to reflash the ecm..sounds like no mechanical malfunction if the filter was clear, and no chunks or anything at the bottom of the pan.
i) Upon bolting the pan back in place. Fill up with ATF WS
ii) Start engine. Run through the gears. P - D - N - R several times
iii) Shut down engine. Let it cool until the ATF Temperature falls to 43degC ( approx 109 F )
iv) Start engine.
v) Open the overflow plug until the flow becomes a trickle.
vi) Close and torque up overflow plug.
I will put in 1/2 quart later, let it cool down to 40 degC, and try step iv to vi again. Is it a good idea to add an extra 200ml or so after getting the level right? As in overfill it very slightly.
Checked with the dealer today, apparently they don't have any new file to flash. The best they can do is clear the memory, which i believe can be done with the battery disconnect + horn method above.
dont add any more fluid! it sounds like it was checked the way it was supposed to be.and adding more could cause more problems. let them try clearing it with theyre tech stream. who knows...maybe you will get lucky? but before you have them do it, take a ride with a technician and see what they think.
Lexus114, took your advice of not adding 200ml, but decided to recheck the level.
I filled 1/2 quart this morning, idled the car until the dash shows D ( did the wire shorting and gear dance since im at home and not keen to send it to the shop ), then opened the overflow plug. About 0.8 quart came out before it slowed to a trickle.
Which means either the shop overfilled it, or i messed it up and it is now underfilled by 0.3 quart. Very strange.
Are we splitting hairs here? For a start, "a trickle" seems like a vague term. It gushes out initially, then slows down. Once it started to slow down with some breaks in the flow, that's when i screwed the overflow back. Do i have to wait till it starts dripping?
I took it for a drive, and this is the smoothest it has ever shifted. Almost imperceptible. I can't tell the shift has happen until i look at the tach. The blip is still there but doesnt happen as often, and 50-100rpm only, as opposed to every shift cycle and 100-300rpm. Hope its not the calm before the storm, and the next thing i know, $2200 for a rebuild box. That would be a very bad day.
Still does it occasionally, and i'm thinking could it be caused by "Flex Torque Converter Lockup" + possibly a worn TCC.
It does it at low throttle position, at low speeds and only at gear 3-4. The signal to the TCC solenoid fluctuates to give a duty cycle, similar to what i am seeing on tach. On top of the blip, sometimes it dances up and down several times (50-100rpm range ).
The things auto manufacturers do to gain an extra 0.2mpg, at the expense of a $1000 TC rebuild down the road.
Lexus114, took your advice of not adding 200ml, but decided to recheck the level.
I filled 1/2 quart this morning, idled the car until the dash shows D ( did the wire shorting and gear dance since im at home and not keen to send it to the shop ), then opened the overflow plug. About 0.8 quart came out before it slowed to a trickle.
Which means either the shop overfilled it, or i messed it up and it is now underfilled by 0.3 quart. Very strange.
Are we splitting hairs here? For a start, "a trickle" seems like a vague term. It gushes out initially, then slows down. Once it started to slow down with some breaks in the flow, that's when i screwed the overflow back. Do i have to wait till it starts dripping?
I took it for a drive, and this is the smoothest it has ever shifted. Almost imperceptible. I can't tell the shift has happen until i look at the tach. The blip is still there but doesnt happen as often, and 50-100rpm only, as opposed to every shift cycle and 100-300rpm. Hope its not the calm before the storm, and the next thing i know, $2200 for a rebuild box. That would be a very bad day.
from what i understand, right after it gushes out of the drain plug. it goes to a weird slanted drip. thats when you cap it.
Good method. Will take note. I remember reading a procedure from toyota to let it flow out until it drips. But the extra volume drained between a slow slanted trickle until it drips, my guess would be 30-40ml, not too much.
My observation after 3 days of driving with the right level.
i) Almost imperceptible gear changes. Out of 10, i can't feel 8. Quicker gear changes too
ii) At low throttle, small RPM blips after entering gear 4 is still there but much less frequent. At times it would dance ( sinusodially about 50RPM for 0.5 - 1 second ) around the new RPM after the shift. Honestly not sure what could be causing this.
iii) Much less to almost no tire squeal when turning hard on some concrete pavement. Front differential finally working as it should?
iv) If i slow down to say 10mph and get back on the accelerator, the RPM jumps up for about 1 second with no power to the wheels, before it shifts to a higher gear. There is a 10page thread about this issue here. Anybody found a fix yet? Any 3rd party gearbox "remaps"? I had shift issues on my DSG equipped car before, fixed with an aftermarket gearbox remap. Wonder if that can be done on a Lexus.
well from the way it sounds you are just about at a normal shift pattern. maybe just let it be for now. seems to me like you may have some sort of a software glitch. so if its almost to where it should be...that may be the best you will get.
04-25-17, 06:06 AM
Interesting Shifting Behavior
If you decide to disconnect the battery I have an important tip for you. Most vehicles from 1996 and newer have a keep alive memory built-in to the computer system.Disconnecting the battery alone will not reset the check engine light. The computer will be able to hold the memory and the code for several minutes and in some cases several hours.
