Warm up time
Do you start-up and go?
Do you let it idle for about a few seconds, a minute, or until the needle goes to "C" on the temperature gauge before driving off?
Just wondering what you do.
Thanks!
Last edited by Clutchless; Oct 20, 2016 at 10:08 AM.
I used to have a neighbor that no matter what the outside temp was, she would immediately hit about 5000 RPM on startup, before letting it drop back to idle. It was painful to hear every morning.
Last edited by User 41924; Oct 20, 2016 at 10:30 AM.
I used to have a neighbor that no matter what the outside temp was, she would immediately hit about 5000 RPM on startup, before letting it drop back to idle. It was painful to hear every morning.
This I never understood, I have a neighbor that does the same thing and then speeds away like a nut.
If the car starts well, all instruments show proper readings, and there are no warning lights, you are good to go. As most have said, however, it is NOT a good idea to rip off a burnout until the car is up to full operating temp. Cold tires don't grip very well, and your tran's fluid stays cold/cool until the water temp comes up. Drive sensibly, and there is no need to warm up the car.
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I am pretty sure the oil gets up to pressure in a few seconds because my other vehicle is a hybrid, an HS250h (Camry engine) and that motor restarts while you are driving and appears to engage almost instantaneously. Toyota/Lexus manuals advise there is software that prevents the motor from engaging the drivetrain until oil pressure has built up, well it must build up really fast considering the way it acts. My prior hybrid, a CT200h (Prius engine) acted the same way.
As for various oils in colder climates, you generally want to vary the first number (reduce) in the Xw-## oil weight format... not the second. The first number indicates the oil's viscosity (thickness, or, propensity to flow) when the oil is at ambient temperatures. The second is the oil's viscosity at operating temperatures, and is therefore the true "design" viscosity for your engine. Lower viscosity oils flow more easily, but can also offer a reduced "film layer" of oil between contact surfaces, and that can be OK as long as those surfaces don;t see excessive forces cause them to push past the film layer and end up with direct hard metal-on-metal contact with no lubricating film layer between because THAT is when you get premature wear. That said, I am always a proponent for using an oil (synthetic) with as low a number as possible to ensure that the oil flows to where it is supposed to as quickly as possible when the engine is cold (i.e. 0w30 or 5w30 as compared to a 10w30 oil). However, to reduce the second number from a 30 to a 20 is to have a thinner oil running at operating temperatures, and you can end up with premature internal wear because of what I described above.
NOTE on 10/25/16: The remaining two paragraphs of my initial comments have been removed as they do not pertain to the core purpose of this thread, and were in no way helpful for anyone..
Last edited by F250; Oct 25, 2016 at 06:05 AM.
I am pretty sure the oil gets up to pressure in a few seconds because my other vehicle is a hybrid, an HS250h (Camry engine) and that motor restarts while you are driving and appears to engage almost instantaneously. Toyota/Lexus manuals advise there is software that prevents the motor from engaging the drivetrain until oil pressure has built up, well it must build up really fast considering the way it acts. My prior hybrid, a CT200h (Prius engine) acted the same way.
My RX is garaged and the garage temp is about 10-15d F above the colder outdoor temps. (currently about 35- 45...soon to be in the low teens! )
You stated, " The previous post would suggest that anything since the old manual choke days is "modern". No such thing was ever suggested. I described the time frame where the idea of warming up an engine came from, not where the idea ended, or where the idea of "modern" came from. Also, we are not discussing whether or not vehicles "15-25 years old", would be considered "modern", or need a warm up time. We are talking about what the OP asked about, a specific type of vehicle, the RX350, and the general feeling about warming up a vehicle of similar age...not 15-25 years old, and not turbo-diesel engines. I will restate what I know to be a fact...there is no reason for an extended warm up of the RX350, or any similar vehicle.
Your first two paragraphs were enlightening. Your knowledge was obvious, and impressive. In the final two paragraphs, your arrogance was equally obvious, and not at all impressive. I do not know why you felt a need to trash my input, which was absolutely correct as it pertained to the original post.
Thank you for your response, and I appreciate your straight forward and gracious, yet firm, manner. Today is obviously my day for "crow" and "shoe leather" to be a part of my diet (I had a small initial snack of it served by my wife before leaving the house this morning!)..
You stated, " The previous post would suggest that anything since the old manual choke days is "modern". No such thing was ever suggested. I described the time frame where the idea of warming up an engine came from, not where the idea ended, or where the idea of "modern" came from. Also, we are not discussing whether or not vehicles "15-25 years old", would be considered "modern", or need a warm up time. We are talking about what the OP asked about, a specific type of vehicle, the RX350, and the general feeling about warming up a vehicle of similar age...not 15-25 years old, and not turbo-diesel engines. I will restate what I know to be a fact...there is no reason for an extended warm up of the RX350, or any similar vehicle.
I must say again to you, 11bravo, and any and all others who may have been put off by my post above, I sincerely apologize and will try to keep my input more in tune with the primary issue at hand. I have also now edited my comments above and removed the unnecessary information which did not address the OP's inquiry.
Last edited by F250; Oct 25, 2016 at 10:40 AM.








