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Check Engine Light, Reverse Camera Won't Engage

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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 06:59 AM
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Exclamation Check Engine Light, Reverse Camera Won't Engage

Hi everyone,

I got in my car this morning to drop my sister off to school and when I put the RX in reverse nothing happened for a second or two and then all of a sudden it jerked back. I continued to reverse off the driveway thinking what the heck just happened. When I put the car in drive the reverse camera stayed on as I drove off. When I noticed this, I pulled over to the side and put the RX back in park and turned it off. I then turned it back on and the area on the dash that shows what gear your in, never turned on. My sister was getting late so I dropped her off and came home. I turned the car off and waited 30 seconds before turning it back on. This time the reverse camera didn't engage in reverse and the small screen that displays what gear your in, displayed no image. Then a few seconds after that, the check engine light came on and so did the symbol of a car and squiggly lines under it. Im guessing that's for stabilatrac. My RX350 is a 2010, and has just under 85k on the odo. Has this happened to anyone on the forums before? I plan to take it to the dealer but because my other car has a flat tire I need to get that taken care of first. Can anyone make a guess as to what could have happened? I know without getting the error codes read it's hard to tell but I just wanted to ask anyways.

Thanks,

Sevn86
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 09:50 AM
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Forgot to post an update, since no one on the forums commented with any help. Im guessing no one has had this issue before. Anyways I took my car into the dealer like i said i would, and they ran many test and even called Lexus for help. It turned out to be a not so common fuse that blew out. This cost me $347.00 so im just going mention that if you happen to have high powered reverse LED lighs like me, you could be next. Dont take it to Lexus unless you have warranty and just check your fuse box first. Didnt know a fuse could cause so much to malfunction, I thought something else had happened.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 09:58 AM
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Thanks for updating. Sorry to hear about the problems and the cost of the fix but maybe this will save someone else down the road.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 01:06 PM
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$347 for a fuse? How much is that on diagnosing the problem? A fuse should cost around $10 or less.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by LeoDLion
$347 for a fuse? How much is that on diagnosing the problem? A fuse should cost around $10 or less.
Some of the higher amp fuses are built into copper bus bars. These cost several hundred dollars.

Edit: I take back what I said above. The reverse are all run off a 7.5amp fuse, so it is likely lots of diagnostic time for just that fuse. Doing some more research...

Edit 2: Yep, the 7.5 BK/UP LP fuse runs the gear selector to the ECM and the reverse lights (along with a host of other things). That was an expensive fuse!

Last edited by CARspec; Dec 12, 2014 at 02:47 PM.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by CARspec
Some of the higher amp fuses are built into copper bus bars. These cost several hundred dollars.
I agree I have seen buss bar fuses that cost hundreds but not in a vehicle.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by drewcam888
I agree I have seen buss bar fuses that cost hundreds but not in a vehicle.
I'm not above admitting I melted one down on a Camry a few years back trying to jump a relay. It was the alternator fuse (140amps?) I think. Very expensive. They aren't a common failure, but when you blow one you'll know by the mushroom cloud.

An example: Part 82620-30170 - $127 list.

Last edited by CARspec; Dec 12, 2014 at 03:03 PM.
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 08:03 AM
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Well the invoice should show definitely how much was for labor and how much for part.

When I read the OPs first post I was thinking of the fuse. That is the first thing to check and does not take that much time and effort. Just get a trouble light, bend a bit and put on your reading glasses (for me, remove my glasses to see up close).
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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 05:09 AM
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A fuse was my 2nd thought, but the 1st was the circuitry somewhere between the gear selector and the computers connecting it all as these cars are pretty much drive by wire for almost everything. The days of connecting rods and cables are pretty much history. Electronics are more reliable but also more costly when they fail. And if you could weigh the savings in lbs, the car is certainly much lighter with all the mechanical devices being replaced with a few wires and chips.

Glad to hear what the gremlin was and you've got it fixed now.
Originally Posted by LeoDLion
Well the invoice should show definitely how much was for labor and how much for part.

When I read the OPs first post I was thinking of the fuse. That is the first thing to check and does not take that much time and effort. Just get a trouble light, bend a bit and put on your reading glasses (for me, remove my glasses to see up close).
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