I do my own oil changes on my 2011 RX350. I was wondering if anyone else experienced the same problem. I can never unscrew the oil filter housing cap to drain the oil from the housing before I unscrew the housing from the engine block. Because the drain cap is too tight, when I tried to unscrew the drain cap, I actually unscrew the whole oil filter housing. As a result, I never bothered with removing the cap. I just unscrew the housing (a little messy with oil coming out); remove the old filter; pour out the old oil from the housing; reinstall the new filter into the housing; and then screw on the housing. With the housing removed, I tried to hold the housing with a normal oil filter wrench and unscrew the cap without success.....almost broke the filter wrench....so I gave up....

 

the next time you have it off, spray it real good with penetrating oil. let it soak for a while. and then try to take it off. somewhere along the line it was overtightened.

 

Same here... and like many others, I bought a replacement oil filter housing. They're not that expensive. I got a Dorman brand for about $23.

On my next oil change, I'm going to use an impact driver, AFTER the oil filter housing is removed, to see if I can remove that oil filter drain cap. And if it breaks, I will use my backup Dorman.

 

When putting the drain cap back on it only needs a little torque to seal the gasket.

 

I did not have any problem removing the oil drain cap.

But I have a criticism on the whole oil filter design of the RX350 Lexus. What is with this design? I have an Subaru Outback. The oil filter is located on top of the engine. What an easy task to remove the oil filter without going under the car! And what is this oil filter housing and all that crap in there? Lexus, scrap that design and use a simple easy method that most car manufacturer use.

 

This has been worked over in other threads, but hold it right there. Don't bother to remove the cap and don't try to force it, by clamping the housing, you have an excellent chance to break the housing. Leave it right there, it has no other function than to drain the oil in the housing. Use an Allen socket on an extension and torque the cap and housing as a unit to 25Nm. It will be fine. Buy the special wrench from a spare parts or online as a back-up, because the cap has the uncanny way of unscrewing first at the third or at whatever time, spoiling your day if you can't unscrew the housing.

 

Agree. there's really no need to remove that little drain cap. Just extra work that's not needed.

 

same here. I tried at 5k, no luck of turning. 10k done at the dealer, not sure if they make it. last weekend, changed the oil with 15k, still not a move. Looks like it will be skipped forever.

 

Same here not to remove it,But I change filter q 10 k miles,change oil only q5 k miles with any 0w-20 on sale.
And check oil level and all fluids at least 1-2 x a month since wife use it everyday.

 

I had similar issues mentioned in this message string. Solved the problem by only "finger tightening" the "silver dollar" sized piece at the bottom of the housing. In subsequent oil changes, I have no problem removing it with just a light turn with a 3/8" rachet. But, one word of caution, make sure you dip the replacement "o" ring in oil before you reinstall the piece. I realize there is a torque rating for tightening the piece, but once I feel "metal on metal", I feel comfortable that the piece is install correctly and will stay put until my next oil change.

 

Torque settings are worked out by the factory, taking a lot of factors into account like metal strength, sealing surfaces etc. I once had a Moto Guzzi 850 Le Mans m/cycle with an engine which can at any day be displayed in the Louvre for its sheer beauty. To keep all things fine, I lowered the factory spec torque on the tappet cover bolts, but it had about the opposite effect of what I desired. It not only worked loose and allowed the gaskets to start a heavy oil sweat, the vibration of the loose bolts, damaged the threads in the aluminium heads.
Long story short, stick to the factory torque, you don't want to see your oil warning light appearing with the brightness of a nuclear detonation, along with a trail of oil behind you.

 

hate to necro an old thread...

but there's a *BIG* difference between a valve cover and an oil filter drain cover. the valve cover is subjected to lots of vibration, the oil filter housing, not so much. non-cartridge oil filters are routinely hand tightened without incident.

anyhow...

over several oil changes, i've torqued the drain cover to oem torque specs and at every oil change, it's seized on. turning the drain cover always ends up working the entire oil filter housing loose.

to remove the drain cover, you can put the entire oil filter housing in a vise once it's removed. there's two flat spots in the threads. make sure those flat areas are the sides in contact with your vise. i usually wrap it in a shop towel so it's not scratched. and don't over-tighten your vise -- just tight enough to hold it in place. then you can work that drain cover off. the housing is made of aluminum, so be careful since it's softer metal.