Wgregt - Yes, it looks like you do NOT have the harness. The harness will connect to that connector you are seeing. Normally there would be a cap over the connector. You should see pins in those connector holes.

 

Went to the dealer. Had no idea about the missing cap. Everyone else here have one but me? Seems like a good idea to keep water etc out of the pin holes. Part number, anyone, since Lexus dealer couldn't find one? I'd love to find one if I could.

 

Those caps are pretty standard across Toyota, Lexus and probably most other makes as hitch connections are pretty standard. I would try a trailer hitch shop.

 

Look closer at the connector. It looks to me like that the cap is there, but it is hard to tell from the picture. I know I made the mistake and starting pulling out each individual little rubber cylinder with a pick only to realize it was a cap that came off. Just take a second look, might be the case.

 

I agree now. I think that gray thing is the cap for the 4 plug harness connector.

 

I'll get under there once the hitch gets here and post back up with what I find.

 

Hey gang: With Curt hitch # 13143, are the supplied bolts long enough to allow me to reinstall the tow hooks on each side? Or do I need to get new bolts to do this?

 

The new bolts provided are longer than the OEM to allow for hitch and reinstall tow loops.

 

I just did that install a few days ago and elected to reinstall the tow hooks, as it is an option. Glad I did.

 

Cool. Thanks, peoples!

 

I just got my RX350 and it had a Draw-Tite hitch installed. The last owner cut most off the bottom splash shield and the hitch was rusty. I ordered a new Curt C13143 hitch,Wiring harness for vehicle with tow prep and bottom splash guard for under $300.00
Trust me the Curt hitch is worth the cost to replace the Draw-Tite in how it fits and no need to butcher the Slash guard to make it fit.

The way the hitch tube bends up make it seem like I had to cut the guard on top the side more than I should but it fits just right when you look at it at a different angle that I could not do with my camera.

The next time I have to remove the splash shield I will sand all the cut edges smooth but those are closeups are with a flash so you cannot see that it real life.

The width of the cut for the hitch is narrower than what is stated on the instructions. I think it looks better as the gap is smaller and making a small hole on the left side locks the wiring harness going to the flat 4 pin connector in place to prevent movement.

Just trying to help those that are thinking of installing a hitch


Side cut to clear hitch tube going up at an angle

Receiver cutout with half round cutout for wiring harness

Fastening wire harness to top of hitch

Receiver splash panel cutout

Receiver splash panel cutout

Side cut to clear hitch tube going up at an angle. The top could be cut a little tighter but at another view it looks fine

Bottom view of receiver cutout

Wire harness locked in by half moon cutout. Marks on receiver tube will just buff out.

 

You are correct sir. It was the cap on there.

 

I also put one of these on mine. I keep a $20 in there and a spare set of keys for the car and house. Works well.

http://hitchsafe.com/

 

Hmmm............. So if they want to steal your hitch cap, they get your keys and money, too?

 

No. The rubber cap is just...a rubber cap. The safe is....a safe. With a 4 digit combo that I pick. It locks into the hitch hole with locking pins. The safe itself is a tray that slides out. The safe combo dial is covered with a tight weatherproof rubber cap that hides the combo face etc. Looking at it in traffic, all you see is the rubber cap.