So today was the start of making some adjustments to my 2011 RX 350. A while back I installed a new head unit and for the most part, it has made a big difference in the functionality of the vehicle. But have had a couple problems. The worst, for me that is, was the cd changer broke. Stopped reporting I had any CD's loaded and unable to remove the ones that were in it at the time. Fully loaded, as I was using it for a vacation trip. Second issue was the backup camera stopped reporting through the head unit, though working fine on the rear view mirror. Third issue, line noise. Everything sounds fine from Radio, (CD when it worked) and Satellite. But use the head unit, whining noise. I am the only one allowed to whine in that car! LOL

So today I began the work. I have a backup camera that I can route to give it a dedicated connection rather than splicing into the existing. But taking everything apart, I have noted a wire for backup camera that looks for the power when backing up. I didn't use it before, because it was working without. So will be messing with that before I put in another camera. For the line noise, I have some ferrite cores and a RCA type of line noise cleaner that should work on the AUX line. But my first annoyance was the CD-Changer. Found out nobody has posted how to get access inside the body of the CD Changer. So had to figure it out. First, we have to separate the radio from the front bezel. I am going to post a few pics, because I couldn't find anything on the web about it.

To remove the front cover, you remove four screws holding the plastic bezel to the radio unit itself. Then there are four snap connectors, see pics. The bottom corner is rather obvious, but it will keep snapping back as you try to get the top two. They are located to both sides of the emergency flasher switch. Less than an inch to each side. You need a real flat long tool. I have a metal splunger I use on computers. You need real thin to slide under the plastic, then it needs to be metal as you have to put pressure to lift. At the same time, pull on the cover to remove. Takes time but I think I can do it pretty fast if needed now. There is one ribbon cable with a flip type connector from the radio to the front panel and an insert only connector. So don't drop or pull too fast, as you want to disconnect the ribbon cable neatly.

Unfortunately, when I opened the CD changer I found a spring loose and plastic piece that I could not figure how it was supposed to sit in the unit. Had to remove the top of the unit and I was able to rescue the CD's. Now I have ordered a replacement unit and it will be here next week. Not cheap, and I think I won't be using the CD Changer, just one CD at a time. Problem with a replacement unit is that my Satellite unit identity will need to be updated. Btw, the new head unit has never displayed any OEM Satellite radio information, so had to do presets with another radio synced to channels so I could match up. Annoying, but minor overall.

Bezel with board removed from radio.

Here is what was floating in the CD changer



[img alt="Two main connectors for the bezel to the radio in the bottom rear. They kept snapping back in place as I worked on the other two connectors.
"]https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.clublexus.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/20250102_182347_01a8ff5aa7646ddd4f9790304e4ea25734c7cd0c.jpg[/img]
Two main connectors for the bezel to the radio in the bottom rear. They kept snapping back in place as I worked on the other two connectors.
[img alt="Here are the other two. First you remove four screws holding the plastic bezel to the radio. Then the two connectors in the prior photo. These two are a real pain. In the picture, I had removed the emergency switch and the drivers side vents. I have the radio also removed at this point. So along the top of the CD changer, under the vents there are two connectors. They are tight and need a bit of lift to get over the snap on the radio itself.
"]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.clublexus.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/20250102_182343_912c235243284d7d0e0bec0fc6c840df1fa7ef73.jpg[/img]
Here are the other two. First you remove four screws holding the plastic bezel to the radio. Then the two connectors in the prior photo. These two are a real pain. In the picture, I had removed the emergency switch and the drivers side vents. I have the radio also removed at this point. So along the top of the CD changer, under the vents there are two connectors. They are tight and need a bit of lift to get over the snap on the radio itself.

 

 

I certainly sympathize with you as I had to figure out how to repair the 42-year-old idler wheel assembly in my vintage home audio system's Onkyo cassette deck during the recent holidays. I found an online cassette tape deck forum, described my issue, and the experienced members there provided me with specific instructions on how to fix it and even included a couple of photos to guide me. You may want to type "automotive CD changer repair forum" into Google and see if you get as lucky as I did.

 

Thanks for the suggestion RX in NC. I was able to order a replacement unit and it will be here in the next week. I put the old unit back in for now. The replacement unit also appears to have a nicer condition bezel. I had found that this car had some spillage during a prior owners possession. I did a LOT of cleaning up hidden areas of the carpet under the center console, but there was also spray that stained the original. So was going to eventually replace as I couldn't buff it out. I read about someone who wanted to remove the bezel to see if they could make a wood one. That would be awesome, but beyond my time and effort abilities so far.

I did find out the backup camera does broadcast upon going into reverse and then stays broadcasting for a couple minutes before shutting down. The image is rather grainy, so I am going to supplement it with the one I purchased, thus two backup cameras. The new one will go the head unit, the old one will remain to the small screen on the rearview mirror. I will have to take apart the inside trim of the hatch and find a place to run the wire outside. Might require a small drill hole and a rubber grommet, but won't know until I take it apart. I am chasing down some wiring. Want to run a wire for the headunit camera connection, have to figure out a junction point where I can tap into power upon reverse. Think that will trigger the head unit switching to the camera unit automatically. Need to test it out. I also tried to find where I am getting the line noise. I did a line noise reducing unit on the microphone, but that didn't fix it. The radio, SAT etc, factory all play nice with no noise. The AUX from an IPAD plugged in USB plays nice also. But from the head unit itself, the noise is noticeable, but since I took it all apart is less pronounced. So the search continues. Car is driveable with the panels removed and/or open. With the arrival of cold weather my work will slow down on it. But not in a rush as I usually work from home or travel via plane. So car can sit. I like the challenges.

Btw, I also replaced most of the interior lights with LED. The cabin at night gets very bright and looks great. So recommend that.