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The most hated B1479 code attack again

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Old Jul 25, 2023 | 11:21 AM
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Default The most hated B1479 code attack again

Hi community! I'm busting my head with this problem. When you start the ac its blow fine for probably 10 to 15 minutes then suddenly stop blowing cold and the b1479 current code pops up. I was reading the sensor on the scanner and the weird thing is that Its always at 4.36v with ac off or on it just stay the same and not fluctuating up or down, I changed the sensor and still the same . I noticed that the fans stop working when the ac start to blow hot or simple not blowing cold more but I think I saw the ac compressor clutch still engaged and this start to getting to my head and confusing me . I need advice help or guide to solve this problem.. why the sensor stays reading 4.36 on or off and why the ac condenser fan stop working until I restart the ac again and the cicle goes on and on
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Old Jul 25, 2023 | 02:22 PM
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Welcome to CL. Please review the thread that is a few below yours on the main page and is titled:
DTC 1479 cheap solution: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...-solution.html

Look at post 88 onward.

Last edited by Clutchless; Jul 26, 2023 at 04:37 AM.
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Old Jul 26, 2023 | 04:22 AM
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^^ What he said. The magnet trick described in this thread has saved many owners thousands of dollars during the past few years. Placing a magnet at the right spot on the compressor should always be the first thing to try whenever the infamous B1479 OBDII code shows up.
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Old Jul 27, 2023 | 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Clutchless
Welcome to CL. Please review the thread that is a few below yours on the main page and is titled:
DTC 1479 cheap solution: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...-solution.html

Look at post 88 onward.
Thanks for answering but I don't think this will apply to my case . In my situation now I understand that is a dummy flow sensor that's why is stuck in 4.36 v and won't move . What el could be?
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Old Jul 27, 2023 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Anthony787
Thanks for answering but I don't think this will apply to my case . In my situation now I understand that is a dummy flow sensor that's why is stuck in 4.36 v and won't move . What el could be?
Did you get an OEM sensor from Toyota?
My first guess would be a bad sensor or a bad connection. You replaced the sensor so you reseated the sensor connector, maybe next try to reseat the other end of the cable? The end that connects to the computer? Check to make sure the connector has no corrosion on it and see what happens. If it still reads the same then the problem may be your computer input. Maybe the sensor is sending the correct signal, but the computer's input is shorted and it reads wrong.
Good luck.
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Old Jul 30, 2023 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Non
Did you get an OEM sensor from Toyota?
My first guess would be a bad sensor or a bad connection. You replaced the sensor so you reseated the sensor connector, maybe next try to reseat the other end of the cable? The end that connects to the computer? Check to make sure the connector has no corrosion on it and see what happens. If it still reads the same then the problem may be your computer input. Maybe the sensor is sending the correct signal, but the computer's input is shorted and it reads wrong.
Good luck.
Thanks for your reply. I saw a video where a guy explained that those dummy sensors read like that to make the computer believe there is enough flow in the system. What I've noticed is the engine bay being a volcano. The fans doesn't seem to dissipate the heat enough. The ac condenser fans stops blowing air for minutes and then starts again but I don't believe they are cooling the system enough. I wonder if a problem with the coolant system like the water pump or the thermostat are not working right causing the engine to be more hot than supposed to due to poor coolant circulation. I put a laser temperature pistol to the top hose of the radiator and reads 163 f and the bottom on reads 159 f when the bottom one should be cool enough to the touch or at least way more cooler that the other one .
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