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Hey all - hoping someone might have a tip to pass on that can help me out of a jam, I'm replacing the rear shocks on my 2013 RX350 (AWD) and the lower bolt on the passenger side is spinning in the bushing but won't come out.
It's not seized - you can spin it with an impact, but it won't come out after removing the nut.
I've tried pulling it out by the head with vice grips, tapping it with an extension (with nut on bolt), prying on it but I can't get much grip as it won't back out enough to get something under the head of the bolt.
I don't have another bolt so I'm trying to do this without cutting the bolt off -
I know these bolts can cause problems but I've never had one spin like this -
Try heating it up after spraying it a lot with PB Blaster. Then hitting it with a punch to try and push it out as you did already. Take all weight off of the shock when you do this.
However you may end up cutting it and getting a replacement bolt. You can take your other shock bolt to an auto parts store or Home Depot etc and match it up. Make sure the marks on the head are the same so the new one is the same strength rating. Or get one from Lexus or a Toyota dealer. It will be the same as for a 2014 Highlander.
The shank of the bolt is seized in the metal collar of the bushing, common problem on these and any Toyota/Lexus other cars. It's not going to come out, I tried everything and wasted an hour. You'll have to chop the bolt off on both sides and try to save the bracket. One side came off, other had to be cut off. Bolt size is M12-1.25 x 76mm, washer size is 25.4mm / 1" and 3mm thick. Bolt grade is 10.9.
Thanks for the replies -
I hit it with a lot of PB blaster and will try again on the weekend.
It's not seized - it will spin but won't come out of the collar - I had it move about 1/8" inch but then it locked up again.
I'm going to see if I can move it a bit more and maybe get a pry bar under the bolt head and pry while running the impact wrench -
Will also try punching it out - but
This is an easy job unless you run into rusted bolts in collars -
And thanks for the bolt measurements - I'll pick up a couple if I decide to cut the bolt.
Mine moved a bit too but then stopped, I think the bolt had a "rust taper" that locked it in place, it was higher up and rustier near the head of the bolt. Even my air chisel at full blast couldn't get it out with a combination of MAP gas and penetrating fluid. If only they put a little bit of anti-seize there from the factory and it would never have happened!
Do not cut it off as the problem is the bolt is failing to come out. Once you cut the head you will not have any head-shoulder to use as a point to force it out.
As suggested free the other end so that the binding is reduced on the bolt.
Use a punch to punch to push the bolt out from the nut-side end. Use the biggest hammer you have that you can swing in there. [under size hammer end up deforming the bolt end]. You can put the nut back on [atleast 3 threads] and skip the punch. A movement of 4 mm will be plenty to create room on the bolt head side to pry it out.
Next is to use a blunt chisel to push off the head of the bolt. You may have to use a sharp chisel to make some room between the bolt head and mounting.
If you think you have better access to push the bolt through from the head side and enough clearance on the nut end for the bolt to come through [length of the bolt], only then think about cutting the head of the bolt.
I had to cut mine out on both sides. I also had to replace the upper mount on one side as the bolt and mount had rusted together. My local toyota dealer had the bolts and mount available to pick up in the parts dept, so I figured this was a common issue for them too.
G
Getings. I also cut off the head of the bolt and pulled it out slightly at an angle from the bottom bracket. the problem is that the area of the bushing and bolt is where it rusted inside. Pretty big. I cut the shock absorber and then the upper bushing. to save the bolt. If your metal sleeve rotates with the bottom bolt. I do not think that you will unscrew or knock it out. I did in a vice and heated . them cut the sleeve apart., On bottom will not work, cut it and buy a new one. Pic from forum and my
Thanks for all the replies - appreciated and helpful.
Well I got the bolt out - took 3 hrs this morning using a club hammer tapping the nut side (with the nut on) - finally worked it out far enough to get a pry bar under the bolt head and worked it out by turning and prying at the same time - but it was painfully slow.
Now I have a bigger problem.
When putting the upper mount back on the 3 studs, I damaged the threads on the top one and now I can't get the nut to thread on - 2 or 3 turns and then it just free spins without threading.
I have no idea how to get that stud out to replace - assuming I can find the stud.
I have it back together with just the 2 nuts holding the upper mount to the panel - that probably is not safe and I need to deal with this.
I was thinking about rethreading the bolt / stud and buying a new nut - not sure if a die will rethread that bold assuming it is grade 8 or 10.9 (does anyone know the size and thread by chance?)
Or do I need to replace the bolt assuming I can find one and figure out how to replace it.
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks for all the replies - appreciated and helpful.
Well I got the bolt out - took 3 hrs this morning using a club hammer tapping the nut side (with the nut on) - finally worked it out far enough to get a pry bar under the bolt head and worked it out by turning and prying at the same time - but it was painfully slow.
Now I have a bigger problem.
When putting the upper mount back on the 3 studs, I damaged the threads on the top one and now I can't get the nut to thread on - 2 or 3 turns and then it just free spins without threading.
I have no idea how to get that stud out to replace - assuming I can find the stud.
I have it back together with just the 2 nuts holding the upper mount to the panel - that probably is not safe and I need to deal with this.
I was thinking about rethreading the bolt / stud and buying a new nut - not sure if a die will rethread that bold assuming it is grade 8 or 10.9 (does anyone know the size and thread by chance?)
Or do I need to replace the bolt assuming I can find one and figure out how to replace it.
Any help would be appreciated
I would buy a cheap threading kit and start there for sure. Nuts/bolts are easily replaced at the toyota/lexus dealership or online. You want part# 90178-14028 nut (if we're talking about the same one). It's a buck or two. I had to replace my upper brackets and nuts, so I happen to still have that part number handy. Good luck!
Thanks for the quick reply -
Thanks for the info on the nut (do you happen to know the size?) -
Both the nut and bolt are damaged so I have to replace both or rethread the bold and buy a nut.
Looks like I will have to go with rethreading because I don't know how to remove the bolt and replace.
I'm assuming I can drive with all three bolts holding the bracket with only the 2 side nuts - not something I'd would leave for long but hoping I can get around tomorrow while I look for a solution.
What size were the nuts that you took off? Generally for Toyota M12 suspension bolt has a 17mm head and M14 has a 19mm head. Always fine thread (1.25) but M14 would be 1.5. Toyota suspension bolts are always grade 10.9 from what I've seen on my cars.
All the bolts were 17mm heads - sounds like I can assume they are M12x1.25
Thanks for posting the information.
I'll probably pull the wheel off tomorrow morning and have another look.
I'm hoping I can get a die on that bolt now that I think I know the size.
I was also thinking about maybe cutting about a 1/4" off the end of the bolt which might clear the damaged thread -
I'm not even sure I really need to even fix that 3rd bolt - the bolt is still there to take the load off the shock so the other two good ones are probably all I need to keep the bracket in place.
Thanks everyone for the help - much appreciated.
Lower rear shock bolt problem
