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Temperature control button broken

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Old Dec 13, 2024 | 07:32 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by rush3rd
Hey Gang,
Yep, now I'm having this problem with my passenger side. Just happened. (Of course, when its now getting cold and you need the heat!). The temp UP function is broken, so its stuck on 70, which is fine in the summer, but not now. First of all, I'm so thankful to this club bc its often a pain in the butt to find solutions to the simplest things. I talked with Lexus on this, including the service manager who I know well, and apparently as good as Lexus is, they were very short-sided on some things----especially on this generation RX. I even mentioned stupid things like not being able to simply pop off speaker grills because the "geniuses" at Lexus decided to make the whole speaker "grill" a molded part of the whole freaking door panel, so if you want to get to your speakers, you have to take off the whole darn panel! (But I digress.) The manager did agree with me on this that yes, Lexus was short-sided on some things, and designing serviceable, pop out, plug in switches and controls was one of those areas. In fact, the Lexus Parts Department told me the only way to have Lexus fix this issue is to go through what they call the "Lexus Exchange Program", whereby their service department, NOT YOU, have to remove the panel and then they would "exchange" it for another one for a low, low price of $1800-$2500! Get that?!
Even if you know how to do it yourself (which I assume we all do here), in order for Lexus to "exchange" it, you have to pay THEIR service department the labor cost of removing it, THEN pay that absurd price for a replacement! I don't know about you guys, but I think they need to rename their "Exchange Program", bc that's not an exchange at all. An exchange would be something like a core on an alternator, etc. The service manager agreed with me that I should try to find the part myself and do the job, or find a replacement panel online.

Anyway, I've read all the posts here and obviously the easiest fix would be just to find a replacement panel and swap them out, keeping the original for parts that might fail in the future. Other than that, replacing the individual switch/part would be the way to go, but I just don't know about price of panel vs. individual part (I've seen the comments about it being way overpriced). I've also read the posts about using a 3D printer, which would be great, but I'd have to find a place that would do such work, and I don't even know where to begin. The post about using a mechanical pencil eraser is interesting, but I'm wondering about rubber vs. plastic, and how you attach/replace the part? Super glue? (I haven't looked at it yet, so I don't know.)
My question to you all is which way to go, but more importantly, any sources, directions, etc., for where to find any of this stuff other than what you've mentioned here. I used the link to that Taiwanese parts supplier but didn't see the availability of the parts. Does it come from Taiwan, or are there any state-side (US) suppliers/vendors available that anyone could steer my way?
Also, are there any 3D printer services that do this kind of stuff that anyone could recommend? I'm asking all these questions up front BEFORE I take the panel off so as to get all my ducks in a row and not have any surprises.
BTW: Mine is with a Nav.System and the Lexus P/N for mine is 86110B.

Thanks for your time!
Quick temporary solution is to disconnect your battery...this will reset your temp to 75 degrees, which is decent enough year round (also helps to have butt warmers, lol). I have been riding this way for 2 years. On a repair note...I found the 3D print files someone shared here. I have a 3D printer, but I am fumbling my way through getting it up and going. It will be a quick print once I get the leveling figured out on my printer. As far as installation, you have to pull out the AC/Nav unit and dismantle it. The switches just drop in...no gluing necessary. I wouldn't mind helping people out and 3D printing them...but I just have to get my level issue sorted out. I will update here when I successfully print mine.
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Old Dec 13, 2024 | 05:58 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by colton1954
Dennis
Thanks for the speedy reply . I did see the just the temperature panel on ebay I might try that. I guess if I do replace it I have to remove the whole ECU unit to get access to the temperature panel ? Thankfully it’s stuck on Max AC because the Texas heat will be coming soon.

Thanks Again
Bill
I put up a post last week showing how to remove the temp button from the front without pulling the dash apart.
Hope it helps
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Old Dec 15, 2024 | 06:24 PM
  #33  
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Yeah, I found a mechanical engineer locally that is making 3D parts for me now. I will post when I finish the job. On a side note: My center air vents are broken as well, which is more of an annoyance, since that stupid little cheap piece of plastic "bar" that the fins attach to break, causing the fins to move separately.
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Old Dec 16, 2024 | 08:27 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by rush3rd
Yeah, I found a mechanical engineer locally that is making 3D parts for me now. I will post when I finish the job. On a side note: My center air vents are broken as well, which is more of an annoyance, since that stupid little cheap piece of plastic "bar" that the fins attach to break, causing the fins to move separately.
You’se guys are making this way too hard! I used a hard plastic rod that I found in my neighbors yard to hold up the pest control guys sign to not walk on the grass till dry. You don’t need the shoulder on the original part. I just cut the plastic rod using trial and error till I got them to the right size so the switch/paddle was even on both the up/down sides and not too tight. I didn’t feel any difference from the one the dealer replaced which I’m assuming was OEM because it has the shoulder which BTW I believe requires you remove the console to get behind the switch to insert. My method only requires you remove the switch paddle which I posted pictures on how to do in a separate posting using a little tool I made but can probably be done with a small screw driver if you are careful.

As far as the vents are concerned, I used a couple of thin copper wires from a Cat-5 cable, stripped of the insulation, to wrap around the posts where the cheap plastic part was. I did this whilst I had the console out trying to mount an Android headend unit that turned out not to be what I wanted but at least gave me access to those stupid vents. I think you might be able to do it without removing the console if “someone” came up with a jig to form the wires into the right shape and then patiently inserting it from the front of the vent. It’s not rocket surgery and just requires a little patience which I’m, unfortunately lacking…🥵
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Old Dec 16, 2024 | 03:07 PM
  #35  
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That CAT-5 wire idea is a good one! I'll have to check that when I open it up later this week. It just has to be something that has the approximate thickness of the original, OR I could rig something of approximate thickness and cut out the slots in it with a Dremel so the fins either snap in place, or maybe secure the fins in place with Gorilla Glue. I DO NOT want to pay $80+ dollars EACH for two new vents.
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Old Jun 2, 2025 | 10:59 AM
  #36  
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M4 8mm nylon bolt works perfect
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Old Jun 2, 2025 | 11:02 AM
  #37  
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M4 8mm nylon bolt is a perfect fit and cheap.
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Old Jun 2, 2025 | 11:08 AM
  #38  
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M4 8mm nylon bolts to fix Temperature Switch
M4 8mm nylon bolts to fix Temperature Switch
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Old Jun 3, 2025 | 07:42 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Byron43
M4 8mm nylon bolts to fix Temperature Switch
M4 8mm nylon bolts to fix Temperature Switch
Good job, thank you for posting your fix!
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