Hey guys, after four faithful years and only at 163,000 kms my engine has kicked the bucket. I changed the oil religiously and even changed all maintenance items before they were due. She spun a rod bearing right after I changed the alternator, but I digress.

Now I have sourced a used engine coming off a 2010 RAV4 4X4 with 120,000 kms. I'm going to take the oil cooler off of my current engine.

I have a couple of questions, does anyone have any information on the easiest way of swapping out the engine? Do I go through the top or through the bottom? Do I remove the subframe like they do for the Sienna and ES350? Here's a link to someone doing it on a Sienna:
Do I need to do any Lexus specific tuning or will the computer take care of all that?

I am getting it done by a mechanic but I'm going to help him out so that I can get the car back quicker. If anyone has a manual that lays out the engine removal that'd be great.

Thanks for your help!

 

Pretty sure this is a good time to spent $35 and subscribe either alldatadiy or Toyota's techstream site and see all the official service manuals, wiring diagrams etc, cheap for the procedure you are doing!
E.g., from my service manual, step 64 is:Remove the 6 bolts, 2 nuts, and front suspension member brace rear RH and LH.Operate the engine lifter, then remove the engine assembly from the vehicle.
which seems like out the top, gl!

 

I just checked alldatadiy and Toyota techstream. I don't see the manual for my car on either site. Anyone have any first hand experience?

 

I have my 2008 RX350 from alldatadiy, don't see why 2007 wouldn't be there, plus it is identical to 2008 anyway I think.

 

I must be missing something because i can't find your 2008 either. I e-mailed them to check. I've searched a bunch of YouTube videos and they all look like they took the subframe out.

 

Engine and tranny has to come down with the subframe like in the video.
If yours is an AWD, T-case will even make it harder to split from the trans and vice versa.
Will this job be in a shop with a lift or in a home garage on jacks and jack stands?

No ECU tuning would be involved.
You'll be using your orig harness anyways.
Just swap whatever needs to get swap for it to work. (look at the color of the injectors if they are the same) (when in doubt, use your orig ones)
When you get the replacement motor, look over it meticulously for leaks, cracks, damage etc.
Turn the crank over too.

 

This is going to be in a shop with a lift. Mine is an AWD, what do I have to lookout for. Otherwise (besides the oil cooler) the engine is a direct replacement right? How difficult would you rate this job. Realistically how many man hours do you think it would take?

 

Awesome.!
Lifter and air tools will make it a lot easier.
It's just nuts and bolts from there.
Should be down on the ground in 2-3 hrs.(with beer/smoke breaks)

AWD-AWD motor should be a direct match. Not saying a 2wd wont work either.
Like i said earlier, you might have to use your old injector/rails etc. if needed.
So make sure you have a gasket kit on hand.
Replace the rear main and torque converter seal since its already accessible
Maybe even reseal the t-case cover since they are known to leak.
Water pump/t-stat maybe. It's just easier to work on these things when its out than in the vehicle.
You know what i mean.
I'd check the mounting for the T-case bracket to the motor side and see if bolt holes are there for mounting.
Also check the dowel pin location on the old motor and should be the same as the replacement one.
If not, it wont mate up correctly to the bellhousing of the tranny.

Total man hours?
Well, thats up to who is/are working on it and parts that are needed.

Goodluck.
Keep us posted here.

 

Replacement is all done boys! The engine was a direct fit minus the motor mounts (just harvested that off of my old engine). Going to strip the old one. I reset the ECU and VCS so both systems are working correctly. The only issue I now have is a recurrent P0174 and a P2197. When I got the car back the vacuum lines were all hooked up wrong. I figured most of it out but was wondering if anyone had a vacuum diagram for this engine. Any ideas on how to fix the codes I have?

 

Awesome job.
Both those codes a LEAN codes for BANK 2.
The 2197 is a STUCK LEAN code
I suspect a bad AF sensor.

Got any freeze frame data from the codes?

 

Just also wanted to say for P0174 I just checked the fuel trims and the fuel trims for bank 1 are perfect 0 and -3 but for bank two are short 25 long 35. This does not change with RPM. Does this sound like blocked injectors?

 

I would doubt clogged injectors for 1 bank.

 

Here are the freeze frames, something on bank two doesn't look right, but I don't know if it's the O2. Would that cause this?

 

 

When I search P0174 and a P2197 they both say Bank Two. The A/F is B2S1. You think this is the culprit?