First - again big props to JT aka HTOWNBLUE - his advice and help by both email, text and phone was extremely helpful as this one is not for the faint at heart.

A common weak link in the 2nd gen RX is the lower A arm bushing. Between dealer and independent mechanics, you could spend $800-$1300 – so this fix can have huge savings for owners. For a DIY, some choose to purchase the entire A arm, I purchased only the bushings and had a shop press them in. My car has 116k miles (FWD) and have had a steering vibration for a year or so discussed here:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...tion-help.html


I encourage all who attempt this to change your ball joints at the same time – you’re already in there (that’s what she said). I also provide a step-by-step to do this as well.

Below is my experience in doing both replacements (both driver and passenger bushings and ball joints). I would rate it on a scale of 1-10 with 10 being most difficult probably an 8. Total time is ~5hrs. If I did it again it would take 3hrs. I like to break things down in two days – 1st day teardown and 2nd day build up and I would suggest this for others.

Disclaimer: Attempt at your own risk. This is the method that I found most useful and efficient – yours may differ and may not be the exact as described herein. As with any do-it-yourself project, unfamiliarity with the tools and process can be dangerous. This project should be construed as theoretical advice.***I will not be held responsible for any injury or engine failure due to the misuse or misunderstanding of this DIY project****.

Non-typical parts needed, including special tools:

22mm (7/8) wrench and socket
30mm deep well (12 point) socket
breaker bar
2 floor jacks
2 jack stands
penetrating oil
ball joint separator (Harbor freight)
2 new OEM bushings (ebay)
2 new ball joints (autozone)


My total cost in this was:
$50 bushings
$20 shop to press them in existing A arms
$50 for ball joints
$3 for 30mm socket
________________
~$120 all in


Here is a high level summary of the bushing and ball joint procedure:

1. Jack vehicle and remove front wheels. Remove dog bone engine mount
2. Remove nuts from both pass and driver side engine mounts
3. Remove nuts from front engine mount
4. Remove bolt from rear engine mount
5. Jack up engine using two jacks, one on oil pan and other on tranny pan
6. Completely remove only the side engine mounts
7. Remove both A-arms
8. Replace bushings
9. Reinstall A-Arms except for ball joint end
10. Remove passenger side caliper assembly, rotor, speed sensor
11. Remove passenger cv joint assembly nut with drivers wheel/tire on and on ground
12. Remove tie rod
13. With mallet hammer cv joint assembly back through spindle
14. Remove ball joint
15. Pull cv joint assembly back through spindle
16. Reinstall new ball joint and everything else
17. Add wheel/tire to passenger side and lower vehicle.
18. Repeat 10-17 on drivers side.


Feel free to add additional info in this thread.


*******23MB FILE IS ATTACHED BELOW WITH ALL OF THE PICS AND WRITEUP********

Merry Xmas!


https://www.mediafire.com/?4m9b1m911cci017

 

Jimmy,
Glad I could help friend!

For those doing this job- make absolutely sure when removing axle nut, you have bent the "keeper tab/notch" upwards enough so that when you remove it you do not damage threads.

Also, I went ahead and removed axle from knuckle before I had loosened all mounts, but it's not that big of a deal. This is a great time to do all of your brake, suspension, engine mount, PS boots, ball joints, tie rod ends, a-arm bushings, etc. you'll have it all apart at that time.

I used a small punch and hammer to bend tab upwards for axle nut. FYI.

 

Outstanding write-up! Thanks for that. I will certainly use your procedure.
Chris

 

great write up as usual....is there anhy requirement to have an alignment done if just doing the control arms?

 

thanks for the comments. Some have alignment done afterwards but I've had no issues with mine so far so I would say it varies. You need to be careful removing tie rod ends to not adjust those at all - if you do alignment is inevitable.

 

thanks - all good suggestions as usual

 

Thanks for the writeup, alchemist. I saw the Duralast box pictured in the download. Any other comments about the parts your used, source(s) or any other research that went into your project?

 

Here are more specifics about the parts you have to purchase:


1. 30mm deep well (12 point) socket - Craftsman brand purchased at Sears

2. ball joint separator -

There are a few options here. Firstly, you can buy the special tool from Lexus/Toyota listed in their service manual - it's probably damn expensive:



The most ideal is a universal ball joint service set which you can get on ebay for ~$60:



Or a pickle fork will work on some cars, i tried two different sizes and neither worked 3/4 inch and 1 inch)



Last, i purchased the ball joint separator from harbor freight:

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html

Unfortunately i couldnt get it to work either. I couldnt get it wide enough to reach the ball joint shaft.

A pitman arm puller could possibly work:

http://www.harborfreight.com/tie-rod...ller-1752.html

What ultimately worked for me was a hammer lol.

3. 2 new OEM bushings. You can purchase these through ebay or sewell.

4. 2 new ball joints - i would have purchased through sewell lexus but wasnt planning on changing until day of bushing install so i had no choice but to buy through autozone.

 

And that is why I never re-did the bushings on my ES, same design really.

I jut bought new control arms for the 20$ price difference, and you save yourself the hassle of taking it to a shop, not to mention, in/out procedure taking no more than 1hr with air tools.

But I commend the effort, also good note pertaining to te ballpoints! Easy-least when you're at that stage in the process.

You didn't replace the accordion bushings did you? Those are near-impossible and a time killer, the main hockey puck bushings are much easier.

 

Great point. You can purchase the entire A arm for not much more. I fortunately have a shop near by with a 20 ton press so i just bought the hockey puck bushings. I did not mess with the acordion bushings, they are not under constant stress like the hockey puck ones so they were fine. If i were to do those i would have just bought the A arm.

 

We'll I'm gonna give it a try. Ordered the parts from rockauto as much less than sewellel even with discount. May be a few days as it's too cold at minus 8 now. But after doing the plug changes I'm confident in your instructions. One question though, since I plan to do the arms at same time with ball joints, at what point in the lower arm write up section should I switch over and proceed with the ball joint replacement? The instructions are in 2 seperates sections but at some point in the arm replacement process it seems that before completing, you should continue to the ball joints, and then back to finishing with the lower arm s

 

You can do it! Post if you have trouble. HTownblue can chime in but you can start after reinstalling a-arm. Install all bolts/nuts except for the 3 ball joint ones. Or you can begin with the ball join writeup and start removing axle nut, brakes, end link etc. It doesnt matter and wont affect the outcome if you start w A arm procedure pr ball joint procedure.

 

alchemist, and others who have done this work,

About the ball joint castle nut not having clearance at CV housing: Do you think it would work to remove ball joint shaft from knuckle by continuing to un-tighten the castle nut against the CV housing, thus pushing the shaft out of the knucle? I would think this would absolutely work if the top of the castle nut meets the CV housing evenly (noty at an angle).

I am about to do this work. Thanks for posting the excellent how-to.

 

sparkplugg, It is possible, however I think the main issue for this is the castle nut will just dig into the cv housing without creating enough pressure against the ball joint bolt. One thing we tried is to loosen the castle nut a few turns then try to use a device between CV housing and ball joint bolt to try and pop the ball joint free. The problem is there is no room to work between the two.

I would suggest you try what you mentioned but don't get carried away. The last thing you want to do is to have to get the torch out. Please report back.

 

the other thing I forgot to mention, when you put everything back together, make sure you check all of the lines and hoses from the engine above. The tube running from my airbox to throttle body was separated. This was probably due to the pressure on the lines from jacking the motor.