hc1001

I just wanted to say this is a very good DIY writeup. I have not performed the task but read through the whole pdf. Thank you.

I was wondering if you ever considered using a dremel to cut the castle nut apart instead of taking the axle out? Let me know what you think.

Seems like theres enough room for a dremel when you loosen the castle nut to the top of the threads. First mark the castle nut when its tightened on the wheel hub assembly for where you will make a slit. Loosen the nut till its near the top of the threads. Make a deep slit on the mark you made previously but not all the way and then tighten the nut back down on the thread and use a chisel to separate it. You should hit the left side of the slit so the nut doesnt spin since its all the way tight against the hub assembly. It should separate. Grind down new castle nut for re-installation.

You can even make a slit 180 degrees from the first mark so the nut splits easier.

unsure45

That was awesome. I will definitely use this. Waiting for my control arm to arrive

HokieCJ7

I said something to the same effect on the previous page. There is not much room, but I think it can be done. My only concern is not being able to torque down the nut as you would only be able to get a wrench on it, and not a socket due to space limitations. For that matter, you may also not be able to break the nut free with just a wrench.

hc1001

Sorry Hokie, i didnt see your post.

I guess the first step would be to make sure the nut breaks loose before putting a slit on it. I also didnt see any torque #s for anything in the PDF, is it listed somewhere? I think a wrench would be able to tighten down the nut close to spec, but it wouldnt be as good as a torque wrench.

viewsonic

Does anyone find the old lower control arm bushing mount hole slanted after taken out? My old bushing is slant at an angle even after remove from my 2004 RX330 AWD. Is it by design or jusr bushing is bad? I am afraid put a right angle mount bushing may make alignment impossible if the slant is by design. Any feedback from DIY of this RX330 bushing replacement?
Thank You!
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ima...s/confused.gif

alchemist

iTrader: (1)

Mine were the same - I think it is design.

viewsonic

Do you replace with right angle one? Can it be correctly aligned?

viewsonic

I finally finished replace the LCA bushing with PSB bushing. But, after I pry and put back the ball joint, the LCA slip out of bushing. It seems slip too easy. I have grease with plumber silicone grease. Not sure this is the problem. I am going to replace the whole instead but interest to find out what is wrong or just the problem with the part. Anyone has similar experience?

robbyk

Did you replaced just the bushing or the entire LCA?.

The front LCA bushings in my 05RX330 AWD are cracked, I am debating if I should replace the bushings or the entire LCA. OEM LCA run $180 minus 10% discount from myLParts.com in this web site.

Never mind guys, I guess I just answered my own question. I am going to replace the entire arm, the prices at Rock Auto are pretty good.
I found two brands and debating which one to choose from: DORMAN or BECK/ARNLEY. I want quality control arms without OEM's price tag, the BECK/ARNLEY are $11.80 more .

I have heard good things about DORMAN's quality, I have not heard much about BECK / ARNLEY. Can you guys provide your experience and or suggestions with either brand.

P.S. Upon research I just found this link regarding ths BECK/ARNLEY quality: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...-far-away.html

robbyk

I have my LCA on order from Rock Auto (Dorman brand) . Although my RX330 does not exhibit the vibrations associated with cracked front bushings it is time to replace the arms, so wish me luck. The cracks I see are similar to Alchemist's pictures posted in this thread.

I am going to tackle this job in two sessions due to time constraints, next Saturday I am going to replace both LCAs only. Two weeks later I am going to replace the ball joints, and I know it does not make sense to do this like but I am not going to have time to complete both jobs (LCA & BJoints) in one sitting.

As preventative maintenance I am also going to replace the anti sway bar links (Front & Rear). They are not making noise but I just want to get them replaced since I am pushing 92,000 miles.

Barry2522

Sorry that makes no sense a couple more bolts hold the ball joints on the lower arm . that would take about 5 min per side to do once the lower arm is out . I would rethink that one.

robbyk

Don't I have to remove the axle from the knuckle in order to remove the nut holding the ball joint?.
The issue is the ball joint castle nut does not have clearance at CV housing.

robbyk

sparkplugg,

Did you ever do this work and did you go about replacing the ball joint?. Did you loosen up the cast nut against the CV housing until the shaft came out of the knuckle or you went the hard way by removing the axle shaft?.

I am about to do this work and want opinions on the ball joint replacement. Replacing the lower control arms should not take very long to do. Not sure how much longer replacing the ball joint will add to the job.

Barry2522

All you have to do is loosen castle nut as far as you can . Than hit the side of the knuckle in the area around the ball joint and it will pop loose and drop down enough to take the nut off . . It might take a couple of good hits with a bigger hammer, it will work . Don't run the nut into the axle shaft that wont push it through .

robbyk

Last weekend I finally replaced both of my front lower control arms, except for the ball joint. I tried removing the ball joint but whatever I tried did not work and did not have the time to remove the axle. So I will be doing this job another day when I have more time. Basically I loosened the castle nut as far as I could and hammered on the side of the steering knuckle around the ball joint hoping that it would pop lose but it did not.

The replacement of both front LCA got rid of a vibration I was feeling in the steering wheel driving on the highway at around 70MPH or so, but that was not the reson I replaced the LCAs. Reason I replaced them was because they were cracked and did mot want to have alignment issues, looked similar to a pic posted in this thread. In regards to the vibration in the steering wheel, I was pretty sure I was going to have to replace the front struts or the ball joints to get rid of the vibration. Well I am still going to replace the front struts because they should be replaced around 90K miles anyways and the ball joints.