Got a 2008 RX350 and mid winter started taking slightly more cranks before it started(cold/ambient temp). Has gradually gotten worse taking now many more cranks than usual before it starts(cold/ambient temp). When cranking, it's not acting like it's trying to start, but after a number of cranks, it just quickly starts like when it was new - except it takes many more cranks before it does start. It is quite noticeable. Took it to the dealer and they tried to say it was the gas from BP...yeah right! I think they just didn't want to deal with whatever it is. Any help where to start appreciated. Starter and battery are good. Air intake is good.

 

Maybe its just me,but I find dealerships (not just Lexus) are always too quick to say; "We cant duplicate the problem!" That is a BIG turn off for me.

 

Yes. You have to take a car in three times for the same problem before they actually fix it.

 

My completely uneducated opinion is that its either a fuel delivery problem (unlikely). Or an ignition problem, which in essence is a computer problem.

I think you're just going to need to duplicate the problem again for the dealer. This time, find a shell station and bring your receipt for gas so they can't claim bad gas to be the problem.

 

I can imagine [and experienced] what you are saying, but look at the alternative ... the shop claims they will fix it and then go ahead and at random replace parts and charges you and after you pick it up, the problem is still there. To me an honest upfront answer ... we can not reproduce so we can not fix it is a better answer. One can insists that with enough dedication [labor] one can check all possibilities. The problem with that is there is one possibility that is a unique condition for fail which can not be reproduced in shop.


Back to the problem. Try pressing the gas pedal a bit and see if the engine catches. If some how the idle is low, the engine after being spun by starter shuts off.

You can also try checking fuel flow and pressure.

I know you said the battery is good, but try charging it overnight ... a fully charged battery tends to spin the engine a bit faster. As the battery gradually gets weaker, our normal spin rate gets recalibrated till we install a new battery.

Salim

 

Unfortunately, battery is good/fully charged. Cranking is fast as normal. Idle is not low. It's not flooded. Would need to have fuel pressure checked, Especially prior to cranking to assure I have full pressure before start. I think I'm going to have to take it to the dealer if I don't come across anyone else with this problem, or a suggestion of something to check myself. I hate dealers, especially here. They charge like $100 an hour and then end up telling you "bad gas" (when my mom took it in).

 

Did u try an injector cleaner? Maybe they are not at 100% & need a good cleaning.
When it does run is it smooth running?

 

I am showing my age, but to overcome the flood one is supposed to hold the gas pedal fully down (and not pump it). Here I meant pressure to depress the the gas pedal to about 1/3 to 1/2.

The key in ignition wakes up the pump and you should have the pressure. There is a safety mechanism in electrical pumps that cut out when the engine is not running [but it does pump up the first time you insert the ignition key].

Now if you propose the pressure and flow test to the dealer and pay for the labor rate (yes more than $100/hr), they will run the test [pass or fail]. Follow the suggestion and run a bottle of red-line cleaner and see.

Salim

 

With a carb u can flood the engine, not the new breed that has injectors.

 

When I mentioned age, I was talking about the era of carbs. These days the injected gasoline is metered by the Oxygen/air coming in.

Salim