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I've had this car for three years, it has 220,000 miles, one previous owner. I just got through changing my timing belt, using the Aisin kit, which includes the belt, water pump, tensioner, upper idler pulley and tension pulley. I also replaced the alternator and power steering belts, along with the camshaft seals and crankshaft pulley. Due to self inflicted damage, I also replaced the harmonic balancer (Ebay $230).
To prep for the job, it seems I watched about a hundred videos on the subject. I also bought a bunch of tools, with many trips to Harbor Freight with a little Amazon and Ebay thrown in. Also picked up the loaner tools from Auto Zone; the harmonic balancer puller and the 0-250 torque wrench. Over all, the job followed the videos pretty well UNTIL... Removing the crankshaft pulley bolt.
It probably took me four days to get that damned thing off. First I tried my old Chicago Pneumatic impact tool, then I bought the HF corded ugga-dugga impact, tried PB blaster, propane torch, various breaker bars, and extensions. I saw the mentions of using a breaker bar with the starter to get it off. I'll spare you the details, but this is where I damaged the harmonic balancer. I really didn't like pursuing that path, didn't like the risk of damaging the starter or the flywheel. I did order one of those weighted 22mm sockets from Amazon, but got the bolt off before it arrived, so I returned it.
In the attached photo, you can see where I used a jack stand to put support under the breaker bar, while I used a 3/8" x 14" extension. Well, this led to a shop disaster. While I was putting all my weight on the red pipe, it slid out from under my foot and violently flipped back, throwing the pipe into the air, colliding with my fluorescent shop light, smashing both tubes into thousands of little pieces. Fun huh?
So, after I got that mess cleaned up, I called an old friend who used to be a Toyota master mechanic and he urged me to use a longer extension on the breaker bar. I also realized that the 3/8" extensions were too flimsy for this job, that the extension was actually twisting rather than delivering torque to the socket. So, back to HF to buy a 1/2" extension set. I also called a buddy who had a 6' piece of pipe for better leverage. And what do you know? It did the job! I did see that the previous timing belt mechanic used Loctite, maybe that's what kept the impact tools from working.
After that, things went pretty well. I did buy a new crank pulley bolt, the head on mine had started deforming from all the ugga-dugga tries. I got it all together and it actually started! I took it out for a little drive and it seemed fine. However, when I got back I discovered a leak in the aftermarket radiator, so I have a new OEM one on the way.
It was an interesting and often frustrating job, mostly from not knowing exactly which tools would do the job. I do know that I learned a lot, saved a good amount of money, versus paying a shop to do it, and have increased my tool inventory.
Can also just wedge the breaker bar and click the starter over a couple times. It will break loose easily.
This is an under-rated trick. Even with a huge breaker bar, this was the only way I got the crank broken on an older SUV I had (‘98 Acura SLX/Isuzu Trooper). That starter will lay the torque down for you, completely push-button, so to speak.
This is an under-rated trick. Even with a huge breaker bar, this was the only way I got the crank broken on an older SUV I had (‘98 Acura SLX/Isuzu Trooper). That starter will lay the torque down for you, completely push-button, so to speak.
I didn't pursue that route, I was worried that I might damage the starter or the starter gear. Maybe it's indestructible, but I just didn't know.
Last edited by SoIllSam; May 15, 2025 at 08:36 AM.
So I just did this job 2 weeks ago. (Originally started 2 months ago but couldn't budge crank bolt and had to put it back together.) \
Same problems-the Impact gun I had wouldn't budge it. Breaker bar, 5 foot pole no luck so I took a pause put it back together and came back to it later.
(had to drive it)
I did a little research and bought a Rigid Hi-Torque Impact gun. LIke 1600ft/lb off 900 ft/lb on or some such.
When I got to this point, I was still anxious. Man, it popped off like it was greased.
Worth what I spent on the tool.
Everything going smooth until I had to put it back together.
Tensioner pulley bolt stripped out before I even had much pressure on it. It may have been my fault but I feel like it was already jacked from when the dealer did it 7 years ago or so.
So after a lot of cussing, staring at it and running ideas through my head, I you tubed the problem.
Ended up going w/ the Heli coil. I was still nervous, but the tap went in smooth and straight. I had to back it out and then tap it again a couple of times. Used the shop vac to suck out the shavings and inserted the heli coil.
When I installed the bolt this time, it was smooth and tightened right down to 25ft/lbs. (Or whatever it called for.)
The rest of the job was smooth sailing.
So I just did this job 2 weeks ago. (Originally started 2 months ago but couldn't budge crank bolt and had to put it back together.) \
Same problems-the Impact gun I had wouldn't budge it. Breaker bar, 5 foot pole no luck so I took a pause put it back together and came back to it later.
(had to drive it)
I did a little research and bought a Rigid Hi-Torque Impact gun. LIke 1600ft/lb off 900 ft/lb on or some such.
When I got to this point, I was still anxious. Man, it popped off like it was greased.
Worth what I spent on the tool.
Everything going smooth until I had to put it back together.
Tensioner pulley bolt stripped out before I even had much pressure on it. It may have been my fault but I feel like it was already jacked from when the dealer did it 7 years ago or so.
So after a lot of cussing, staring at it and running ideas through my head, I you tubed the problem.
Ended up going w/ the Heli coil. I was still nervous, but the tap went in smooth and straight. I had to back it out and then tap it again a couple of times. Used the shop vac to suck out the shavings and inserted the heli coil.
When I installed the bolt this time, it was smooth and tightened right down to 25ft/lbs. (Or whatever it called for.)
The rest of the job was smooth sailing.
Nice job. You were fortunate to be able to have enough clearance to tap for the helicoil.
I've had this car for three years, it has 220,000 miles, one previous owner. I just got through changing my timing belt, using the Aisin kit, which includes the belt, water pump, tensioner, upper idler pulley and tension pulley. I also replaced the alternator and power steering belts, along with the camshaft seals and crankshaft pulley. Due to self inflicted damage, I also replaced the harmonic balancer (Ebay $230).
To prep for the job, it seems I watched about a hundred videos on the subject. I also bought a bunch of tools, with many trips to Harbor Freight with a little Amazon and Ebay thrown in. Also picked up the loaner tools from Auto Zone; the harmonic balancer puller and the 0-250 torque wrench. Over all, the job followed the videos pretty well UNTIL... Removing the crankshaft pulley bolt.
It probably took me four days to get that damned thing off. First I tried my old Chicago Pneumatic impact tool, then I bought the HF corded ugga-dugga impact, tried PB blaster, propane torch, various breaker bars, and extensions. I saw the mentions of using a breaker bar with the starter to get it off. I'll spare you the details, but this is where I damaged the harmonic balancer. I really didn't like pursuing that path, didn't like the risk of damaging the starter or the flywheel. I did order one of those weighted 22mm sockets from Amazon, but got the bolt off before it arrived, so I returned it.
In the attached photo, you can see where I used a jack stand to put support under the breaker bar, while I used a 3/8" x 14" extension. Well, this led to a shop disaster. While I was putting all my weight on the red pipe, it slid out from under my foot and violently flipped back, throwing the pipe into the air, colliding with my fluorescent shop light, smashing both tubes into thousands of little pieces. Fun huh?
So, after I got that mess cleaned up, I called an old friend who used to be a Toyota master mechanic and he urged me to use a longer extension on the breaker bar. I also realized that the 3/8" extensions were too flimsy for this job, that the extension was actually twisting rather than delivering torque to the socket. So, back to HF to buy a 1/2" extension set. I also called a buddy who had a 6' piece of pipe for better leverage. And what do you know? It did the job! I did see that the previous timing belt mechanic used Loctite, maybe that's what kept the impact tools from working.
After that, things went pretty well. I did buy a new crank pulley bolt, the head on mine had started deforming from all the ugga-dugga tries. I got it all together and it actually started! I took it out for a little drive and it seemed fine. However, when I got back I discovered a leak in the aftermarket radiator, so I have a new OEM one on the way.
It was an interesting and often frustrating job, mostly from not knowing exactly which tools would do the job. I do know that I learned a lot, saved a good amount of money, versus paying a shop to do it, and have increased my tool inventory.
My enemy, the 22mm bolt!
Did you use a pulley stoper when undoing the crank pulley bolt?
I'm in progress of doing my timing belt (also thermostat, cam shaft seals, crank seal) right now. My car has 180K miles timing belt was last done 80K miles and 9 years ago figured it was time.
My crank bolt wouldn't budge with my Milwaukee mediim sized impact so brought out the 110v large Harbor freight...in the maybe 8 attempts the bolt didn't budge. Tried doing the "bang" mehttod of pulling the EFI fuse with a large breaker bar and turning teh starter fora split second still nothing... figured my only option was to button it up and go for help asking a local garage to hit it with their heavy air tools but trying it a cuople more times with my 110v impact did the job the bolt spun right off. Ordered a new bolt from Toyota though original was not buggered up.
I also have a thread started a couple days ago about this saga.
Helpful tools bought or loaned:
Large torque wrench that can handle up to 162 ft/lbs needed for crank bolt install - loaned from O'Reilly's free mine only goes to 100 ft/lbs
A VERY powerful impact gun
"harmonic balancer puller tool" - borrowed from O'Reilly's free
IF doing the cam seals get the cam seal installation tool from Amazon ($14)