About 4 weeks ago one of the interior lights were left on while we went out of town. Came back to find a dead battery and since the battery was 4.5 years old, I just went and replaced it. Started right up and have had no issues since then. 3 days ago, my wife and I went to the store and when we were leaving. It didnt start on the first time I turned the key (like I did not turn it long enough), but started the second time no problem. We get home turn the car off and 10 mins later go to pick up one of my kids up and it wont start. You can hear the starter trying to turn but not combustion. Almost like it just didnt have enough power to turn it over. Hooked up the charger and it said it was charged. Ran the codes and got either a P1155, or P1155 I am pretty sure it was the P1155 because i looked it up right away and what I remember reading is what I read when I look that code up. Dummy me deleted the codes before writing them down.

From what I had read, on the code a big thing people said was air/fuel ratio sensor, for bank 2 sensor 1 which I believe is right up front and pretty easy to replace. I replaced that and still the same thing. I can hear the starter trying and it doesn't sound like my starter did on my durango when it went bad. I was thinking maybe the fuel pump but I can hear it click when I turn the key just a little bit. So I am guessing that is working. Not sure how to test it. I am wondering if it is not sparking and this is why it wont turn over. If that is the case, how do I check for that.

Any ideas are greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

O2 sensor won't cause this.
You have either bad battery terminals, all corroded, or bad contact where cables are connected to the cable clamps, as it's a joint, or bad negative or positive on starter, or bad connection anywhere in-between. Or, simply bad battery, a plenty of them nowadays new that go bad. That voltmeter shows 14V means nothing, it needs to be load tested.
Try jumping starter direct. See what happens.

 

I tried to jump start it already. I swapped the battery out with my parents rx300 and their car started up with my battery but still the same thing on our car. I cleaned all the cables. No corrosion. It seems like their is no spark to start the engine. I am not sure how to check if I am getting a spark or not. With my old chevy, it is not a problem.

 

Crank over mean turn under the power of starter.
Catch on the other hand is unable to ignite the cylinder.

More details are in the sticky 'Having problems start here thread".

Salim

 

I just noticed this morning that when I put my key in the ignition, the security light keeps flashing instead of turning off like it did before. It is not the original master key. The key with the fob on it broke off a few years ago and I got a blank key that holds the electronics of the original key but I can not put that into the ignition since I have never had it cut. I have read that I can "connect" a new key to the car but I have to use the master key. Would this cause the car not to start though? The key we have been using is one that I had made about 6 years ago when we got the car. It only had the one fob key. I am hoping the ECU is not bad and that is what caused the issue. Does anyone know how to check to see if that is the problem?

 

I will still refer you to having problems sticky thread.

If you use a key which is NOT registered in the ECU as a Master or valet, your spark will be killed by the immobilizer.
Your starter should still still crank the engine as the key blade is turned to start.

Some folks use the proper blade and bring the slug from the the broken master/valet key near the ignition key slot to fool the electronics.

Salim

 

I have been reading the sticky threads and have not seen anything that I have not tried. I was able to put the master key in the ignition so that it recognized the chip/magnet and I was able to get my other key to be recognized. Still it is not starting. I turn the key all the lights come on, and when I try and start the car all you hear is the electrical sound just like you would hear right before the car would start.

If a security switch was engaged due to a the key not working could it have locked it out so it wont start. Now that I have redone the key, could it still be locking me out. If so, is there a way to reset it? I am extremely confused by all this now.

 

If your security light shuts off it isnt the immobilizer that is causing the no start. If the light continues blinking when the key is inserted it wont start the car.
Hopefully it isnt an immobilizer issue, these ecus have to be reflashed and can be difficult to find someone to do it and can be expensive. I have had great luck removing the eeprom and virginizing it myself.