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'99 RX300 won't start, single click and then the electrical system dies

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Old 04-26-18, 12:24 PM
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GeoffRoll9
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Default '99 RX300 won't start, single click and then the electrical system dies

Hey everyone,

I tried to look through the older posts and use the search function, I found some related issues but nothing to do exactly with what is happening with my wife's RX300. In the past it has had some off and on issues with starting, but we were able to get those issues resolved with some minor fixes. Now it is doing something completely new.
When I insert the key and turn it to the "on" position everything on the dash lights up just like normal, but the second I try to turn the car over there is a SINGLE click from the starter and then the entire electrical system dies. Literally nothing electrical works in the car. It takes around 10 minutes for the system to boot back up (almost like hitting the restart button on a computer) and then magically all electrical systems turn back on. During those 10 minutes some systems start powering back on, starting with the security light, then the yellow lights in the door frame, and then all the other systems (dash/radio) power back on at the same time. I can sit there and repeat this exact process over and over. Turn the key, single click, then electrical systems die, 10 minutes later its all back to normal. I am mechanically savvy, but electrical systems are not my best topic. However, with my little knowledge, this sounds like there is a short in the system which is overloading something and causing the ECU to reset itself. The car has a brand new battery and new belts. To my knowledge it still has the original starter. Any help with this will be greatly appreciated. If there is any information I left out, please let me know!! Thank you everyone in advance!!

-Geoff
Old 04-26-18, 01:27 PM
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Lexmus
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Can you jump start it?

Without jump starting, measure the voltage at the battery as someone attempts to start the vehicle to see how much the voltage drops, and report the values.

Last edited by Lexmus; 04-26-18 at 02:04 PM. Reason: Clarify note
Old 04-26-18, 02:23 PM
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GeoffRoll9
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Thank you for your reply Lexmus! I have not tried to jump start it yet, I can give that shot. I will also get a multimeter and check what the voltage's are, hopefully I can rent one somewhere. From what I found if the voltage drops below 9.6 while cranking there is something wrong, what does this usually mean?
Old 04-26-18, 07:31 PM
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salimshah
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I would recommend that OP reads the sticky ... having problems start here Mega thread"

Voltmeters are less than $5 and at times given off for free at HarborFreight. They are not accurate but good enough for checking battery.

From the description the battery is weak.

Once confirmed, then one has to do the root cause analysis. Old battery [compare the service dates against the warranty or typically 3yrs]. Bad charging system or a drain [lights left on] etc.

Other cause can be bad starter, but that seems unlikely as the battery seems to be dying under load and is able to recover to power low load. Lexmus has already suggested jump start and that would help narrow down by process of elimination. [keep in mind if you have a dead cell where battery produces 10v, the jump may not be able to start.]

Salim

ps: When the battery is under severe load (starting) the voltage can drop from 12v. It just might be easiest to take the old battery to auto shop and have them test it. You can purchase a replacement and leave the old one behind in one trip. If the battery is 3+ yrs in service i would suggest do that.

Last edited by salimshah; 04-27-18 at 06:55 AM.
Old 04-27-18, 06:30 AM
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Lexmus
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I don't like the cheap harbor Freight multimeters, as I have a friend whose unit reported incorrect voltages, and one I got quickly lost the display. But it is better than nothing. I highly recommed the inexpensive Sears one, that can be had as low as $10.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-multi...p-03482141000P

You may be able to borrow one from an auto parts store like Advance auto or Auto zone.

If you are investing in tools, I would buy a decent multimeter as they are handy for work around the house and the car.
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Old 04-29-18, 05:01 PM
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GeoffRoll9
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Hey all,
Thanks for all the support with this!! I got my hands on the fancier version of the harbor freight multimeters. I just checked the batteries voltage without any load on the system and it read anywhere between 12.26v-12.35v. To my knowledge this means the battery is not fully charged. With the key in the "on" position it dropped to around 12.15v. I attempted to turn the car on to see if I could record the voltage drop while trying to turn the car over and it did the same thing, single click noise and then the whole system dies. The multimeter meter showed no drop in voltage as I tried to turn the car over, so maybe that means there is an interruption in the path of current from the battery to the starter? As I said before I am illiterate when it comes to electrical systems haha!! I unfortunately don't own any jumper cables, but I will take the battery over to oreillys and have them charge it fully. This batter was replaced on March 20, 2018 so this battery is just over a month old. Thanks for all the continued help!! And I will definitely take a look at that sticky Salim!!

-Geoff
Old 04-30-18, 03:43 PM
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carguy07
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Buy some jumper cables, you obviously need some anyway. Then you can rule out the battery on your own,
Old 05-09-18, 04:47 AM
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Drcoffee
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Everytime this exact symptom occurred on my vehicles, it was a corroded battery ground. Replace the black battery cable.

you can test it first by bypassing it. Use a jumper cable to ground the (-) post to the alternator bracket. If the engine fires up, you found the problem.


Last edited by Drcoffee; 05-09-18 at 04:51 AM.
Old 05-11-18, 04:25 PM
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sktn77a
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Could also be a starter winding short.
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