I recently finished a JDM engine swap on a 2000 RX300. I picked it in February with a severe engine knock. On a previous post of tim73 I mentioned trying this on my next RX300 project. Everything went ok when I pulled the engine from the top. I will probably stick to this method in the future as it seems alittle simpler overall. Even with my two post lift!!. I have a list steps written down that I will share here when I get a little more time. I also have a bunch of pics to share. Here's one to get started!

 

Thanks for sharing, looking forward to more pics.

 

Top side

1 Remove Hood
2 Wiper arms, plastic cover, wiper motor assembly(pull wires out of pan), metal pan
3 Cross brace
4 Cruise control motor and cable
5 Upper passenger side motor mount
6 Battery
7 Intake box and hoses
8 Radiator hoses (Drain radiator and block first) and heater hoses
9 3 small vacuum lines (throttle body, resonator box, and evap valves (at the "T")
10 Throttle cable
11 EVAP line (green cap)
12 Ground wire on drivers strut tower
13 Take a break!
14 Power steering line from back of intake
15 Alternator and lower bracket arm
16 AC compressor (unbolt from block, leave lines attached)
17 Wire harness from computer (3 plugs), feed cable through fire wall
18 Front O2 sensor wire
19 Front exhaust manifolt nuts (6).
20 Oil filter
21 Front engine mount bolt
22 disconnect fuel line (bag the end)
23 Wires from harness that run to battery and fuse box (2 plugs below fuse box)
24 Wires from harness that connect to transmission
25 Starter (lay off to side)
26 Top bell housin bolts

Bottom

1 Torque converter bolts
2 Power steering pump (I ended up using the jdm pump due to different mounting brackets)
3 Harmonic balancer
4 Exhaust connection between rear cat and Y pipe
5 Exhaust connection between Y pipe and third cat. (springs and bolts)
6 Bolt that attaches exhaust brace to front diff
7 6 rear exhaust manifold nuts (these are a bugger to get to. Wobble extentions help)
8 3 bolts (1 long and 2 short) that connect engine rear engine mount bracket to front diff
9 Large nut on rear mount
10 3 Lower bell housing bolts (one is tucked up near front diff)

Note: When engine is spilt from trans and starting to raise, remove the front mount bracket from block (4 bolts)
the bracket is hard to get past the front exhaust manifold.

The JDM engines I have bought use a slightly different oil pump, belt tensioner, power steering pump and mount, and have a steel bracket sticking out by the harmonic balancer.
This is what is found on the 2001ish Toyota Highlander. If your doing a timing belt on your new jdm engine, get the kit for the 2001 Highlander.

 

 

Very tight here. I cut about 3/8" off the tip of the cruise control mount to make installing easier.

 

This is the engine mount that is not used on the RX. (still need the power steering bolt hole however) I cut off tip with a band saw. You can also leave it and cut a hole in the splash guard.


mount back on engine


New rear main seal. Old one was leaking slightly. Make sure to use thread sealer on flex plate bolts, the holes in crankshaft are open to the inside of the crankcase


ratchet strap to adjust angle of engine

 

You can see the new updated rear valve cover in one these.



tip of cruise control perch cut back

 

Thanks,I knew it could be done ! Im doing it by myself and on a tight budget...You gave me the inspiration i needed .

 

Hmm ... I was under the impression that the recommended method is to pull engine from top.

Thanks for the details.

Salim

 

I've pulled them from the top a couple of times, but I find it easier to remove the heads first. I don't remove the wipers, or the hood.

 

Thank you for the information. I own a 2002 Lexus RX 300 with 196,000 miles. I am the second owner and bought it from a family friend. I’m pulling the engine to replace the timing belt and water pump as preventive maintenance, as well as tried to stop oil leak from the rear valve cover and anywhere else I find. I was going to jack the body off of the drive train, but since I am doing this by myself, I believe this is the way I will go. I am 78 years old and have been turning my own wrenches and building my own engines/cars since I was 15 just now takes me a whole lot longer to get the job done. I saw a mention about an improved updated rear valve cover. Are you talking about the physical valve cover are just a better gasket? Thank you for all your help.

 

No!

No need to pull the engine. Timing belt and water pump can be replaced wihout removing the engine.

As things age [including us as humans, least invasive way is the way. There is a high chance of collateral damage.

remove the wiper motor and the cowl to gain easier access to the bank1 valve cover. Remember to order all the gaskets [specially for air intake]. Keep meticulous count of wires being grounded.

Salim

 

Well, I’m about halfway through getting it out. I want to do the plugs while I’m at it and any other gaskets that I think could stand to be changed. Thanks for all the advice.

 

If you have separated the engine, do replace the rear main seal. [stick with OEM]

As far as the plugs are concerned, please read the discussion on it. The plugs can be replaced without removing the intake in first Gen. I and many others have done that.

Also every gasket the it removed should be replaced and not re-used. The less you open, the less items you replace. OEM is the only way to go.

I would highly recommend to replace valve cover gaskets [IMHO they are good for only 100K miles]

Salim

 

Any advice or suggestions on changing the rear seal?