replacing lower control arm and ball joints - what else?
I am going to replace the lower control arms on my front end.
What else should I do while I'm at it?
After reviewing some videos, it looks like now would be a good time to replace:
ball joints (they are crusty and never been replaced)
rotors and pads (rotors are old and pads just started to make that scrape noise all the time)
tie rods (never been replaced)
What else should be done? Fyi, I'm at 170,000 miles.
What else should I do while I'm at it?
After reviewing some videos, it looks like now would be a good time to replace:
ball joints (they are crusty and never been replaced)
rotors and pads (rotors are old and pads just started to make that scrape noise all the time)
tie rods (never been replaced)
What else should be done? Fyi, I'm at 170,000 miles.
I would say, first figure out what needs replacement. Visit any suspension shop and they will do the testing for you. You can pay them for their time, but usually they do this a free service to generate work for them.
Once you touch suspension then you have to take the vehicle for alignment. So it is better to do all the suspension work at one time .. that include struts as well.
Other repairs that are standalone like brake pads etc can be done when the need arises.
Salim
Once you touch suspension then you have to take the vehicle for alignment. So it is better to do all the suspension work at one time .. that include struts as well.
Other repairs that are standalone like brake pads etc can be done when the need arises.
Salim
Thanks for the replies.
I took my car into Big O and they told me it's time to do my entire suspension. They drove my car down the road, they said my suspension is pretty bad, noisy, etc. They said that after taking the wheels off and inspecting that the ball joints are bad and the bearings on the lower control arms are bad. I told them not right now as I will do it myself.
I would like suggestions on what I should replace while I have it up on jack stands.
Can I please get suggestions on what I should replace while I have it taken apart? Like for example, I should probably do my brakes since they are squealing now. I can call the shop back and ask but I'm assuming that they were also implying that the tie rods should be done as well. These are the things I'm wondering about.
I took my car into Big O and they told me it's time to do my entire suspension. They drove my car down the road, they said my suspension is pretty bad, noisy, etc. They said that after taking the wheels off and inspecting that the ball joints are bad and the bearings on the lower control arms are bad. I told them not right now as I will do it myself.
I would like suggestions on what I should replace while I have it up on jack stands.
Can I please get suggestions on what I should replace while I have it taken apart? Like for example, I should probably do my brakes since they are squealing now. I can call the shop back and ask but I'm assuming that they were also implying that the tie rods should be done as well. These are the things I'm wondering about.
Last edited by jwigley; Mar 10, 2018 at 11:38 PM.
Thanks for the replies.
I took my car into Big O and they told me it's time to do my entire suspension. They drove my car down the road, they said my suspension is pretty bad, noisy, etc. They said that after taking the wheels off and inspecting that the ball joints are bad and the bearings on the lower control arms are bad. I told them not right now as I will do it myself.
I would like suggestions on what I should replace while I have it up on jack stands.
Can I please get suggestions on what I should replace while I have it taken apart? Like for example, I should probably do my brakes since they are squealing now. I can call the shop back and ask but I'm assuming that they were also implying that the tie rods should be done as well. These are the things I'm wondering about.
I took my car into Big O and they told me it's time to do my entire suspension. They drove my car down the road, they said my suspension is pretty bad, noisy, etc. They said that after taking the wheels off and inspecting that the ball joints are bad and the bearings on the lower control arms are bad. I told them not right now as I will do it myself.
I would like suggestions on what I should replace while I have it up on jack stands.
Can I please get suggestions on what I should replace while I have it taken apart? Like for example, I should probably do my brakes since they are squealing now. I can call the shop back and ask but I'm assuming that they were also implying that the tie rods should be done as well. These are the things I'm wondering about.
I see no relationship in doing brakes with suspension other than taking the wheels off. You may need a brake job but that is an unrelated repair.
PS: This would be my priority order: Brakes and steering are both safety related items. If the brakes are shot, I would fix the brakes first and then quickly address the the steering issues and then suspension. You would be right in combining steering and suspension as they are 'related'.
Salim
Last edited by salimshah; Mar 11, 2018 at 07:35 AM. Reason: Added PS
That's exactly what happens when you take car to a shop. They have vested interest in generating as much revenue as possible, so you get what you got.
Control arms do not have bearings. You have bushings.
Usually, you buy new entire CA assembly that comes with new ball joint. Buy aftermarket, about 2nd from the bottom price. 2nd or 3rd. No need to buy most expensive and definitely not the least costly.
You should replace sway bar bushings same time, I bet they are shot or, at least, fix them. very easy to do, done it several times, works like a champ.
Replace sway bar connecting rods. Go for ones that have zirks. You can grease them then and they last forever. Something like 20 bucks from parts store for set of two. Get VERY good vise grips as hex head in OEM ball on those strips in heartbeat and then you have to lock vise grips on the stud to undo nut. Aftermarket ones come with a normal nut on the stud, so it's very easy to replace or tighten.
Tie rod ends. Are they bad or not? Rule is to replace any part only if it's bad, not just because you are "there". Those are easy access components, so why bother. But if you were set on replacing tie rod ends then sure, replace inner tie rods same time, as they might be bent. Remove one and roll it on piece of glass. If it bounces, it's bent.
That's about it. At 170 000 struts are likely shot anyway, but you do not mention this, maybe been done already.
Btw, not to preach but. If you take car to a shop and they do free assessment, tell them something like "Oh, great, thank you very much! I appreciate this, I have very tight work schedule, let me figure it out when and I'll give you guys a call. You were great!" After all, they do this for living, not for charity, and "I'll DIY" is a bad form.
Control arms do not have bearings. You have bushings.
Usually, you buy new entire CA assembly that comes with new ball joint. Buy aftermarket, about 2nd from the bottom price. 2nd or 3rd. No need to buy most expensive and definitely not the least costly.
You should replace sway bar bushings same time, I bet they are shot or, at least, fix them. very easy to do, done it several times, works like a champ.
Replace sway bar connecting rods. Go for ones that have zirks. You can grease them then and they last forever. Something like 20 bucks from parts store for set of two. Get VERY good vise grips as hex head in OEM ball on those strips in heartbeat and then you have to lock vise grips on the stud to undo nut. Aftermarket ones come with a normal nut on the stud, so it's very easy to replace or tighten.
Tie rod ends. Are they bad or not? Rule is to replace any part only if it's bad, not just because you are "there". Those are easy access components, so why bother. But if you were set on replacing tie rod ends then sure, replace inner tie rods same time, as they might be bent. Remove one and roll it on piece of glass. If it bounces, it's bent.
That's about it. At 170 000 struts are likely shot anyway, but you do not mention this, maybe been done already.
Btw, not to preach but. If you take car to a shop and they do free assessment, tell them something like "Oh, great, thank you very much! I appreciate this, I have very tight work schedule, let me figure it out when and I'll give you guys a call. You were great!" After all, they do this for living, not for charity, and "I'll DIY" is a bad form.
It could that bigO did an upsell. They should not give you an opinion but demonstrate each item. Like play in the joint, cracked bushings, binding etc. Then all of the items should be addressed once as you would not like to do alignment after every repair. This is what should be the crux of your inquiry ,,, "Related repairs".
I see no relationship in doing brakes with suspension other than taking the wheels off. You may need a brake job but that is an unrelated repair.
PS: This would be my priority order: Brakes and steering are both safety related items. If the brakes are shot, I would fix the brakes first and then quickly address the the steering issues and then suspension. You would be right in combining steering and suspension as they are 'related'.
Salim
I see no relationship in doing brakes with suspension other than taking the wheels off. You may need a brake job but that is an unrelated repair.
PS: This would be my priority order: Brakes and steering are both safety related items. If the brakes are shot, I would fix the brakes first and then quickly address the the steering issues and then suspension. You would be right in combining steering and suspension as they are 'related'.
Salim
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That's exactly what happens when you take car to a shop. They have vested interest in generating as much revenue as possible, so you get what you got.
Control arms do not have bearings. You have bushings.
Usually, you buy new entire CA assembly that comes with new ball joint. Buy aftermarket, about 2nd from the bottom price. 2nd or 3rd. No need to buy most expensive and definitely not the least costly.
You should replace sway bar bushings same time, I bet they are shot or, at least, fix them. very easy to do, done it several times, works like a champ.
Replace sway bar connecting rods. Go for ones that have zirks. You can grease them then and they last forever. Something like 20 bucks from parts store for set of two. Get VERY good vise grips as hex head in OEM ball on those strips in heartbeat and then you have to lock vise grips on the stud to undo nut. Aftermarket ones come with a normal nut on the stud, so it's very easy to replace or tighten.
Tie rod ends. Are they bad or not? Rule is to replace any part only if it's bad, not just because you are "there". Those are easy access components, so why bother. But if you were set on replacing tie rod ends then sure, replace inner tie rods same time, as they might be bent. Remove one and roll it on piece of glass. If it bounces, it's bent.
That's about it. At 170 000 struts are likely shot anyway, but you do not mention this, maybe been done already.
Btw, not to preach but. If you take car to a shop and they do free assessment, tell them something like "Oh, great, thank you very much! I appreciate this, I have very tight work schedule, let me figure it out when and I'll give you guys a call. You were great!" After all, they do this for living, not for charity, and "I'll DIY" is a bad form.
Control arms do not have bearings. You have bushings.
Usually, you buy new entire CA assembly that comes with new ball joint. Buy aftermarket, about 2nd from the bottom price. 2nd or 3rd. No need to buy most expensive and definitely not the least costly.
You should replace sway bar bushings same time, I bet they are shot or, at least, fix them. very easy to do, done it several times, works like a champ.
Replace sway bar connecting rods. Go for ones that have zirks. You can grease them then and they last forever. Something like 20 bucks from parts store for set of two. Get VERY good vise grips as hex head in OEM ball on those strips in heartbeat and then you have to lock vise grips on the stud to undo nut. Aftermarket ones come with a normal nut on the stud, so it's very easy to replace or tighten.
Tie rod ends. Are they bad or not? Rule is to replace any part only if it's bad, not just because you are "there". Those are easy access components, so why bother. But if you were set on replacing tie rod ends then sure, replace inner tie rods same time, as they might be bent. Remove one and roll it on piece of glass. If it bounces, it's bent.
That's about it. At 170 000 struts are likely shot anyway, but you do not mention this, maybe been done already.
Btw, not to preach but. If you take car to a shop and they do free assessment, tell them something like "Oh, great, thank you very much! I appreciate this, I have very tight work schedule, let me figure it out when and I'll give you guys a call. You were great!" After all, they do this for living, not for charity, and "I'll DIY" is a bad form.
I did the struts a few months ago. I meant to say bushing not bearings when referring to the lower control arms, my bad.
I didn't tell them I would do it myself. Even if I did then oh well. I'm not explaining the whole story here. I just want advice specifically related to my questions.
Last edited by jwigley; Mar 12, 2018 at 04:06 PM.
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