Worn Lower Ball Joints
Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 179
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From: CA
Worn Lower Ball Joints
I was told the front lower ball joints are 'worn' and that the front suspension fix should be my next repair. They said various parts in the suspension are related and that if you change one thing out it' sa good idea to replace other parts while you are doing so - I'm assuming sway bar bushings, etc. The upper control arms are fine. I have no idea how 'urgent' this recommendation is. But I was curious, what would happen if a lower ball joint failed?
Lead Lap
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 693
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From: FL :(
Something like this could happen with a broken LBJ. I don't know what year your car is, but rockauto had some nice Raybestos ones for about $40 each when I needed them (1990-1994). They are great quality and made in Japan.
You should jack your car up and support it with kickstand and start some inspection on your suspension. If you are replacing lbj, you can replace both inner and outer tie rods since your pretty much there already. Gotta remember when changing those type of things an alignment should be done afterwards, so I said its best to change it all at once and only pay alignment once. As for lower ball joint failure, view the link below
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=340101
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=340101
Lexus Champion
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 4,078
Likes: 87
From: Birmingham, AL
strut bar bushings are usually the very first to go!
the cool thing about replacing the inner and outer tie rod ends (Toyota calls the inners "rack ends") is that you end up with that super tight-feeling steering of a new car!
the cool thing about replacing the inner and outer tie rod ends (Toyota calls the inners "rack ends") is that you end up with that super tight-feeling steering of a new car!
^^ agreed!! I replaced mine with some raybestos one and it sure does turn much better and tighter, can even do U-turn tighter too! And like LScowboyLS stated, you should look into the strut bar bushing too, you can get the whole bar or just replace the bushing itself which will be cheaper
If you replace one part or all of them, you still need an alignment. Also if you live anywhere that sees even marginally inclement winters, and you don't get regular alignments, you might find that you have lots of seize adjusters and will have to replace those parts anyways.
I just replaced my F&R swaybar links and bushings, rear carrier bushings, LBJs, UCAs, inner and outer tie rods and strut rod bushings and even without and alignment, there is a MASSIVE difference in the ride quality and precision! No clunks, no bangs, no slop, just pure luxury driving enjoyment.
I highly recommend replacing swaybar links every 30-50k depending on how rough your roads are. If you drive on silken ribbons of asphalt, with no crazy transitions into driveways, you can aim for that 50+K mark. If you drive over cobble stones, massive driveway transitions and generally rough roads, every 30k or less is a good preventative maintenance practice. Inexplicable clunks and bangs are often the swaybar links and at ~$20-40 per link, it's pretty cheap and easy to replace and gets you looking around for other issues before the become problems!
I just replaced my F&R swaybar links and bushings, rear carrier bushings, LBJs, UCAs, inner and outer tie rods and strut rod bushings and even without and alignment, there is a MASSIVE difference in the ride quality and precision! No clunks, no bangs, no slop, just pure luxury driving enjoyment.
I highly recommend replacing swaybar links every 30-50k depending on how rough your roads are. If you drive on silken ribbons of asphalt, with no crazy transitions into driveways, you can aim for that 50+K mark. If you drive over cobble stones, massive driveway transitions and generally rough roads, every 30k or less is a good preventative maintenance practice. Inexplicable clunks and bangs are often the swaybar links and at ~$20-40 per link, it's pretty cheap and easy to replace and gets you looking around for other issues before the become problems!
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From: CO
I replaced my front links with DEEZA off Rockauto a year ago, just bought some cheap rear ones on ebay, going to install them soon. Maybe that will help with popping sound at breaking?...
When I replaced both inner and outer tie rods, the steering got like on a new car, true.
When I replaced both inner and outer tie rods, the steering got like on a new car, true.
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Lexus Champion
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Birmingham, AL
Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 179
Likes: 1
From: CA
You should jack your car up and support it with kickstand and start some inspection on your suspension. If you are replacing lbj, you can replace both inner and outer tie rods since your pretty much there already. Gotta remember when changing those type of things an alignment should be done afterwards, so I said its best to change it all at once and only pay alignment once. As for lower ball joint failure, view the link below
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=340101
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=340101
Took a look, tx. Uh...gulp...think I'll make that appointment for the suspension replacement ASAP. I have been hearing quite a lot of creaking from the front on turns lately..comes and goes, but from what I am reading in this forum (this and other threads), that means 'worn suspension' just as the Lexus mechanic said.
Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 179
Likes: 1
From: CA
Awesome. As long as we are replacing ball joints and bushings, may as well do this as well. I miss that 'new ride' feel. Tlhanks!
Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 179
Likes: 1
From: CA
If you replace one part or all of them, you still need an alignment. Also if you live anywhere that sees even marginally inclement winters, and you don't get regular alignments, you might find that you have lots of seize adjusters and will have to replace those parts anyways.
I just replaced my F&R swaybar links and bushings, rear carrier bushings, LBJs, UCAs, inner and outer tie rods and strut rod bushings and even without and alignment, there is a MASSIVE difference in the ride quality and precision! No clunks, no bangs, no slop, just pure luxury driving enjoyment.
I highly recommend replacing swaybar links every 30-50k depending on how rough your roads are. If you drive on silken ribbons of asphalt, with no crazy transitions into driveways, you can aim for that 50+K mark. If you drive over cobble stones, massive driveway transitions and generally rough roads, every 30k or less is a good preventative maintenance practice. Inexplicable clunks and bangs are often the swaybar links and at ~$20-40 per link, it's pretty cheap and easy to replace and gets you looking around for other issues before the become problems!
I just replaced my F&R swaybar links and bushings, rear carrier bushings, LBJs, UCAs, inner and outer tie rods and strut rod bushings and even without and alignment, there is a MASSIVE difference in the ride quality and precision! No clunks, no bangs, no slop, just pure luxury driving enjoyment.
I highly recommend replacing swaybar links every 30-50k depending on how rough your roads are. If you drive on silken ribbons of asphalt, with no crazy transitions into driveways, you can aim for that 50+K mark. If you drive over cobble stones, massive driveway transitions and generally rough roads, every 30k or less is a good preventative maintenance practice. Inexplicable clunks and bangs are often the swaybar links and at ~$20-40 per link, it's pretty cheap and easy to replace and gets you looking around for other issues before the become problems!
The sway at bushing are held in by a horseshoe clamp and 2bolts per bushing(2 bushings) and can be changed out in by you in about 15mins/side.
The bushings help tighten things up but the links are what helps with the clunks.
The bushings help tighten things up but the links are what helps with the clunks.