Greetings all. Just replaced both knock sensors, bypass hose, and wire connector. Tried starting it and won't run. Acts like it's out of time. Any thoughts? Thanks

 

Go over your work. Check for all grounds ,, specially the one near the hidden bolt.

Knock sensors have nothing to do with the actual spark. They are part of feedback to to adjust timing and they adjustment range still keeps the timing within run condition.

Salim

 

Thank you sir. It's making me scratch my head. I need to take a step back think about it. I can keep it running by working the throttle but it's making a winning noise and won't idle. Plus it's for lack of better words puffing through the intake.

 

Okay I've checked and double checked every ground, wiring connection new spark plugs. Nothing ☹️ It will start but won't idle and runs rough. Any help would be VERY appreciated.

 

After missing or loose ground the next suspect area would be loose sensor connector (or unhooked connector) and then leaks. Hopefully you used fresh gaskets and torqued the hold downs to spec.

Beyond those, the issue can be unrelated or part of collateral damage.

Maybe worth while to trace the vacuum piping ... the underwood decal is very good reference.

Salim
pS: I can't emphasize enough about the blind ground connections between the firewall and engine. I had to do them by feel only ... sorry I dont remember how many wires are tied there .. but there were more than 2.

 

New gaskets torqued to speck new spark plugs. What's the chances some of the coil packs are bad?

 

New plugs? I hope you bought OEM.

A misfire [coilpack disfunction or founded plug] will be picked up by the ECU and Check engine light still come on.

Talking about CEL ... do you have one or even a pending code?

Salim

 

No codes. It did start to run rough when I pulled it into the garage to make the repair. Disconnect the battery when I started so any additional codes would have been cleared. I’m assuming. How long does it have to run for a code to pop up? It’s only ran a few minutes after I put it back together.

Another thing that’s strange is when I tap the gas pedal to keep it running the RPMs jump way up to around 5k. I just tap the pedal I don’t slam it to the floor. After the RPMs come down it sounds like it backfires through the throttle body.

 

I dont want to open another front , but please check up on IACV.

Plugs, vacuum, connectors can also be the culprit.

Salim

 

Is there a way to read the codes without a reader?

 

Not that I know off. The dumb readers are very cheap <$25. If you are DIYer it isa must have. I am seriously thinking of advanced reader (live).

Also the obdII readers do not cover all problems, but the definitely cover emission related issues.

Is the CEL on?

Salim

 

Puffing through the intake sounds like valve timing is off. Do inspect the cam sensors and solenoids.

If on Android smartypants phone, download Torque Pro app $5.00 and grab an ELM OBDII Bluetooth adapter and you $20 and read the codes yourself.

 

PS grabbed a mini vci obdii to serial usb adapter and loaded Teachstream v8.10 on Win7 and can see all the ECU's...
Win for $30!!

 

I’m a DUMBASS. I neglected to completely tighten the 12mm nuts that hold the throttle body to the upper intake. Tightened them up now back on the road. Thanks for all your help!!!

 

I give you the credit for doing the job right.

Glad it worked out for you.

Salim