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is it the starter??

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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 05:52 PM
  #16  
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We have to wait for the OP to confirm what is going on. If the solenoid is clicking [in fact it is thud if you touch the starter], then we can safely assume the contacts are bad.

If not then +12v has to be traced. It may turn out to be a bad solenoid but replacing terminals may not help him.

Salim
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Old Mar 16, 2017 | 06:37 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by thomas1
I have personally within the last year fixed two starters by replacing the solenoid contacts and plunger. Cost $15 from Amazon. In both cases the cars works great now.
Would you say the two videos (getting to the starter and rebuilding it) I linked above will get me through it? How long would you think it should take for a DIY novice?

Originally Posted by salimshah
If the solenoid is clicking [in fact it is thud if you touch the starter], then we can safely assume the contacts are bad.
Huh?
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Old Mar 16, 2017 | 08:58 AM
  #18  
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IMHO, take the time to trace the problem to the failing part. Then do the effort of fixing it.

Sorry I am getting on soap box .... one of the biggest problem with internet help is folks look for a solution to their problem instead of tracing the problem to the failing part and then fixing it.


Solenoid: This is a relay to switch hight current (from the fixed contact to plunger to the starter winding). The plunger also pulls the pinion gear of the starter to come out and mate with the flywheel.
The solenoid gets energized on the primary side (the terminal I mentioned in my previous post) from 'start' position of the key, safety interlock [PRND switch].

You can fail to start by
1. Not getting 12v to the solenoid.
2. You get 12v but the internal primary is broken and you can not form an electromagnet strong enough to pull the plunger [missing thud noise if you touch the solenoid]
3. Wear .. after a while the contacts start going bad and even if the solenoid plunger moves, the contact fail to provide low ohm connection. [We are dealing with 100s of amps or current and a small resistance causes large voltage drop].
4. Mechanical binding that prevents free motion of the plunger .. cold makes it worse.

Lot of folks giving you advice here are suggesting #3.

I on the other hand want to guide you to get to the root of the problem before you embark on something.

If it is not #1, you have the take the starter out and once it is out, you can have the shop bench test it.

What you can do .. is best left for you to figure out, based on tools and dexterity. Reman starters are available too. You have many options, but diagnose the problem first.

Salim
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Old Mar 16, 2017 | 06:47 PM
  #19  
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I agree with Salimshah, however since it is intermittent, the suspect are the starter contacts. What happens is the contacts physically get burned down so that when the plunger of the solenoid energizes the plunger ring doesn't always make proper contact with the two side contacts....here is a picture on Amazon, by the way this may not be the correct one for your starter....punch in your vehicle and the site will tell you if it is correct.
Amazon Amazon
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Old Mar 16, 2017 | 08:05 PM
  #20  
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Found this great picture on the other lexus site of bad starter contacts on a LS
http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...comment-496591
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 12:09 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by salimshah
IMHO, take the time to trace the problem to the failing part. Then do the effort of fixing it.
Sorry I am getting on soap box .... one of the biggest problem with internet help is folks look for a solution to their problem instead of tracing the problem to the failing part and then fixing it.
..Salim
I agree Salim, in principle, but I have no garage and very little spare time. When I finally do get the weather to spend a couple of hours in the driveway with this, I think it'd be wise for me to have the $15-$20 rebuild kit on hand. I certainly understand the concept of not "throwing parts at the problem" but it seems likelier and likelier that a rebuild fixes my starter.

Last edited by djeddieo; Mar 17, 2017 at 12:23 PM.
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 02:01 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by djeddieo
I agree Salim, in principle, but I have no garage and very little spare time. When I finally do get the weather to spend a couple of hours in the driveway with this, I think it'd be wise for me to have the $15-$20 rebuild kit on hand. I certainly understand the concept of not "throwing parts at the problem" but it seems likelier and likelier that a rebuild fixes my starter.
I'm with you on this one. Besides things sometimes break just taking them apart. Much better to be prepared up front.
I had to change these contacts too, the time getting it out and apart far outweighs the $20.
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Old Jul 14, 2017 | 12:56 PM
  #23  
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hey, I ended up trading the '99 for a 2006, so I don't need the starter rebuild kit any longer. I'll post in classified but $15 shipped if anyon'e interested....
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Old Jul 14, 2017 | 03:02 PM
  #24  
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Where did you get the kit? Does it include the plunger?
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Old Jul 15, 2017 | 04:09 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by JAB
Where did you get the kit? Does it include the plunger?
I ordered it online; yes it includes plunger and contacts. Here's the classified post:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx3...o-starter.html




Last edited by djeddieo; Jul 21, 2017 at 06:32 AM.
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Old Jul 20, 2018 | 07:43 AM
  #26  
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You guys are the best!

Had a annoying starting problem for a while that seemed like a battery issue. Found a bad cell and replaced the battery (under warranty) but no joy. Searched here and found the exact problem and the perfect solution. Ordered Victory Lap ND-34-LS-SOL kit (with just contacts & plunger) and Dorman 02349 kit (just in case). Problem solved!

Turned out all I really needed was the Victory Lap kit - and FWIW the plunger was only lightly eroded so I probably could've gotten away with using the old one. The contact OTOH was almost completely gone:

(Contact on right removed from 2000 RX300 at 211k miles)

Thanks!
Owen

Last edited by owenstrawn; Jul 20, 2018 at 08:00 AM.
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Old Jul 20, 2018 | 09:08 AM
  #27  
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There is a process step where you let the three pieces align when you rebuild the solenoid. You just lightly secure the two small copper pieces and then you push the plunger in contact position and then you secure the two small copper pieces. I used my small drill press to force the plunger down and used my head to keep the pressure on the drill side .. that freed my two hands to secure the small pieces.

Glad you solved your problem.

FYI ... we have this issue covered in the sticky "Having problems start here" thread that can quickly triage the problem down to the battery or the solenoid or the starter. It seems you had 2 things going on in any case.

Salim
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Old Aug 15, 2018 | 06:25 AM
  #28  
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Edit ... Please post post in the classified or payit forward. Each of those have their own set of rules. Payit forward ... you cant sell but only charge actual shipping cost. For classified, you need to be a member for a while.

Salim

Last edited by salimshah; Aug 15, 2018 at 08:13 AM. Reason: Sale items go in classified.
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