OK, here goes!

This past Friday evening my wife's 1997 ES300 wouldn't start. I went out to take a look at it and when I turned the key it clicked a couple of times. I turned it again and it made that nasty noise like a solenoid going out. I though "No big deal, I'll just replace the starter. Easy, right?

I purchase a starter, remove the old one, install the new one, reconnect the battery, turn the key and............nothing. Nothing at all. It's not only not starting, it now won't turn over at all! I remove the starter and take it back to where I'd bought it to have it tested. Before I left I put the charger on the battery. The new starter bench tests just fine so I go back to the house, reinstall the starter and the now charged battery, along with a new starter relay just in case, and it starts right up! I start it up a couple times, then have the wife drive it around the neighborhood a bit.

She comes back and parks it in the driveway for a couple of hours. I go out to make sure it starts and..........it won't even turn over again!

This morning a buddy brought over his tester and we found that the battery was low even though I'd charged it. I took the battery, (3 years old on a 72 month battery!), and sure enough it had a dead cell. On the bright side I still had the receipt for it so the new one didn't cost much at all after the old one was pro rated.

I brought the new battery home, installed it, and the car fired right up. I did that twice. Then I started it up again and went to pick her up from work in it. I shut it down and started it again for the ride home, got there, and parked it. That was at about 3:20 this afternoon. About 30 minutes ago the girls went to go to the store, and the SOB wouldn't start again!!!

HHEEELLLLPPPP!!!!!!

 

I have no idea if this might be related. Have you checked fuses? I recently went through starting issues but the car at least cranked. Its possible there is a short? See if the am2 fuse is blown. Again could be totally unrelated. I did a lot of research recently Check the ground cable.

 

Did the battery terminal clamps tighten good? The band clamps stretch over time and won't hold good enough for a good connection. I had the positive terminal fail like that, and replaced it with a marine battery clamp that holds onto the battery post and has a bolt with a wing nut on top that i attached the cable end to after removing the band clamp portion. To test for this problem, after a short drive feel the battery post and cable clamp to check for a very warm one. if it is very warm, you should replace the post clamp.

 

OK, which one is the "am2" fuse? I'll check it in the morning although all the fuses I looked at seemed fine. I'll check the ground cable too.

 

Yes, the battery terminal clamps tighten very well. But I'll try your idea anyway.......just as soon as I can get it started again that is.

 

The am2 fuse is in the fuse box which should be right next to the air filter. (mine is a 96 but I believe they are the same), there should be a diagram. There is also another fuse box right next to this one which is labeled "relay" you should find you fuel fuse in there. I recently changed my fuel fuse, a week later my fuel pump was out. I was told that that the fuel pump going bad was causing the battery to drain. I dont want to say for sure, this could be mis information. I still have yet to find out... anyone? I know there are so many possibilities. It drove me CRAZY !

 

I'll go check it in a sec.

I don't understand at all how a fuel pump going bad could in any way do that.

More likely my ongoing problem is that the alternator is going bad and not keeping the battery charged enough to kick on the starter relay IMO.

 

You will find it helpful to follow trouble shooting guidelines as to not make unnecessary repairs. When your engine would not crank the first thing to check is the battery (load test) and connections. Given what you have already done I would check the charging system and cable connections.

 

You need to re-read the original post. The battery WAS tested and found to be defective. (Dead cell.) The starter was also unquestionably going bad so replacing it and the starter relay after almost 158,000 miles was no big deal.

After installing a new starter, new starter relay, and a new battery, the car started right up and was fine for about 7 or 8 more starts, then it would not turn over again. My buddy brought his test meter over again the next morning and we found that the new battery was at 12.4 volts, just fine. When we turned the key this time it started right up again with no problem. While it was running we tested the alternator and it was found to be charging at 14.5 volts, so no problem there either.

In the now 6 days since all this was looked at the car has failed to start, meaning it won't even turn over, twice. I still have no idea why this is.

As an aside to faithmkss, the fuse you refer to doesn't make any difference at all when you have a brand new battery, and when the engine won't even turn over the fuel pump is kind of irrelevant anyway. Also, I know where the fuse box is and when you look at the diagram inside the lid there is no fuse labeld as "am2". ;-)

 

Just a thought.

Are you losing coolant by any chance?

If yes, you may have a blown head gasket, or a cracked block, causing coolant to enter the cylinders, causing hydrolock, and preventing your engine from turning over.

Phil

 

I need help as well 2000 rx300 I have no fire to the starter. Installed new battery still no start starter not turning at all, I checked the cables got power to everything but starter. I just refreshed starter this summer been working fine. I am at my wits end any help????

 

You need to watch this video for your starting problems troubleshooting. Don't just go replacing parts, there was nothing wrong with starter in first place.

 

I think you're having an electrical connection issue. And it's probably somewhere in the starting system, such as the ignition cylinder.

I was first thinking that you were having a parasitic draw, but it doesn't make sense for the car to die after only 30 minutes. In addition, you said the battery tests out fine. Lastly, I was thinking about starter solenoid contacts, but you said the starter has been replaced (which includes the contacts).

Lastly, it could be something as simple as a neutral/parking switch in the transmission. Check your linkages.

p.s.: In the times that the engine does not turn over, when you turn your key to the ON position (NOT cranking), do you see all the warning lights, as well as the CEL?

 

It might be the ignition switch.

 

it sounds like a charging issue and a very fast battery drain
you possibly are draining the battery somehow
any recent wiring or new electronics added?
the wires that go to battery the positive and ground check for corrosion. If theres corrosion then thats another possible reason for bad charging which means car will most likely only start on a fresh charge or jump.
The wires that go to the starter and alternator(mainly) check there for corrosion as well.
The corrosion is white or green you can clean it off with a wire brush and try everything again with a fresh battery.
Another thing if you have a multimeter you need to place it on the battery terminals after the fresh charge. It will give your voltage reading. With the car off check to see if its draining(the voltage is lowering). If its lowering with the car off than thats a hard problem to fix over the interweb.
If its not draining with the car off than try it with the car running. Give it 30 seconds for the alternator to give its all and if the voltage starts to continuously drop than you need a new alternator.

I hope its simple but cars suck like that

let me know if the power drains with the car off i have some things you can try to isolate the problem