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Seized lug nuts

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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 08:50 AM
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Default Seized lug nuts

After 18 years and 245K miles two lug nuts on my right front wheel seized. One stud snapped off before I gave up. My mechanic is now installing new studs on that hub, but what should I do on the remaining hubs to prevent this from happening again? Would WD-40 on the threads be sufficient? Thanks.

Last edited by JAB; Mar 10, 2017 at 09:17 AM. Reason: typo
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 10:25 AM
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technically you can just wire brush the studs each time you remove your wheel. Typically i would not use any lubricant on the studs that would alter the torque spec but WD40 seems light enough and should displace any moisture that will cause rust on the threads.
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 10:29 AM
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Only time I had this problem is when the shop that rotated the tires over-torqued them a few weeks earlier.

Blew a tire on the highway, pulled over.
I couldn't remove any of the lug nuts with the car tool kit
Called Triple-A, guy had a four way wrench. That snapped the lug key.
Had to get flat-bed towed to the garage that did it.
Then had to overnight a pair of new keys.
Yelled at the garage manager until they covered my expenses

Now every time a garage touches my tires I loosen and re-tighten the lugs by hand.
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 10:33 AM
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It is surprising that the nuts were never removed in 246K miles.

WD40 is one of the most common agent that is used by consumers, but regrettably most of the use is improper ... I should add it may not be harmful to use, but it is usually improper agent. It is has lubricating oil, but has a tendency to replace the right lubricant if present and if not user thinks that they have added the right lubricant.

Other than rust, over tightened lug nuts can cause the bind to happen.

What to do:
Use a penetrant rust remover like PB Blaster, liquid wrench etc and even wd40 (but this will take longer). Take necessary precautions to prevent the penetrant to get to the brake pads. Repeated little squirts and patience (give it time to work) will allow the rust to break up.

Prior to assembly use anti-seize compound sparingly. There is a debate that one has to adjust torque once the compound is applied.

Maintenance: Every 6 months or at least every year, undo the lug nuts and re-torque them and check torque again in few days. Also check the spare has the right amount to air. Else you may end up stranded.

Salim
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 12:09 PM
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Salim: You're kidding about the lug nuts never being removed in 246K aren't you?

Anyways, appreciate the various suggestions. I realize that excessive tightening would be the most common explanation, but Costco is the only place that services my wheels & tires (other than me on occasion) and they do torque 'by the book.' I think it is simply age, salt corrosion, etc.
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by JAB
Salim: You're kidding about the lug nuts never being removed in 246K aren't you?
Surely I was.

Salim
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 05:27 PM
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Be careful putting lubricant on the wheel studs - the tire jockeys with their impact guns screw those things on tighter than tight and with any lubricant will torque them way over spec. Anti-sieze compound may be better.
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 08:01 PM
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I appreciate the suggestions to use anti-seize. But I don't agree that Costco tire workers are typical 'tire jockeys' with air guns. They strike me as being very conscientious.
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Old Mar 11, 2017 | 10:39 AM
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OK, good. Just hope you don't get the "new guy"!

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Old Mar 13, 2017 | 07:58 PM
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Anytime you have someone install wheels, losen and retorque eack lug to get them back to spec. I have had more than one shop make them so tight, I couldnt break them free. Easily 150#s od torque
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Old Mar 13, 2017 | 08:41 PM
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When I worked in a shop there was a lot more concern about something being too loose than too tight. Attitude was:
  • Too loose and there is a problem - installer's problem.
  • Too tight and hard to remove - next guy's problem.
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