P0330 Knock Sensor, 15 min. Hack Repair...
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 289
Likes: 27
From: fl
Hello all
Bobster999, I got the inspiration from your post but I dont want to alter those wire near the ECU so this is what I did.
This is my first time to contribute a post/reply but long time lurker. I had this P0330 code too. This code detects knock on your bank 2 w/c is the radiator side
I did it the hardway by changing the knock sensors, after putting back everything, the code came back in 10min of test drive. I changed all sensor, harness and gasket. SO my next option is to hack this P0330 code AS I DONT WANT TO REPEAT THE WHOLE PROCESS of opening the top of the engine. Since I have the old harness I did the splicing at the harness end and now I dont have code, the car can go overdirve again,,,, but I can hear knocking/pinging/rattling in the engine when it needs more gas or when I accelerate
I read some where that knocking is bad for the engine and the way to remove knocking is to increase the octane level of the gasoline you put in the gas tank. I already am using 93 octane so now I add NOS octane booster and/or 108 octane booster, every time I fill up,,, and knocking is diminished but I can still hear it once in a while when I enter the expressway vaguely.
My verdict is that the knock sensor is detecting a knock in your engine that is why we got the code to begin with, replacing/hacking the sensor might help your situation but the knock is still there. and you might need a mechanic to fix this eventually by adjusting/replacing the valves or piston or something else. I am not a mechanic so I dont know. I dont want to buy a new car either
Bobster999, I got the inspiration from your post but I dont want to alter those wire near the ECU so this is what I did.
This is my first time to contribute a post/reply but long time lurker. I had this P0330 code too. This code detects knock on your bank 2 w/c is the radiator side
I did it the hardway by changing the knock sensors, after putting back everything, the code came back in 10min of test drive. I changed all sensor, harness and gasket. SO my next option is to hack this P0330 code AS I DONT WANT TO REPEAT THE WHOLE PROCESS of opening the top of the engine. Since I have the old harness I did the splicing at the harness end and now I dont have code, the car can go overdirve again,,,, but I can hear knocking/pinging/rattling in the engine when it needs more gas or when I accelerate
I read some where that knocking is bad for the engine and the way to remove knocking is to increase the octane level of the gasoline you put in the gas tank. I already am using 93 octane so now I add NOS octane booster and/or 108 octane booster, every time I fill up,,, and knocking is diminished but I can still hear it once in a while when I enter the expressway vaguely.
My verdict is that the knock sensor is detecting a knock in your engine that is why we got the code to begin with, replacing/hacking the sensor might help your situation but the knock is still there. and you might need a mechanic to fix this eventually by adjusting/replacing the valves or piston or something else. I am not a mechanic so I dont know. I dont want to buy a new car either
I drive mine however i want to with no noise. And I only use 87 octane.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 3
Likes: 2
From: Il
Hello Bobster999
You are right, I could have other problems than the actual P0330 code. Hey the car is going overdrive, and the code has not comeback, so its working for me.
Thanks for the hack method BTW. No argument there and no complaints either. Thanks again.
You are right, I could have other problems than the actual P0330 code. Hey the car is going overdrive, and the code has not comeback, so its working for me.
Thanks for the hack method BTW. No argument there and no complaints either. Thanks again.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Md
Holy Crap! This actually seemed to work! I had the follow codes: P0171, P0330, P1135, P1351, P1354 Now I only have P0171. The car is running so much better now and it will shift into O/D! Thanks a lot Bobster! I owe you a beer!
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1
Likes: 2
From: CA
I have a 2000 ES300, and this works! As far as I can tell, runs as well as ever.
Thanks to Bobster999 and cwsteini
As a note to ES300 users, the location of the pin is very similar to the ones pictures shown above, but the knock sensor wires are both white/clear (and adjacent to one another). For the specific location, you should refer to a repair manual. In my particular car, the wire for knock sensor 2 was indicated by red tape. To be more specific, on the row on the far side of the clip of the pin you are looking for, there will be two white wires between five and three wires on either side (same row). The white wire to the right of the five wires will be for knock sensor 1. The white wire to the left of the three wires will be for knock sensor 2.
Cheers!
Thanks to Bobster999 and cwsteini
As a note to ES300 users, the location of the pin is very similar to the ones pictures shown above, but the knock sensor wires are both white/clear (and adjacent to one another). For the specific location, you should refer to a repair manual. In my particular car, the wire for knock sensor 2 was indicated by red tape. To be more specific, on the row on the far side of the clip of the pin you are looking for, there will be two white wires between five and three wires on either side (same row). The white wire to the right of the five wires will be for knock sensor 1. The white wire to the left of the three wires will be for knock sensor 2.
Cheers!
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: TX
How to find the connector?
This is for the people that don't want to pay big money to replace a bad knock sensor. I got the dreaded P0330 code saying the #2 knock sensor circuit was bad. I was driving 46 miles each way to work and had to stop and reset the light before I could there because she went in limp mode and I would lose overdrive. I just had to remove all of the same stuff to replace my leaking valve covers just a couple of months ago. I did not want to do that again. The ecu is looking for a small voltage between a set range to decide if that is normal and won't throw a code as long as it sees that voltage for each sensor. So I decided that since there are 2 sensors, and only one is bad right now, I will just feed both sensors from the good #1 bank sensor and the ecu will be happy. So i cut the wire feeding the #2 sensor and spliced it into the #1 sensor at the ECU. Anyway, it took me 15 mins and NO money to fix it. She drives as good as ever and no more CHECK ENGINE LITE. Im not telling anyone to do it, im just telling you what i did so you do what you will or won't. 
Don't Hate!
Don't Hate!
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: New York
Bobster999, special thanks for figuring out this knock sensor problem. I did it yesterday but it didn't work and i could not understand why but did not give up tried it again but made sure my connetion were done right. Well my 1995 ls400 has no more engine light and it pass emission with flying colors today.
Thanks
lightz
Thanks
lightz
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: ga
which wires do I use on a 96 es300
This is for the people that don't want to pay big money to replace a bad knock sensor. I got the dreaded P0330 code saying the #2 knock sensor circuit was bad. I was driving 46 miles each way to work and had to stop and reset the light before I could there because she went in limp mode and I would lose overdrive. I just had to remove all of the same stuff to replace my leaking valve covers just a couple of months ago. I did not want to do that again. The ecu is looking for a small voltage between a set range to decide if that is normal and won't throw a code as long as it sees that voltage for each sensor. So I decided that since there are 2 sensors, and only one is bad right now, I will just feed both sensors from the good #1 bank sensor and the ecu will be happy. So i cut the wire feeding the #2 sensor and spliced it into the #1 sensor at the ECU. Anyway, it took me 15 mins and NO money to fix it. She drives as good as ever and no more CHECK ENGINE LITE. Im not telling anyone to do it, im just telling you what i did so you do what you will or won't. Don't Hate!
Don't Hate!
