I already posted how to do this... If you dont understand what i wrote, this job may not be for you...

 

I had that same problem while rewiring is an easy fix, I found that replacing the injectors ($42) remanufactured from advanced and code went away and I'm running great again.

 

I've read a lot of posts on this issue. It is amazing to me that everyone assumes that the sensor is bad and goes about trying to fix that or bypass that. I fell into that trap, I had the P0330, and ended up replacing both sensors and sub harness myself, bought quality parts for cheap online and ended up spending less than $150 for the whole job. But then the CEL came back.

After talking to a lexus mechanic and doing some research I fixed the issue by replacing my injectors and adding fuel additive to my fuel system. My car had 150k miles when this happened, and for some of you on here saying you have 200k + miles the reason your knock sensor is coming on is because your car actually IS knocking. And the ingnition timing the ECU is doing to try and correct it is not enough to fix the problem caused by injectors being clogged or excessive carbon build up in the combustion chamber.

 

Before I made time for the job I tried multiple additives and used premium fuel for about 3 weeks.. It didn't fix the condition. Had to clear the code multiple times a day. Changed the sensors and harness, no problems since. No additives and using regular fuel.

 

A Lexus Knock Sensor is a device that permits the motor to operate at its best while it trims fuel usage. Lexus Knock Sensors operate with a computer chip to keep track of spark timing at all times in order to prevent engine knock, which may cause harm. This specialized part makes certain you are running at maximum performance for the minimal volume of fuel. You computer will introduce a timing spark knock that the sensor must pickup to keep your vehicle MPG as low as possible. If you did this fix you have also noticed very poor MPG.

 

I use premium gas, no noticeable MPG reduce.
The only difference I noticed is that when I push hard to accelerate, the engine sound is a little different, but no noticeable knocking sound. Perhaps I loss some MPG during this process, but overall no significant loss.

The reason I made such conclusion is that, I drove it from CA to TX, the MPG is around 20, which is the same as the last time I drove from WI to TX, when both knock sensors are good.

 

They are still using one knock sensor. If I remember correctly many cars only used one back in the day (yes I'm sure it was centrally located). I would guess that the risk would be detonation on the unmonitored bank. Using premium fuel would make this a much lower risk.

 

Im running 22.4 mpg @ 65 mph

 

I spliced black wire into the clear wire. Erased the code. Took car for test dive and as soon as I hit 45 MPH It started throwing a P0330 code and lose of high gear also.Thinking it might be a bad splice I redid the splice and repeated test drive. Same result. Any other ideas on this 2002 RX 300 or should I just put the black wire together,button up the glove box and take it to the garage. I'm a senior citizen and no longer able to do any major repairs any longer. :

 

THIS IS PURE GENIUS! Thanks bobster999. We did this and VSC and check engine lights gone. RX300 2002 196000 runs like jewel. 2 months and 2100 miles later no problems , no codes and no pending. Best tip on a great forum.

 

Shhhhh... Not so loud! There are a few "Haters" out there. LOL, ... But seriously tho, Glad it helped you and others out as it did for me. I do love my ride and I will minimize repair costs when and where i can. Virtually All luxury vehicles get expensive to repair and maintain as they get older. If or when i have to go back in the the top of the motor, I will buy a new sensor at that time.

 

I see no reason for any one to hate.


Salim

 

I'm getting 20.5 MPG at 70, was getting 16.8. Every 3rd fill-up is with premium. Using Techron too.

 

Hello all

Bobster999, I got the inspiration from your post but I dont want to alter those wire near the ECU so this is what I did.

This is my first time to contribute a post/reply but long time lurker. I had this P0330 code too. This code detects knock on your bank 2 w/c is the radiator side

I did it the hardway by changing the knock sensors, after putting back everything, the code came back in 10min of test drive. I changed all sensor, harness and gasket. SO my next option is to hack this P0330 code AS I DONT WANT TO REPEAT THE WHOLE PROCESS of opening the top of the engine. Since I have the old harness I did the splicing at the harness end and now I dont have code, the car can go overdirve again,,,, but I can hear knocking/pinging/rattling in the engine when it needs more gas or when I accelerate

I read some where that knocking is bad for the engine and the way to remove knocking is to increase the octane level of the gasoline you put in the gas tank. I already am using 93 octane so now I add NOS octane booster and/or 108 octane booster, every time I fill up,,, and knocking is diminished but I can still hear it once in a while when I enter the expressway vaguely.

My verdict is that the knock sensor is detecting a knock in your engine that is why we got the code to begin with, replacing/hacking the sensor might help your situation but the knock is still there. and you might need a mechanic to fix this eventually by adjusting/replacing the valves or piston or something else. I am not a mechanic so I dont know. I dont want to buy a new car either

 

These are the picture of the harness