That has no possibility of working... If youre concerned about cutting and splicing a wire then i suggest you spend the big bux and replace the sensors.

 

I agree, very simplistic. I really have no trouble understanding the concept (or performing the steps) in reading the forum again I notice i am not the only one that has the same issue. At this point the fix is done and confirmed correct (check continuity between both wires with multimeter) it will actually shift into OD as long as I hit the interstate within about 4 miles of leaving home. So it kinda worked. At this point my theory is perhaps I have cracked motor mounts, and so the other knock sensor is kicking off after driving a while, or as a cruel coincidence the other knock sensor is actually starting to go bad... (Any input would be good) i am going to inspect motor mounts today, if they are fine, i am wondering exactly what electrical signal a good knock sensor is sending to the computer, because if both sensors are bad, i am wondering how i may be able to cut both wires just before the computer and then using some electronic components from radioshack maybe put together a little board to output the same signal to the computer and trick it into thinking both are good. Or more simple than that if it is exact same signal as any other sensor at the computer maybe tie both wires into another sensor wire at the computer. Bobster, what will you do when your p0325 sensor goes bad? The other idea i have is to get a cheap obd-II reader and if / when i have to jump off the interstate for gas i just delete the codes at that point. Btw since the partially working fix my mpg has gone from 11 avg to 20mpg avg. i am sure thats just a result of not running 4k rpm @ 60 mph. Interstate speed limit here is 75mph so when OD Is out i have to stay on hwy.

 

If you are getting a code for the other sensor then it probably is bad also. I dont recommend a novice person to troubleshoot a problem such as the problem youre describing. Sorry my friend, sometimes you cant win them all.

 

Well... I will admit that I have only been fixing cars for 15 years and my expertise is in an unrelated field. I can just change both knock sensors, just rather spend the time and money on something else. Good luck to you.

 

So I did the hack but my bad bank was 1 not 2 so I cut the white clear wire vs black one... I drove on hwy for 30 miles ...while stopping once and turning off car... No light ..will report in a week ..but my theory is if One sensor bad must be electrical harness... I guess will see... 2001 rx300 w 107 k

 

Thanks Bobster
You've saved me countless hours with this fix. It is as easy as you said. you must have spent hours researching this, which wires to splice into. Mine is a 2001 RX 300 it also was the black wire I cut and spliced/soldered into the clear wire.
Wires are at the backside/doorside of the bottom plug in the ECU.
Got any ideas where to splice the wires when the #1&2 knock sensors both go out?
Still works perfect a month later!

 

*************************** DISCLAIMER ***************************************

Beware that depending on county and state, tampering/modifying Emission related electronics constitutes a crime.

Club Lexus does not endorse or recommend the procedure outlined in this thread and instead encourages its members and readers to get the proper repairs done.

***************************** End Disclaimer ***********************************

Salim

 

Salim
My vehicle is only used offroad.

 

Its a disclaimer, so lets leave it at that. Not all counties and states have the emission standard. Here is Austin, TX emissions are enforced [cant even idle in front of city offices], but we have Formula 1 races.

Salim

 

cheers mate,

just did this for a P0325 worked a treat.. only bought the car tuesday, would only let me test drive it around the block so never hit more than 50-60km/hr, bought it then CEL came on driving home once i hit 80km/hr.. state law here says the dealer doesn't need to give warranty when it's done over 200,000km (~125k miles) so thought i was left with a lemon and huge fix bill.. well i still kinda got the lemon but atleast now can avoid fixing the knock sensors for now (will do them eventually.. for now 2 days after buying a car i just want to have 4th gear)

 

That's one unethical dealer.

Hook up a code reader next time. You can read any stored codes. If they cleared the codes emissions test readiness will be false. The car has to be driven for a specific period at various speeds to get it back to true.

See the attached for example readiness protocols. It doesn't list RX300, but our engine is there. It was linked off this doc: http://epa.ohio.gov/portals/27/echec...dinessInfo.pdf

 

Yea thats pretty sad that someone would do that. I posted this because most people need their vehicle running now. They dont have time to wait when your car is down. And/or dont have plenty of money to fix now. Older luxury vehicles are notorious for sucking your wallet dry. I stop the bleeding, or at least minimize it when possible. I enjoy my car and will do what i need to to keep her running. I dont consider the "hack" a permanent fix. But mine still works great. If it aint broke, dont fix it.

 

Thanks Bobster999 for this tip.

FYI: On a 99-00 ES300 both knock sensor wires are clear.

Does anyone know what the knock sensor voltage is, that the ECU is looking for?

 

Can you please give me the details on how to do it? Thanks

 

For future reference, on MOST not all, the scan tool will tell you the last time the CEL was cleared. It will state how many miles it has been driven since the DTC's were cleared.