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I have a 2001 RX300 for my daughters when they start it from cold with NO a/c on when it starts up it squeals loudly like a slipping belt but then stops within a 5 second period anyone have any ideas that i can check to rectify this issue ??
Belts are new had a new timing belt put on 3 months ago . Had it tightened must be a bearing in a pulley because it is only on for about 5 seconds then all quiet. Once it warms up same thing it;s good but from cold it squeals.
Tensioner pulley bearing is shot. Pretty easy to replace.
I'm going to 2nd that. It happened on my DIL's RX at 120k mi. +. I had changed the TB at 97K mi. and since the bearings (WP, upper idler & tensioner) were smooth as silk, I chose not to replace them. When the squeal started (was for about 5-10 seconds then it would quit) I tore all of the TB area back apart because it sounded like it was coming from there. I spun the bearings (WP, idler and tensioner) and they were absolutely like silk! Since I had spent a day trying to determine the origin, with no success, I decided to change all of those parts. It got rid of the squeal but had no idea why, so I used a die grinder and thin cut-off blade and cut the old parts apart. All 3 parts use the same size bearings, just over a 1/4 in. The water pump was like new at 120K mi. +, the idler was like new (beautiful lube in both) and the tensioner pulley was bone dry! I miced all bearings with a digital mic and all were exactly the same! I believe the reason the tensioner gets bone dry of grease is that it has only 1 row of bearings and both the others have 2. The race was perfect even except for a fine white line where where the ***** run and that buffed right off with a polshing wheel. Those Japanese make some fine parts, run 'em bone dry and they just whimper- absolutely amazing!!!
Interesting side note: the bearinghs are "sealed" but it's easy to grease them. Using a fine pick, the rubber seals can be popped right out then you can grease and pop the seals right back in. I use the old pulley's as idlers on my belted equipment to stop belt whip.
Any video of the Tennsioner Pulley replacement available??? Or any video on how to replace the Bearings in the tensioner that someone could send so I can get it fixed ? Please
If you started the car without PS belt and AC belt, and the noise disappears, that will give you a better clue.
Don't even have to remove them for a quick preliminary check on the squeal. Just spray a little water from a spray bottle on 'em and if the noise stops instantly, you know it's the belts, either bad or need adjusting.
Tensioner pulley is part of the tb change process [it is optional, but look at the TB replacement video/procedure].
The only problem is that the tensiner pulley noise should stay squeeling after few minutes.
Mostlikely culprit is the wrong tension of the v-belt or a bad v-belt. [IF you run with a bad tension, a new v-belt can go bad pretty quickly]
Salim
Salim, read my post. That's fact from the real world. If I had not done exactly what I reported I wouldn't have believed it myself. I only report fact, not fiction. The squeal would only last for about 10 seconds at the most and then disappear. It would only do it at start-up, no other time. Though there was not a trace of grease on the bearing, absolutely bone dry. I still have all the ***** from all the bearings and they all mic and look exactly alike. I believe I still have the 2 halves of the pulley (race) even. If I were more computer literate I'd post pictures of the parts.
Somewhere in the distant past you'll also find posts by me about ANOTHER squeal problem that involved drive belts. That was a totally different issue, though the squeal sounded quite a bit alike, the 2 issues were not at the same time and were in no way connected.
We all share our experiences here and at times they are different (as in this case). Squeal from my ideller was persistent and that neither proves or disproves your real life experience. It is just another data point.
I value your opinion (more than mine) as you have more hands on experience.