Does any one has this switchable flip key case? http://www.ebay.com/itm/UPGRADE-your...51006307400%26

 

I just purchased a used 2002 LS430 and needed to add 2 additional master keys, one with keyless entry and one without. I purchased the 2 keys from Sewell Lexus online with great satisfaction (parts #89070-50660 and 89785-60180). I now have 4 keys, 2 masters with keyless entry, 1 regular master, and 1 valet key. Thanks to all the prior posts which helped guide the programming of my new keys. It took some additional trial and error on both sets of instructions, but I eventually got the pattern figured out for me. Hope my additional notes help you!

Keyless Entry Programming. Lock. Unlock. Trunk. (TTT notes)
1. Sit inside the car. Close the driver’s door. All other doors closed also.
2. Lock the doors with the lock button.
3. Start the car with the original working master key. Wait a few seconds. Turn off the car and remove the original working master key.
4. Open the driver’s door by pulling on the handle. Do not unlock with the button or manually unlock. Just pull the handle and Open the door. Driver’s door is now Open.
5. Within 5 seconds, Insert and Remove the original working master key from the ignition switch TWICE. (In Out In Out).
6. Within several seconds, Close and Open the driver’s door TWICE. (Close Open Close Open).
7. Insert and Remove the original working master key from the ignition switch. (In Out).
8. Close the driver’s door. (Close).
9. Within several seconds, Open and Close the driver’s door TWICE, adding one final Open. (Open Close Open Close Open).
10. Insert original working master key into the ignition switch.
11. Close the driver’s door. (Close).
12. Switch ignition ON then OFF ONE TIME only - this will put the car in ADD mode.
13. Remove the original working master key from the ignition.
14. System should now Lock and Unlock vehicle one time automatically.
15. Within several seconds, on the new key being programmed, press and hold UNLOCK button followed immediately with LOCK button so that you are holding down both buttons at the same time. Hold them for a few seconds. Release the buttons. (The original instructions indicate to depress the buttons simultaneously, which did not seem to work for me after several tries, so I varied how to push the buttons.)
16. Within 3 seconds, press and release UNLOCK button.
17. System should now Lock and Unlock the car once to confirm registration of the new key. (or twice to indicate registration has failed per the original post)
18. Exit programming mode by opening driver’s door.
19. Test Keyless Entry functions on the new key. Lock. Unlock. Trunk.
These steps FINALLY worked for me!!! Good luck!!! TTT

Security Immobilizer Programming. Start Engine. (TTT notes)
1. Have all windows up and doors shut.
2. Stand outside the vehicle.
3. From outside, Lock the doors with the original working master key by pressing LOCK button.
4. From outside, Unlock the driver’s door with the original working master key by pressing UNLOCK once.
5. Enter the vehicle, and close the driver’s door. Press the lock button (by the window switches) once to lock the doors.
6. Start the car for about 5 seconds, then turn the car off, and remove the original working master key.
7. Insert the original working master key back into the ignition.
8. Within 35 seconds, do the following (Make these next moves very precise and without any variation in your motions, which seemed to help):
a) Turn the key to the ACC position, being careful not to turn too far. (key in ACC position)
b) Turn the key from ACC to ON position five times ending in the ACC position. (ON ACC, ON ACC, ON ACC, ON ACC, ON ACC); do this somewhat quickly in about 1 second cycles for each ON ACC motion.
c) Open and Close the driver's door SIX times. (Open Close Open Close Open Close Open Close Open Close Open Close). Do not unlock the door with the button – just pull the handle and the door will unlock during your first Open.
d) Remove the original master key
9. Within 10 seconds insert New Key into the ignition, and turn to "ON".
10. Leave the New Key inserted until the red security light stops flashing (mine took about 60 seconds; other posts say up to 90 – 120 seconds).
11. After the flashing stops, remove New Key from ignition.
12. Depress the brake pedal forcefully ONCE to exit the programming mode.
13. Wait 15 seconds to allow the computer to reset.
14. Test New Key by inserting into ignition. The red security light should go off. Attempt to start the vehicle.
These steps FINALLY worked for me!!! Good luck!!! TTT

 

Thanks ttomasic. I already programmed my keyless entry remote followed by my # 25 post of this thread.

 

There appear to be multiple techniques for programing the ECU to a key's immobilizer chip - the technique above involving the turning the key from ACC to On and opening and closing doors etc..... and the technique that involves stepping on the accelerator a number of times and then the brake pedal a number of times, etc....

My question is are there multiple paths to the same ends? This seems a little counterintuitive - one would think that there is only one way to program the ECU for keys.

My struggles surround programing key cards. I can not seem to get the ECU to recognize the transponder chips in the plastic key cards. I have used the "stepping on accelerator/brake technique" to successfully program a new Master key (5x on accelerator, 6x on brake), and I have also successfully programed a Valet key to be a non-master key (4x on accelerator and 5x on brake). I also successfully cleared the ECU of key codes - except for the Master KEy I did this with (6x on accelerator and 7x on brake) to purge the ECU of unused/too many transponder ID's. This worked because I verified that my spare programed Master and non-master Valet key would not start the car. Then reprogramed both.

Is there a different set of instructions for the Key Cards? Anyone had any success programing Key Cards for a 99 RX 300 (I read that the original key cards that shipped with the '99 did not have a transponder chip)?

Thanks - I have been trying to put together a cheat-sheet flow chart for this to help understand all the subtleties, but still have some gaps, apparently.

Chris

 

Your understanding is correct that the wallet key (flat in a plastic) does not have the magnetic piece that enables the imobilizer.

Some time later, Lexus started providing the magnet too. [not just RX]

The bottom portion of the remote (electronics portion) has the magnet. You may be able to cannibalize form a old remote and program the ecu to accept it.

Salim

 

Thanks for the reply. The plastic cards I purchased actually have the "chip" in them - they are behind a small pop off piece, and resemble a small magnet. Anyone had any luck programing an ECU to recognize these factory wallet keys - seller represented that they are compatible with a '99.

Thanks again.

Chris

 

Here are some pics of my new flip key remote.

 

I got the transponder chips programmed by following methods only (no other methods work):
1. Insert the existing master key into the ignition. (Note: The immobilizer light should go out immediately).
2. Within fifteen seconds, depress and release the accelerator (gas) pedal five times.
3. Within twenty seconds, depress and release the brake pedal six times, and remove the master key from the ignition.
4. Within ten seconds insert the new key into the ignition. (Note: The immobilizer light should remain non-light at this time).
5. Within ten seconds, depress and release the accelerator (gas) pedal one time and observe the immobilizer light will start to flash a few seconds after depressing the accelerator (gas) pedal.
6. After about eighty or ninety seconds (80/90), the new key is registered and the immobilizer light will stop flashing and go off.
7. Remove the new key from the ignition and simultaneously depress and release the brake and accelerator (gas) pedals one time to close the immobilizer onboard programming procedure.
8. Wait ten seconds, then insert the new key into the ignition and if the programming procedure was properly done, the vehicle should start when the ignition is turned to the start position.

 

Okay I need help! So I had a local locksmith cut me two replacement keys recently. I used the original transmitters that came out of my broken OEM keys and put them in. Mind you they both worked perfectly fine prior to. The problem was the keys were braking off from the fob/remotes. Anyways, 1 key works perfect, while the other one only locks/unlocks but when I put the key in and turn to start it doesn't recognize the coding and won't start. I have the master key card which has a skeleton key and transponder on it. I hold it up next to the ignition and the car will start with the non operating new key. I tried all the suggested methods in this entire thread to reprogram but can't get it to work. I get to the point of pressing and depressing the brake and gas pedals etc. Remove the master key and the security light stays off, even after I put the new key in. I press and release the gas pedal and wait all the way to 5 minutes and the light never turns off... what am I doing wrong? Everyone's help is greatly appreciated.

 

[QUOTE=10lexISR6;7911626]Okay I need help! So I had a local locksmith cut me two replacement keys recently. I used the original transmitters that came out of my broken OEM keys and put them in. Mind you they both worked perfectly fine prior to. The problem was the keys were braking off from the fob/remotes. Anyways, 1 key works perfect, while the other one only locks/unlocks but when I put the key in and turn to start it doesn't recognize the coding and won't start. I have the master key card which has a skeleton key and transponder on it. I hold it up next to the ignition and the car will start with the non operating new key. I tried all the suggested methods in this entire thread to reprogram but can't get it to work. I get to the point of pressing and depressing the brake and gas pedals etc. Remove the master key and the security light stays off, even after I put the new key in. I press and release the gas pedal and wait all the way to 5 minutes and the light never turns off... what am I doing wrong? Everyone's help is greatly appreciated.


If you have two master keys with chips which key fobs are broken. Just add those chips in the new key fobs and should not be any problems. But if you tried to reprogram the chips it might erased the current settings. You could reprogram the Immobilizer of that key by follow my or hyper descriptions. I don't know which instructions will work for you. So try both.

 

The post I made a few months ago (ttomasic) really worked. I tried several times with several variations, and the one I documented finally worked for me. Then i turned around and programmed a second key without fail following my steps. Patience and precision in the steps is important.
I actually was ready to "give up" and have Lexus program the keys, and then my final attempt worked! It is possible.......

 

I've tried every mentioned process several times over... this is not working for me....

 

Okay, I'm still confused. Post 1 (as well as post 38) in this thread says:
This would seem to be what another member referred to as "the pedal dance," but it didn't work for me, even after adding the second part:
Post #13 has a different procedure, more of a "door dance" than a "pedal dance":

This one DID work for me, key now starts car, but remote still won't lock/unlock, so I went back to Post #1:
That didn't work for me, but it occurs to me that I'm only now noticing that the 3-button remote I bought is configured differently than our existing key.



See how "Panic" is at the top in the center key, my new one, while it's lower right in the original key on the right? Could that be a problem?

I'm going to try gazi001's method from post #25, but when I "Switch the ignition ON for one second, then OFF" I assume I go to the second position, past "ACC" on the first click but not all the way to "Start".

 

The key that you bought (with the panic button moved, and trunk release) is for newer Lexus vehicles. I know my ES has that newer key fob. I'm sure other Lexus' from that era have the same key fob.

I do not think that key fob will work with the RX300.

 

It looks like the electronics that you bought for the switch key are for the RX330/350. That has the automatic rear hatch, which the 300 doesn't.

You may want to verify with the seller that the electronics that you bought is fully compatible with the RX300, and ask if you can return/exchange it is it isn't.

The pictures in post #37 of the thread appear to be the proper "guts" that need to be used.