Dec 15, 2014, 04:42 PM
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Drivers side window control replacement
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2
Likes: 1
From: Ma
Drivers side window control replacement
I have a 2002 RX300 with 56,000 miles. Last week the rear window would go down incrementally on its own and also when my knee hit the drivers side armrest. I took it to the dealer today and they said it was the a faulty master switch for the power windows/locks etc that is in the armrest. It needed replacement...$808!!!!! Yikes!!!! 
Has this problem occurred to anyone in this forum or just me? If so, how did you resolve it short of paying through the nose?
It seems like a whopping pricetag for what used to be a simple fix.
Roland
Has this problem occurred to anyone in this forum or just me? If so, how did you resolve it short of paying through the nose?
It seems like a whopping pricetag for what used to be a simple fix.
Roland
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,533
Likes: 1,379
From: Austin, TX
Do a search and you should find multiple hits on process to remove the master switch. Lexmex posted series of pictures to show how to get to the motor [you only need to pop the switch-assembly]. Removing and replacing is DIY with care. That will save you around 100. or 60min.
Part of the problem is that the dealer will replaces ALL the switches on the panel (assembly) so you are paying 8x the min cost.
You can search salvage-yards, or bite the bullet and buy the whole assembly and part out the good switches (or look for some one who had to do the same).
Salim
Part of the problem is that the dealer will replaces ALL the switches on the panel (assembly) so you are paying 8x the min cost.
You can search salvage-yards, or bite the bullet and buy the whole assembly and part out the good switches (or look for some one who had to do the same).
Salim
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 962
Likes: 28
From: Iowa
I had to replace the master window switch when I bought our used RX300 because one of the switches in it was broken. I got mine used on eBay. I routinely see them sell in the $150 plus range. Not cheap, but better than it was going to be at the dealer! It's easy to change, also. Good luck!
Lexus Champion
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,709
Likes: 16
From: Ca.
I have a 2002 RX300 with 56,000 miles. Last week the rear window would go down incrementally on its own and also when my knee hit the drivers side armrest. I took it to the dealer today and they said it was the a faulty master switch for the power windows/locks etc that is in the armrest. It needed replacement...$808!!!!! Yikes!!!!
Has this problem occurred to anyone in this forum or just me? If so, how did you resolve it short of paying through the nose?
It seems like a whopping pricetag for what used to be a simple fix.
Roland
Has this problem occurred to anyone in this forum or just me? If so, how did you resolve it short of paying through the nose?
It seems like a whopping pricetag for what used to be a simple fix.
Roland
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,533
Likes: 1,379
From: Austin, TX
The problem is that a shop (read dealer) should not spend hours (charging you labor) and in few months you have the problem reappear. In my view, it is better for customer relation that you replace the piece and have no return visits. The only issue is the piece that they stock is a larger than the minimum needed/required.
Salim
Salim
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 962
Likes: 28
From: Iowa
The dealer told me that switch has a significant amount of electronics in it to (supposedly) justify the high cost. I swear, everything these days seems to have some kind of computer chip in it!
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Lexus Champion
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,709
Likes: 16
From: Ca.
The problem is that a shop (read dealer) should not spend hours (charging you labor) and in few months you have the problem reappear. In my view, it is better for customer relation that you replace the piece and have no return visits. The only issue is the piece that they stock is a larger than the minimum needed/required.
Salim
Salim
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Pole Position
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 234
Likes: 0
From: MA
Mine is doing exactly the same thing as the OP. I've just been keeping the master lock on unless I want to roll the window up/down. At first, I didn't know if it was the rear switch, or the master switch. When my knee hit the driver's armrest & the window moved, I knew which switch it was...
I ordered a master switch from a salvage yard (along with some other parts). On the replacement switch, I took the wood grain apart, and separated the switch itself from the electronics (the wood grain doesn't match mine, and the switches are filthy/sticking, so I want to just replace the electronics portion). Yes, there are a LOT of electronics in it!
I've seen threads here on how to remove the actual master control unit without removing the door panel, but I seem to be having some trouble... I can get at the two tabs on the outer side, but (using a thin screwdriver) cannot seem to pop the inner tabs. I don't want to scratch or break anything.
Any thoughts?
I ordered a master switch from a salvage yard (along with some other parts). On the replacement switch, I took the wood grain apart, and separated the switch itself from the electronics (the wood grain doesn't match mine, and the switches are filthy/sticking, so I want to just replace the electronics portion). Yes, there are a LOT of electronics in it!
I've seen threads here on how to remove the actual master control unit without removing the door panel, but I seem to be having some trouble... I can get at the two tabs on the outer side, but (using a thin screwdriver) cannot seem to pop the inner tabs. I don't want to scratch or break anything.
Any thoughts?
Lexus Champion
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,709
Likes: 16
From: Ca.
Mine is doing exactly the same thing as the OP. I've just been keeping the master lock on unless I want to roll the window up/down. At first, I didn't know if it was the rear switch, or the master switch. When my knee hit the driver's armrest & the window moved, I knew which switch it was...
I ordered a master switch from a salvage yard (along with some other parts). On the replacement switch, I took the wood grain apart, and separated the switch itself from the electronics (the wood grain doesn't match mine, and the switches are filthy/sticking, so I want to just replace the electronics portion). Yes, there are a LOT of electronics in it!
I've seen threads here on how to remove the actual master control unit without removing the door panel, but I seem to be having some trouble... I can get at the two tabs on the outer side, but (using a thin screwdriver) cannot seem to pop the inner tabs. I don't want to scratch or break anything.
Any thoughts?
I ordered a master switch from a salvage yard (along with some other parts). On the replacement switch, I took the wood grain apart, and separated the switch itself from the electronics (the wood grain doesn't match mine, and the switches are filthy/sticking, so I want to just replace the electronics portion). Yes, there are a LOT of electronics in it!
I've seen threads here on how to remove the actual master control unit without removing the door panel, but I seem to be having some trouble... I can get at the two tabs on the outer side, but (using a thin screwdriver) cannot seem to pop the inner tabs. I don't want to scratch or break anything.
Any thoughts?
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: CA
My remote lock went first, then the window and lock functions began to fail one by one.
I pulled out the unit and "fixed it" in about 45 minutes and it is easy.
Note that the remote door lock on the drivers side works through this unit so that problem got fixed too.
Looking at at the pictures I posted ( if I can get them to attach to this post), pry up on the edge of the unit with one screwdriver, look into the slot created with a flashlight and locate the clip. Push that back towards the switches an the unit pops out. It takes about 1 minute.
I took the unit completely apart and worked the controls to get any "corrosion" scraped away.
I worked the electrical connector back and forth several times to freshen up the contacts. I think this is what made everything work again.
My remote drivers door lock and all windows including the automatic up/down function, the push button lock/unlock and rear window lock now work again.
More pictures next post
I pulled out the unit and "fixed it" in about 45 minutes and it is easy.
Note that the remote door lock on the drivers side works through this unit so that problem got fixed too.
Looking at at the pictures I posted ( if I can get them to attach to this post), pry up on the edge of the unit with one screwdriver, look into the slot created with a flashlight and locate the clip. Push that back towards the switches an the unit pops out. It takes about 1 minute.
I took the unit completely apart and worked the controls to get any "corrosion" scraped away.
I worked the electrical connector back and forth several times to freshen up the contacts. I think this is what made everything work again.
My remote drivers door lock and all windows including the automatic up/down function, the push button lock/unlock and rear window lock now work again.
More pictures next post
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: CA
More pictures.
Note the controls push little white and black pins into metal tabs in the rubber cover into contacts on the circuit board. There really isn't anything mechanical that can be fixed. I think "corrosion" is what stops the unit from working.
Note the controls push little white and black pins into metal tabs in the rubber cover into contacts on the circuit board. There really isn't anything mechanical that can be fixed. I think "corrosion" is what stops the unit from working.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: CA
And a bonus - programming the key remote function
I bought a replacement key 4 years ago that I was able to program to work to start the engine, but I could never get it programed to work for remote entry. After getting he window control panel to work, I was able to program the key to work as a remote. YEAH.
I also see that the driver's door indicator now shows as open or closed on the dash board panel. Apparently, the circuit board in the window control panel controls a lot of functions.
I bought a replacement key 4 years ago that I was able to program to work to start the engine, but I could never get it programed to work for remote entry. After getting he window control panel to work, I was able to program the key to work as a remote. YEAH.
I also see that the driver's door indicator now shows as open or closed on the dash board panel. Apparently, the circuit board in the window control panel controls a lot of functions.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 17
Likes: 1
From: VA
@ Cotteng - SAME ISSUE - MINE IS FIXED TOO
Thanks for the detailed DIY. I took your knowledge and applied it to my wife's '01 RX300 Master Switch.
Took 2 minutes to pry the switch out, I was able to use a terry cloth to protect the wood veneer and used a long flat screw driver (used to adjust the 4 barrel carbs of yesterdyear). That allowed me to get to the clip and the unit came right out.
I then spent more time pulling the power connection apart than I did removing the unit from the door.
Once I got that done and had the unit in hand I removed the circuit board from the housing (blowing my hot air along the way getting the dust off).
And with the electronics in hand I blew some more, inspected it (not much I could do with the board).
Put it all back together, connected the power, tried the remote and it worked to lock and unlock the door. Then I turned the ignition and tried the window regulator and that works as well now. Total time spent less than 15 minutes....
So IMO it must have been accumulated dust, etc on the magentic part where the switches activate the circuit board. But it works now. Will post again in a few months if it continues to work !!!
Thanks for the detailed DIY.....
Took 2 minutes to pry the switch out, I was able to use a terry cloth to protect the wood veneer and used a long flat screw driver (used to adjust the 4 barrel carbs of yesterdyear). That allowed me to get to the clip and the unit came right out.
I then spent more time pulling the power connection apart than I did removing the unit from the door.
Once I got that done and had the unit in hand I removed the circuit board from the housing (blowing my hot air along the way getting the dust off).
And with the electronics in hand I blew some more, inspected it (not much I could do with the board).
Put it all back together, connected the power, tried the remote and it worked to lock and unlock the door. Then I turned the ignition and tried the window regulator and that works as well now. Total time spent less than 15 minutes....
So IMO it must have been accumulated dust, etc on the magentic part where the switches activate the circuit board. But it works now. Will post again in a few months if it continues to work !!!
Thanks for the detailed DIY.....
