If I understand everything right, the procedure is similar to bleeding the brakes but you need to let out all old fluid until the new one starts flowing from the bleeding valves. Is this correct?

If you have done it yourself,

1. Does this method takes care of old fluid in the ABS system on RX300 or do you need to bleed all 4 weels, cycle the ABS (either with a tool or by driving around and slamming on the brakes) then bleed the 4 wheels again?

2. What is the correct order of bleeding if I am going to replace the fluid? I've read somewhere that a) you are supposed to bleed rear first, then front; b) RX300 uses cross-connected system, so I am guessing the correct order would be RR-FL-RL-FR or vice versa, RL-FR-RR-FL?

Thanks in advance!

 

Oh and also - since the objective is to get all old fluid out, would you advise before bleeding the brakes to take all old fluid out of the reservoir (with a turkey baster, for example and filling it with new one? This way it's less pumping and the new fluid is supposed to show up faster, I guess?

 

I haven't replaced the brake fluid in my RX myself, but I have replaced the brake fluid in previous cars many times. You are correct in all your assumptions, except I don't think you need to do anything to the ABS (other than keep the ignition switch off), from what I have read. Using the turkey baster and the precise order of bleeding sounds good but isn't essential.

My major comment is that I don't think pumping the brake pedal to bleed the brake fluid is a good idea. Sucking the brake fluid out by a hand pump device of one type or another is a much better idea. The potential problem (at least with other cars) is that, when you bleed by pumping the brakes, you run the master cylinder seals over areas they normally don't travel and they can be damaged by rust/deposits in these areas.

 

m1tk4,
The right bleeding order is RR, RL, FR, FL. Procedure is to suck out whatever you have in the fluid container and refill with new fluid before bleeding. Once this is done, open the first nipple until you see new fluid coming out. To ensure old fluid is completely out, you have to bleed all and don't start the car while performing this operation. Don't starve the fluid container in this process to protect your master cylinder. Let's know if you're successful.

 

Dont be too aggressive in sucking out the master calender, Turkey baster or flavor injector (looks like injection for a horse) is good as you can suck out the fluid from the bottom of the reservoir. Leave some fluid in the reservoir as the intent is not to introduce air in the system.

Although there are kits and process to do this alone, but working with buddy is best ... where one holds the pedal and the other lets out the fluid and then shuts off the bleeder.

Although not needed, but the sequence should still be followed (it will let out the old fluid in the right order with little back flow mixing). Farthest from the reservoir to the closest.

caution:
Always use a fresh bottle of fluid.
Don't let the reservoir drop so low that it sucks up air.
The brake fluid will ruin your paint. So be careful of drips etc.
I prefer 6 sided socket for the bleeders. Open ended spanners can ruin the bleeders (if not done just right).
Work on flat surface with engine off and shifter in Park.

Salim

 

My dealer charges $59.95 for this job....and since it's rather messy, I am more than happy to pay for this service.....just my 2 cents.

 

That's actually not a bad price. I replaced my fluid late last year with ATE and some shops in Mexico charged about $40 USD, though my uncle and my cousin did it for me while doing some touch up work on the paint.

 

Out of curiousity, I called and my dealer wants ~$100 for it (which I kind of expected given a few other quotes I got from them).

I am planning to do this along with front rotors / break pad replacement so it's not too much additional hassle, I'm going to be taking the wheels off anyway.

Thank you very much guys, this was really helpful.

Any advice on the brake fluid brands?

 

My favorite brake fluid is ATE SuperBlue.

 

Thanks! Actually 1 more q - will 1L bottle be enough for a complete replacement?

 

Yes. I usually get a second one, but found that I only needed one bottle.

 

I would replace the brake pads first .. you will have to suck the back-flow out of the reservoir .. as you push the pistons back in. I prefer not to open the bleeders as air may get in.

Salim.

 

Motiv Pressure Bleeder...about $50
ATE Super Blue....about $12 L
Suck the old out of the reservoir, fill with super blue...its blue, you'll see it... fill the Motiv, pump in 20# pressure... get at the brake bleeder screws.. carefull not to strip them, use a closed end wrench ...start at the rear, move to the front...do them in order of furthest away from the reservoir.

In 1 hour or so you will have done the deed...likely a good idea to do it 1X each year.....if you next buy ATE Gold...guess what...it is gold coloured and so you'll know when the Blue is flushed out. Then again..Ford brake fluid is cheap and very high temp range...but not as much fun as Blue and Gold.

YMMV

Cheers,
Alan

 

I've blead a lot of brakes in my life and I totally agree with you Bob. The only exception I have is I always use the suction bulb to remove the old fluid before I start.
And Donald, I agree that a pressure bleeder for $50. is a good idea. Most personal mechanics wouldn't use 1 enough to justify the cost though. I do not ever force the piston back in and force the fluid upstream. I have actually seen where that has forced a proportioning valve off center where it stuck. I simply open the bleed valve for that wheel and let it out there. you don't have to worry about letting in air- maybe if you went off and left it open for a while but not when it is closed as soon as the piston is retracted.
I always do 1 man bleeds with a Mighty-Vac- it is very easy and NO danger of soft pedal or air in system as long as you fill the m/c after each wheel. The only thing you have to do is put teflon tape, heavy grease or something like that on THE THREADS (only) to maintain a good vacuum. Otherwise you suck air around the threads and get frustrated. I find bleeding a pleasant experience (alone) since I started doing it that way.
Harbor Freight sells a very nice metal vacuum pump for about $25.
retail.

 

Thank you all! ATE Blue is on its way, I've actually changed the pads (Akebono) and rotors (Brembo) as Salim advised.

Couple of notes someone might find useful.

1. The best way to take the front rotor off is to screw in 2 bolts in the holes that you will see on the rotor to break it apart from the axle. The rotor is usually held by the rust. IMPORTANT! These 2 holes are the same size as the 2 bolts that hold the caliper, M8, however, their pitch is different. You can actually screw the caliper bolts in there and they will pop the rotor off, but the thread on the caliper bolts will be damaged and you won't be able to reuse them. (Don't ask me how I know I was lucky the local junkyard was open on Sundays and they had a crashed IS300 on the lot!!!). If you don't plan to change these bolts and want to reuse them, get 2 M8 x 14mm-20mm bolts from Home Depot and use them.

2. Akebono pads come with attached black anti-squeal shims. You DON'T need to tear them off and put the lube under them, as was suggested by someone in another thread. Just using the little amount to lubricate the piston and the 2 "fingers" on the torque plate was enough, no squal at all. It's easier to put the lube on the caliper than to put it on the pad - you don't have to use as much and you can be sure it's in the right place.

Hope this helps somebody.