unir2b1

Here's what's in my engine now:

SUV, TRUCK, AND MINIVAN MOTOR OIL
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
PENNZOIL® SUV, TRUCK, AND MINIVAN motor oil is a synthetic blend motor oil specially formulated for the demands of larger vehicle engines that naturally put more stress on their engines. PENNZOIL® SUV, TRUCK, AND MINIVAN motor oil with Active Cleansing Agents continuously help prevent dirt and contamination from turning into performance robbing deposits, helping keep your engine clean to maintain responsiveness.
PENNZOIL® SUV, TRUCK, AND MINIVAN motor oil meets or exceeds the warranty requirements for gasoline engines where API SM, ILSAC GF-4, SAE 5W-20, SAE 5W-30 or SAE10W-30 motor oil is recommended. It contains unique anti-wear additives to protect the engine during punishing short trips and is specially formulated to provide extra cleansing protection for vehicles operating under heavy loads. PENNZOIL® SUV, TRUCK, AND MINIVAN motor oil meets or exceeds warranty requirements for many diesels engines when API CI-4, SAE 15W-40 motor oil is recommended
APPLICATION
PENNZOIL® SUV, TRUCK, AND MINIVAN motor oil SAE 5W-20, SAE 5W-30 and SAE 10W-30 can be used in many application in gasoline engines, domestic and foreign, including passenger cars, light-duty trucks, vans and sport utility vehicles (including turbocharged). It meets or exceeds the demanding requirements of the ILSAC GF-4 and the API SM Service Classification.
Always consult your owner's manual for the correct viscosity choice and specification grade of oil required. Viscosity recommendations often allow a range of viscosities based on local temperatures. Applications include:
SAE 5W-20 – Many current and recent OEM (original equipment manufacturer) recommendations including many 2001 and later Ford and Honda, and later Chrysler, Nissan and Toyota applications
SAE 5W-30 – Many of the remaining US and Japanese vehicle recommendations including General Motors, Suzuki, Subaru, Hyundai
SAE 10W-30 – Several specialty and truck applications for different manufacturers. This was the predominant grade of oil in the mid-1990s and is still recommended for some higher temperature applications.
PENNZOIL® SUV, TRUCK, AND MINIVAN SAE 15W-40 motor oil is an advanced oil providing excellent quality in both diesel and gasoline engines. It meets or exceeds the requirements of API CI-4.
PENNZOIL® SUV, TRUCK, AND MINIVAN MOTOR OIL
FEATURES
• Active Cleansing Agents
• Anti-wear additives
• Synthetic blend base oils
BENEFITS
• Actively helps keep engine clean in the extreme temperatures created by harder working engines
• Protects the engine during punishing short trips
• Provides protection against engine strain under heavy loads
• [Additional protection] [Is something special added compared to Pennzoil conventional?] against piston deposits and ring sticking
January, 2008
SPECIFICATIONS & APPROVALS
• Meets or exceeds many manufacturers' U.S. warranty requirements
• Meets the API SM specification (SAE 5W-20, SAE 5W-30, SAE 10W-30)
• Meets the requirements of API CI-4 (SAE 15W-40)
• Meets the European CEC-L-88-T-02 (TU5JP-L4) high temperature deposit control requirement SAE 5W-20, SAE 5W-30, and SAE 10W-30)
• Meets or exceeds ILSAC GF-4, GF-3 and GF-2 requirements (SAE 5W-20, SAE 5W-30 and SAE 10W-30)
• Meets the GM 6094M specification (SAE 5W-20, 5W-30 and SAE 10W-30)
• Meets the Chrysler MS 6395Q specification (SAE 5W-20, SAE 5W-30, and SAE 10W-30)
• Meets Ford [WSS-M2C929-A (SAE 5W-30) and WSS-M2C930-A (SAE 5W-20)] specifications
Health & Safety
Guidance on Health and Safety are available on the appropriate Material Safety Data Sheet, which can be obtained from your Pennzoil® representative.
Protect the environment
Take used oil to an authorized collection point. Do not discharge into drains, soil or water

Lexmex

I had a hunch that it might have been their synthetic blend for SUVs, http://www.pennzoil.com/products.htm...ruckAndMinivan

Personally, if I were to go the Pennzoil route, I'd take the Pennzoil Platinum 5W30, very good oil.

The one I favor is the Castrol 0W30 that can be found (not all the time) at Autozone and Pep Boys.

When I've done my own oil changes I like to use Liqui Moly Engine Flush (it's actually sold under the Lubro Moly name at Napa Auto Parts in the United States) just prior to changing my oil and filter. However, you don't really need a flush prior to switching to a synthetic. I drive my RX300 in a pretty different way from others (although not quite the same as when I was in Mexico), but I nevertheless have continued to use this product.

Finally, I go with an oversized K&N HP-2009 oil filter, compared to the K&N HP-1002 OEM sized filter, for better flow and trapping of contaminants.

lexus114

yeah,no mechanic in a can will take car of that now.but i would still try it.nothing to loose,and everything to gain @ this point.

Lexmex

I'd still be inclined to try the Motor Oil Saver from Lubro Moly (at Napa Auto Parts) before closing the case.

sktn77a

iTrader: (2)

LexMex is right - it can't do any harm. But, realistically, you're looking at a $5000-$6000 engine replacement which is about what the car is worth in today's market. You can try putting some 50W oil in there along with some Motor Oil Saver and taking down to your local CarMax to unload it

HarrierAWD

Short of an engine rebuild or replacement, perhaps try the following steps as a last resort. I am against using snake oil of any kind and would never put these crap in my Lexus. Again this is just a suggested last resort since it has worked somewhat for my old GM car. Use at your own risk.

Step 1: Clean the cylinders - Get GM's Top Cleaner. Remove spark plugs and pour the cleaner into each cylinder. Let it sit overnight. Next morning, put a beach towel on it and crank the engine for 5 minutes to get all the crap out, or you'll destroy the engine. You may have to replace the towel several times. Put spark plugs back.

Step 2: Clean the crankcase - Pour 2-3 oz. of Berryman's Chemtool B-12 into the engine oil. Also add 8 oz. at fuel up. Drive it as you normally would. It will dissolve the sludge quickly so don't put too much in. You may see the oil get dark quickly (within 10 miles of driving.) If so, do an oil and filter change. You may have to repeat this process several times.

Step 3: Re-condition the cylinder walls and piston rings. LexMex tried this "Restore" product that seemed to work for him. Use heavier motor oil (such as 10W40) may help.

Hope this helps, but be forewarned that I have only done Step 1 and 2 on my GM car, never with my Lexus. Never did Step 3. So use this at your own risk.

rx7133

The oil sludge happened to me around 60K on my 200 RX300. Luckily, it was covered and the Lexus dealership replaced the motor.

yakzz58

It's most likely the rear valve cover. It pools oil which is sucked up on startup. Mine only did after more than 10 mile trips and after cooling down, usually overnight. There is a redesigned valve cover to fix it. I did not know about it. I had my heads rebuilt, have been using a half gallon oil catch jar on a long hose from the pcv valve for 3 years. Finally it dawned on me to drill and tap my oil filler cap, put the pcv valve in there with a hose to the air intake and plug off the rear pcv. This moves the pcv away from the pooling oil in the rear valve cover. I have probably driven 300 miles at 65-75 mph so far without smoke on start-up or burning any oil. I wish myself or someone else had this idea 8 years ago when mine started smoking. I hope this helps someone else.

Lexmus

yakzz58,
You should post this on the main rear valve cover thread, where people who are dealing with this issue will likely see it.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...lve-cover.html

salimshah

Just to set the record right ..
There was never a redesign of the valve cover for the first gen RX.

Engine and it plumbing has gone through progressive changes (hopefully improvements) over time. The earlier models had narrow drain tube and if quality oil was not used (and replaced regularly) there was engine oil gelling. Not all engines exhibited oil gelling and not all exhibited oil consumption as high speed. There may or may not be any correlation with partial gelling, gelling and oil consumption.

For those who experienced oil consumption narrowed down the source as the PCV path to the intake. Some members switched to Gen 2 valve cover and noticed improvement but it was short lived and some tried the 3rd gen valve cover and seem happy with it.

If you follow our other thread, the jury is still out the build up in the valve cover is the problem or actual design changes or combination of both.

Salim

blazer99

Switch to the third gen valve cover. My RX started smoking a few years ago. Did some research and figured out that was most likely my issue. I changed the valve cover and no more smoke. It has been over 3 years and 50k miles and she is running like a top with no smoke. I think a few engines have been replaced due to misdiagnoses from the dealers.