Did anyone chage the fuel filter? Not schedule indicated in user manual. I found dificult to locat it.

Many thanks if get help.

Fuel filter is a wire mesh at the fuel pump (immersed in the fuel tank). The purpose it serves is to catch the non-soluble junk and leave it in the tank. Any thing that goes bye the filter can clog up the injector.

Salim

Actually there are two filters, both inside the tank. Pre-filtering nylon sock and a can-size main filter. I am still waiting on parts to arrive in mail. Will post a DIY.

Thanks.
Strangely, I was asked by Auto-part to purshase it with fuel pump. But, Kragen would take order of just the fuel filter.
It seems difficult to DIY inside the tank. Is frequently clean injector an aternate? Any way, I will look for your post, Meety.

Some say it is better to drain the fuel tank to get rid of debris and sediments.

Meetya post the level of filter clogging you observed (+ miles). With clean gas and practically no rust inside the tank, the buildup should be minimal.

By the way there are some specs on the rate of flow and pressure created by the fuel pump. That is how the repair shop(s) zero in to fuel pump/filter issues.

Salim

Salim, from reading your post, i remember that a friend of mine will not let his gas tank go lower than 1/2 capacity because he says if it does, it builds up condensation and it will rust, so as soon as the needle is near half, he will fill up, not sure how true this is, do you?

Rust has to do with material (coating) on the inside of the tank + presence of water and water vapors. Mostly it should be fumes (vapor of gasoline) but you would get moisture from the air. Major source of water has been un-sealed underground gas pump reservoirs. EPA regulations have made this lot better over time, but it is a problem in some parts of the world.

With 1/2 or more gas tank, you have cooler pump, better weight distribution, less vapor loss in the tank. You do carry extra weight so fuel economy may be slightly worse off.

Salim

I don't believe water condensation is nearly the problem it used to be . . . salim's right, a good portion of that water gets into the fuel in underground tanks, either through ground water leakage, flooding, or tank condensation. But it's no longer the problem it once was . . . the solution (no pun intended) is blended into the fuel.

Most modern gasoline blends contain ethanol as an oxygenate, a substitute for MTBE, and that alcohol will adsorb water at the molecular level. This is one of the functions of fuel "stabilizers" and dewatering additive products. We used to fill our boat's (70 gal.) tanks and dump in a couple of quarts of alcohol at the end of the season to prevent condensation from rusting out the bottom of the tank. Others had rusting tanks, while mine remained perfectly clean for years.

One of the benefits, I guess, of today's E10 fuel - despite its poor mileage and higher cost, at least condensation is no longer a worry - it comes from the pump pre-mixed with its own dewatering agent.

I am really looking forward to Meetya's results. I think this is the last hurdle that i will have for my rx in an attempt to get better mileage. If i do this and it doesnt work, i guess i have to admit to myself that i have a heavy foot ;-). Sad thing is, my driving habits are roughly the same for 99 v6 camry i have. and i get about 21-23 vs 16-17

Yes but your camry does not weigh as much, I just got off a trip to Utah and got 22.7 miles per gallon at 75 to 79 mph at 5k to 7.8k altitude. In california we get the 16 to 17 like you do. Crappy emmisions gas in California and bad commute and heavy gas foot.

Weight is one factor, but the major reason for poor mileage is profile.

If you have access to a motorcycle, just try to carry a 2'x4' sheet and experience the drag first hand.

Salim

I get 15 to 16 here, 16 the past 2 weeks since I did my last intake modification