I took my 2003 RX 300 in for Maintenance. Within an hour of getting it back, I heard a rapid, non-stop da da da da da da under the hood after it had been sitting - the noise stops when the key is put in the ignition, but starts again after the car is parked and cools for a period of time. It comes from both the EFI relay and the A/F Heater Relay. The second one only clicks if the EFI relay is plugged in.

The mechanic is currently trying to find the cause. Has anyone else had this happen? What could cause it? What are these relays linked to, that would need to be looked at? It seems EFI and Air Flow will have some common components. Could anything from standard maintenance have set this off?

 

Welcome to CL, Caprice!

That is really odd - obviously if it is happening with the ignition off, there is some unusual drain on the battery that could leave you stranded. That relay isn't powering itself. Let us know what your mechanic finds - it's going to be interesting.

I can't help but think of my stepmother's '82 Olds Ciera that had a radiator fan switch that would close a minute or two after parking it, starting the fan whirring for two or three minutes after you walked away. Of course it would always shut off eventually, but I had any number of people chase me down in parking lots to tell me the engine had started after I walked off. Embarrassing? Oh yes!

Supposedly the thermostat would close when the rise in block temperature caused by the loss of coolant flow occurred when the engine stopped - no matter that the ignition was off. It was "normal" for that year and the 3.8L engine they said, but I notice it never happened on other mid-size GM 3.8's in subsequent years - musta had a lot of complaints. I hate it when my car thinks it's smarter than me . . .

 

I'm having this same exact issue... I walked out to my 99 Rx300 and I heard ticking like crazy inside my relay box..I wasent able to tell which 1 it was.. as soon as I put the key in the ignition it stopped.. go to turn the car on & it won't start it like wants to so bad but wont.... haven't heard the ticking since I put the key in the ignition for the first time... somebody please help before I go blow 200$ on relays

 

My bet is your battery is dying. In fact I would bet a ton.

 

I believe I have a relay issue.. not sure exacly which one but as I was going to my other vehicle to get something and I heard this loud noise going ta-ta!-ta!-ta! Coming from my 99 Lexus rx300 so I was like what the heck, heard that it was obviously coming from under my hood so I popped the hood & popped the relay box because thats where it was coming from & it was loud.... I should of been more observant an felt the relays to pinpoint which one but i didnt...but it kept doing it constantly so I put my key in the ignition(didn't turn it) and it went away completely... the car will not start, it turns over & wants to start so bad but its like its fuel/air is cut off turns on for like a millisecond if that kinda... anybody know any common issues with relays with this years make of 99-03? Please help..

 

Somebodys had pretty the same identical issue as me.. I turn my lights on an it makes a loud tick with the relay box open.. no lights so I'm guessing the headlight relay???

 

what could possibly be causing this... ? Key wasent in ignition..... in relay box so should just be a relay fix right? Gonna try an get to a parts car tomorrow an go from there.. I do have a video if it ticking.. a good one..

 

Trust me on this one. It's going to be a bad battery. Start there. Easy to diagnose and fix.

 

There's no way its the battery.. that battery is less then 3 years old... it turns over just fine..duralast battery too..

 

What voltage do you get with the starter turning the engine? [evidence instead of gut call]
Try holding down the gas pedal 1/3 the way as you crank the engine? [maybe IACV is clogged]

Salim

 

okay, so I jumped the Battery with my other vehicle.. the Lexus turned over and started right away.. so I was like okay.. maby this dudes right, let's go to Autozone quick an test this battery & buy a new one.. dude tests my battery tells me it is at 84% charge... still wasent comfortable with what I've been dealing with so I bought a new Duralast Gold Battery 200$... plopped it in and started right away.. but see this is what gets me.. we're on day #2 now and I walk out to my Lexus and once again I hear the relays going CRAZY. So the old battery didn't even die overnight or anything after the relays were ticking the first day then stopped for several hours after I put my keys in the ignition... I don't know guys... somethings drawing power an I had my mechanic diagnose an test with a multimeter for 6-8hrs a few months ago to find out that my drivers side door lock actuator was alive an bad.. after disconnecting that he moved on.. something else was still alive... fished for 4hours more to find nothing.... he said its a drain that will only kill my battery if I let the vehicle sit for a week and a half to two weeks.. so it just makes no sense because I ran the vehicle a good bit of distance the day before day#1 when I went out to my vehicle an the relays were going crazy & it wouldn't turn over and start..... idk.. I'm clueless at this point an honestly I keep pro-longing it im looking at thousands of dollars in just a diagnosis. If someone could please give advice or a direction to shoot towards id highly appreciate it. Thanks in advanced.

 

I did not diagnose what you just spoke upon with a multimeter.. what I do know the starter has been replaced & yes at a dealership. This car was dealership maintained its whole life prior to my hands.. these years seem to have a good bit of electrical problems it seems like..my mechanic fished this thing for 6-8hrs with a multimeter just only to find out that the drivers side door lock actuator is bad an to notice something else is alive but couldn't find what.. pretty disappointing.. had this car for almost 3 years an its runs so good. Thousands of dollars in maintenance done to it over the years, cleanest 1999 engine bay I've ever seen.. its just sad that its coming down to this..but yes if I end up back at square 1 with the new battery replacement I will then do this. Thank you!

 

I don't understand why it's hard to find the relay that is rattling. I get that there is more than one in the box.
Have you tried

• Touching them to feel for vibration
• Removing them one at a time
• Listening with an automotive stethoscope

 

a bunch of them were.. I felt them on day 2..i didn't remove them one at a time tho..

 

There are different ways to diagnose; elimination, measurements, etc. My preferred way is measurement if possible. Your battery may be just fine, so measure before buying a new one.

Since your engine is being spun by starter and assuming it is getting spark at the right time, I am suggesting increasing the fuel by keeping the gas pedal down by 1/3. The IACV usually clogs up at about 75K miles and if you service it, then it will last another 75K miles or so. More details are in the "having problems start here sticky thread".

I forgot to mention that imobilizer may prevent spark and you can keep on cranking. You can try another key or check to see the security light in turned off [assuming the bulb is working].

Salim

PS: Another major source of electrical problems is water penetration in the cabin fuse box.