Need Help: Brake Malfunction, Check ABS, Check BSM
I would never use solder on a wiring harness, but that's because I have direct experience with failed solder joints on looms in WC-135B aircraft. Never again. It's crimp or new wire for me.
i just lowered my car. so any lowered rcf, you have to do this? anyone know what to measure on how much slack you need? I'm pretty handy but i don't get how this work. those wires are stuck in those metal brackets good, can anyone make or show me a quick guide? i would appreciate it. don't want to break anything.
i just lowered my car. so any lowered rcf, you have to do this? anyone know what to measure on how much slack you need? I'm pretty handy but i don't get how this work. those wires are stuck in those metal brackets good, can anyone make or show me a quick guide? i would appreciate it. don't want to break anything.
Last edited by JT2MA71; Mar 12, 2017 at 11:13 AM.
The wire loom/sleeve will slip off the bracket, it is kinda tightly crimped by the loop on the metal bracket but the rubberlike sleeve is soft enough that you can move. it You can use a pair of pliers to loosen the loop and then just tighten it back up when done adjusting. I did mine by putting a jack under the control arm, wheel off, where it's safe to raise it and lower again, to just cycle it up and down and watch where/how the harness moves. I think on mine I noticed that the two brackets were almost touching each other when the car is at a resting position, so, I re oriented the one attached to the upper arm. When you make your adjustment, take into accoiunt the amount of harness slack and clearance needed when the suspension is fully compressed or bottomed out. And also when fully extended. Hope that helps!
ah ok this makes perfect sense now. thanks for that explanation. thanks brotha
The wire loom/sleeve will slip off the bracket, it is kinda tightly crimped by the loop on the metal bracket but the rubberlike sleeve is soft enough that you can move it. You can use a pair of pliers to loosen the loop and then just tighten it back up when done adjusting. I did mine by putting a jack under the control arm, wheel off, where it's safe to raise it and lower again, to just cycle it up and down and watch where/how the harness moves. I think on mine I noticed that the two brackets were almost touching each other when the car is at a resting position, so, I re oriented the one attached to the upper arm. When you make your adjustment, take into account the amount of harness slack and clearance needed when the suspension is fully compressed or bottomed out. And also when fully extended. Hope that helps!
Yup! My installer took out OEM Rear Upper Arms replaced it with FIGS. Reconnected the OEM Bracket for the ABS/BSM Wires to the FIGS Arms. Error started popping up after 150-200miles of driving. My installer checked it and the Protective Skin of the wires were getting sliced/trimmed to a not-so-sharp metal part every time my rear dips down and goes back up.
So, he wrapped it with electrical tape, re-bent the OEM Bracket away from the not-so-sharp metal and gave the wires some allowance to move. I drove it for 100-150miles now, no errors so far.
Good Luck! with everyone who will change their Rear Upper Arms. I hope it doesn't happen to you because it somewhat changed the handling of my car when errors popped up as if the grounded wires are affecting the TVD or turns off Traction or something else(ABS). But now is better.
So, he wrapped it with electrical tape, re-bent the OEM Bracket away from the not-so-sharp metal and gave the wires some allowance to move. I drove it for 100-150miles now, no errors so far.
Good Luck! with everyone who will change their Rear Upper Arms. I hope it doesn't happen to you because it somewhat changed the handling of my car when errors popped up as if the grounded wires are affecting the TVD or turns off Traction or something else(ABS). But now is better.
Yup! My installer took out OEM Rear Upper Arms replaced it with FIGS. Reconnected the OEM Bracket for the ABS/BSM Wires to the FIGS Arms. Error started popping up after 150-200miles of driving. My installer checked it and the Protective Skin of the wires were getting sliced/trimmed to a not-so-sharp metal part every time my rear dips down and goes back up.
So, he wrapped it with electrical tape, re-bent the OEM Bracket away from the not-so-sharp metal and gave the wires some allowance to move. I drove it for 100-150miles now, no errors so far.
Good Luck! with everyone who will change their Rear Upper Arms. I hope it doesn't happen to you because it somewhat changed the handling of my car when errors popped up as if the grounded wires are affecting the TVD or turns off Traction or something else(ABS). But now is better.
So, he wrapped it with electrical tape, re-bent the OEM Bracket away from the not-so-sharp metal and gave the wires some allowance to move. I drove it for 100-150miles now, no errors so far.
Good Luck! with everyone who will change their Rear Upper Arms. I hope it doesn't happen to you because it somewhat changed the handling of my car when errors popped up as if the grounded wires are affecting the TVD or turns off Traction or something else(ABS). But now is better.
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Driver School Candidate
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: LA
Hi all -
Different model (IS250F) but same problem. I appreciate the info as I gave me a place to fish however as best I can tell, both wires/harnesses are in good shape. This is an intermittent problem (wife's car - usually only when she drives). Doesn't seem to effect normal drivability. I'm getting ready to take it on a 600 mile round trip over the next few days so I guess I will know more then.
Had rear tires replaced ~2 months ago - stock size. No mods to the car - 100% stock.
Any suggestions as to where I should look next?
Different model (IS250F) but same problem. I appreciate the info as I gave me a place to fish however as best I can tell, both wires/harnesses are in good shape. This is an intermittent problem (wife's car - usually only when she drives). Doesn't seem to effect normal drivability. I'm getting ready to take it on a 600 mile round trip over the next few days so I guess I will know more then.
Had rear tires replaced ~2 months ago - stock size. No mods to the car - 100% stock.
Any suggestions as to where I should look next?
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: LA
***UPDATE*** Fixed
Hi all -
Different model (IS250F) but same problem. I appreciate the info as I gave me a place to fish however as best I can tell, both wires/harnesses are in good shape. This is an intermittent problem (wife's car - usually only when she drives). Doesn't seem to effect normal drivability. I'm getting ready to take it on a 600 mile round trip over the next few days so I guess I will know more then.
Had rear tires replaced ~2 months ago - stock size. No mods to the car - 100% stock.
Any suggestions as to where I should look next?
Different model (IS250F) but same problem. I appreciate the info as I gave me a place to fish however as best I can tell, both wires/harnesses are in good shape. This is an intermittent problem (wife's car - usually only when she drives). Doesn't seem to effect normal drivability. I'm getting ready to take it on a 600 mile round trip over the next few days so I guess I will know more then.
Had rear tires replaced ~2 months ago - stock size. No mods to the car - 100% stock.
Any suggestions as to where I should look next?
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 567
Likes: 758
From: CA
shout out to dean and ron. thanks guys for your contributions to this forum. pictures helped a ton. happened to me. driver side, not too nicked but enough to ground things out and false alarm on errors. shop bent the bracket away from the offending slicer (lol), taped it up, repeated on passenger side which wasn't nicked and sent me on my way. don't drive the rc f in the rain either. i know exactly where to look now and can check on things myself. tech wouldn't let me pay him for his time, nice.
Last edited by sensai; Jan 30, 2020 at 03:44 PM.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 22
Likes: 6
From: ca
i have the abs/pcs system lights come on. I thought it was the speed sensor as well but it actually wasnt. My left front wheel/ hub (bearings) assembly are bad and it was affecting the whole system.
Driver
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 87
Likes: 25
From: DMV
I believe this to be the same issue on my car currently. Did you have any C or B codes pop up? Also how did you determine the bearings / hub assembly was bad?
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