lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

I would never use solder on a wiring harness, but that's because I have direct experience with failed solder joints on looms in WC-135B aircraft. Never again. It's crimp or new wire for me.

ISFPOWER

iTrader: (20)

i just lowered my car. so any lowered rcf, you have to do this? anyone know what to measure on how much slack you need? I'm pretty handy but i don't get how this work. those wires are stuck in those metal brackets good, can anyone make or show me a quick guide? i would appreciate it. don't want to break anything.

JT2MA71

iTrader: (7)

The wire loom/sleeve will slip off the bracket, it is kinda tightly crimped by the loop on the metal bracket but the rubberlike sleeve is soft enough that you can move it. You can use a pair of pliers to loosen the loop and then just tighten it back up when done adjusting. I did mine by putting a jack under the control arm, wheel off, where it's safe to raise it and lower again, to just cycle it up and down and watch where/how the harness moves. I think on mine I noticed that the two brackets were almost touching each other when the car is at a resting position, so, I re oriented the one attached to the upper arm. When you make your adjustment, take into account the amount of harness slack and clearance needed when the suspension is fully compressed or bottomed out. And also when fully extended. Hope that helps!

ISFPOWER

iTrader: (20)

ah ok this makes perfect sense now. thanks for that explanation. thanks brotha

Deanrcf

iTrader: (1)

Ba2sy,

So was this the problem?

Deanrcf

iTrader: (1)

Bad design on Lexus' part. Never had this issue on the G35 and she's even lower than the RCF. I'm not a big fan on the front wheel well cover either. They should've designed it a little more recessed to allow a bigger drop. I was scraping just a little and turned out to be the screw in the front liner. Not a good place for a screw, should be a plastic clamp.

ba2sy

iTrader: (1)

Yup! My installer took out OEM Rear Upper Arms replaced it with FIGS. Reconnected the OEM Bracket for the ABS/BSM Wires to the FIGS Arms. Error started popping up after 150-200miles of driving. My installer checked it and the Protective Skin of the wires were getting sliced/trimmed to a not-so-sharp metal part every time my rear dips down and goes back up.

So, he wrapped it with electrical tape, re-bent the OEM Bracket away from the not-so-sharp metal and gave the wires some allowance to move. I drove it for 100-150miles now, no errors so far.

Good Luck! with everyone who will change their Rear Upper Arms. I hope it doesn't happen to you because it somewhat changed the handling of my car when errors popped up as if the grounded wires are affecting the TVD or turns off Traction or something else(ABS). But now is better.

Deanrcf

iTrader: (1)

I'm glad everything worked out. The electrical tape is probably not going survive the rain too much. Heat shrink wrap is better. I personally don't drive the RCF in the rain. Good luck!

RazorIS250

Hi all -

Different model (IS250F) but same problem. I appreciate the info as I gave me a place to fish however as best I can tell, both wires/harnesses are in good shape. This is an intermittent problem (wife's car - usually only when she drives). Doesn't seem to effect normal drivability. I'm getting ready to take it on a 600 mile round trip over the next few days so I guess I will know more then.

Had rear tires replaced ~2 months ago - stock size. No mods to the car - 100% stock.

Any suggestions as to where I should look next?

RazorIS250

Future reference for those who have the same issue. Took it to a well respected local toyota mechanic. Turns out he really didn't have an idea so he took a stab at it and replaced the speed sensor cable. Didn't fix it so he wanted to try something else. Another mechanic replaced the wheel speed sensor hub and this solved the problem.

sensai

shout out to dean and ron. thanks guys for your contributions to this forum. pictures helped a ton. happened to me. driver side, not too nicked but enough to ground things out and false alarm on errors. shop bent the bracket away from the offending slicer (lol), taped it up, repeated on passenger side which wasn't nicked and sent me on my way. don't drive the rc f in the rain either. i know exactly where to look now and can check on things myself. tech wouldn't let me pay him for his time, nice.

jpeezyGS

i have the abs/pcs system lights come on. I thought it was the speed sensor as well but it actually wasnt. My left front wheel/ hub (bearings) assembly are bad and it was affecting the whole system.

Saadq12

I believe this to be the same issue on my car currently. Did you have any C or B codes pop up? Also how did you determine the bearings / hub assembly was bad?