When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey guys! Recently replaced the stock ridiculously dusty brake pads for a set if brand new Akebonos. The brake dust comparison is phenomenal, but......I now get brake squeal like no other! Its soooo bad! I learned how bad last night when valet drove our car up to us and the squeal damn near made my ear drums bleed. I took them apart today and lubed the crap out of the shims on the back of the pads, the contact points where the pads touch the calipers top and bottom, the metal clip holding the pads into the caliper and the pin as well. It's about 80% better but if I brake with moderate pressure just before coming to a complete stop its squeals again like a pig! Anyone else experience this? And if so remedy suggestions? Thanks! PFA
10LEX: I had my pads replaced with Akebono pads when I had my wheel guy powder coat my calipers (my RC is not an F). He was the one who recommended the Akebono pads to me. I bedded them in right away, and I notice much less dust and better braking performance. However, my brakes squeal in reverse, which I notice when I back out of my garage. I have no squealing when the car is moving forward. I called the wheel guy, and he said that this was very common and that it would go away eventually (although it has not in over a year).
I don't know much about brakes, and I can easily live with the squeal I get when backing up, but a constant squeal when braking a forward moving car would not be acceptable. I doubt it's the pads themselves, as these are very highly regarded.
You did not say in your original post if you changed the pads or had it done by a trained and experienced professional. If you had it done, you should take the car back and have them installed correctly, as something is clearly wrong. If you installed them yourself, then maybe your best move at this time is to have a mechanic or a wheel specialist look at them.
Braking should not be a noisy experience.
After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
After step 4 your new pads are ready for use
The following is from the Tirerack website:
All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against to maximize brake performance. The bedding-in process involves a gradual buildup of heat in the rotors and pad compound. This process will lay down a thin layer of transfer film on to the rotor surface. Following the bed-in procedures provided by the manufacturer will assure a smooth, even layer of transfer film on the rotor and will minimize brake judder. Here are a few things to keep in mind when installing new rotors and pads:
When installing new pads, the rotors should be new or at least resurfaced to remove any transfer film from the previous set of brake pads.
It is critical that the installer clean any rust, scale, or debris from the hub mounting surface thoroughly and check it for excessive run-out with a dial indicator gauge before installing the rotor.
The new rotor should also be checked for excessive run-out using a dial indicator gauge before the caliper and pads are installed. If a rotor has excessive run-out of over .004" (.10mm) it should be replaced.
If your new rotor has excessive run-out, please contact our customer service department for a replacement rotor. Do not install and drive using the rotor! Rotor manufacturers will not warranty a used rotor for excessive run-out. Running with excessive run-out on the hub or rotor will cause vibration issues.
"Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly...Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors."
Failure to follow these procedures may result in brake judder, excessive noise, or other difficulties in bedding-in the new brake pads. The pads need a fresh surface to lay down an even transfer film. Residue from the previous pad compound on the surface or an irregular surface on a used rotor will cause the pads to grip-slip-grip-slip as they pass over the rotor surface under pressure. The resulting vibration will cause noise and telegraph vibrations through the suspension and steering wheel. This vibration is known as brake judder or brake shimmy. This is typically caused by an uneven transfer film on the rotor surface or an uneven surface on the rotor not allowing that transfer film to develop evenly. This is often misdiagnosed as a warped rotor.
Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly. Rapid heat buildup in the brake system can lead to warped rotors and or glazed brake pads. Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors. Following are the recommended bed-in procedures from each manufacturer:
AKEBONO
400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.
ATE
400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.
BREMBO GRAN TURISMO
In a safe area, apply brakes moderately from 60mph to 30mph and then drive approximately 1/2 mile to allow the brakes to cool. Repeat this procedure approximately 30 times.
HAWK
After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop. When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.
Note: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at the Tire Rack for racing application information.
POWER SLOT
Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles.
10LEX: I had my pads replaced with Akebono pads when I had my wheel guy powder coat my calipers (my RC is not an F). He was the one who recommended the Akebono pads to me. I bedded them in right away, and I notice much less dust and better braking performance. However, my brakes squeal in reverse, which I notice when I back out of my garage. I have no squealing when the car is moving forward. I called the wheel guy, and he said that this was very common and that it would go away eventually (although it has not in over a year).
I don't know much about brakes, and I can easily live with the squeal I get when backing up, but a constant squeal when braking a forward moving car would not be acceptable. I doubt it's the pads themselves, as these are very highly regarded.
You did not say in your original post if you changed the pads or had it done by a trained and experienced professional. If you had it done, you should take the car back and have them installed correctly, as something is clearly wrong. If you installed them yourself, then maybe your best move at this time is to have a mechanic or a wheel specialist look at them.
Braking should not be a noisy experience.
Thanks for the reply. I did do the install myself, as I've done many in the past as well. Never have I had an issue about this before. However, after talking with my girlfriend, she mentioned once we had the recall performed where they replaced the 2 piece rotors with a single piece rotor and replaced both front brake pads, she would get this squeal. The brake squeal wasnt quite this intense though. If I cant figure it out, I may have to venture to a shop and have them try to diagnose the issue.
Gearhead69 is right on. The pads are very easy to replace so i would suggest you slide them out and put some brake anti squeal on the back of the pads and slide them back in. Now go and bed in your brake pads and see what happens... cant hurt!
Brake job squeeeeeeeeling! Help!
