Pynoxim

Good Evening CL Members

I would just like to post my experience regarding boosting my Lexus GS300 using the stock ECU and Injectors, my post originally resides on my.IS but I felt I should post it here for those who are interested in taking this route.

Good day My.IS Users,

After doing a ton of reading and research, I finally decided to slap a turbo onto my 2JZ-GE VVTI and I'd like to share my experience with you.

I'm not an IS300 owner but rather a GS300 owner, I've had my car for just over a year, it has 123 000km on the ODO (+-76500 Miles). My car is well maintained, no prior issues at all.

The only mods before I did the turbo conversion was removing B2S1 and B2S2. Being from South Africa, our ECU's don't care about those two sensors as emissions isn't even a thing here, so I have no CEL, just two heater codes, no big deal.

My parts list included the following

Rev9 6266 Twin-Scroll AR70 Turbocharger
Generic eBay 2JZGE Turbo Manifold
Excell 38mm 2 Bolt Wastegate (Local brand, pretty much the best and most reliable wastegate around here)
-4AN Braided Line and Fittings for the oil feed (1/8 BSPT to 1/8NPT Adapter to use the oil sensor port for oil feed)
-10AN Braided Line and Fittings for the oil return (2JZ Oil return flange used instead of tapping or welding)
Aeromotive 1:1 Rising Rate FPR with -6AN to 10mm Hose Barb Rubber Fuel Hose for the Fuel Return
550mmx140mmx65mm Intercooler with Custom Piping and no BOV
Plug and Play O2 Splice made by myself
3" Downpipe made by a friend of mine, bolting to the stock exhaust system
Zeitronix ZT2 Wideband Gauge

Things left stock

ECU
Injectors
Fuel Pump (Because I bought a Walbro GSS340 instead of the correct GSS342 so this will have to wait, rather opting for a Quantum 340LPH due to the built in check valve)
Fuel Pressure (43.5 PSI)
MAF Housing (Chopped the MAF housing out of my spare air box so it reads 100% correct)

Things still to do

Make an intake
Run PCV hose to said intake
Run PS pressure release pipe to said intake too
Redo boost pipes so that my front bumper fits
Fix the minuscule leak on the sump because FIPG costs $60 here, ridiculous, but I'll just have to bite the bullet
Fit Transmission cooler

I've had everything fitted and running for 2 weeks now, boost set at 5 PSI. I've been keeping an eye on my AFR's and this is what I've learned.

At Idle and cruise my AFR's sit at a comfortable 14.5-14.9 and in boost around 11.4-11.9, never seeing above 12. The car feels great so far, I haven't had any issues. I don't rag on my car too often, I generally just do a pull into boost and then let off, but I've done a 3rd gear pull already just for the hell of it.

I'll update this thread with any issues or problems I run into over the course of the cars life, this is just so that there's more information regarding boost on the stock ECU.

This is my daily, I use her everyday however I do have another car should I run into issues.

Before





After

Pynoxim

Hey guys,

Last post from me for a while, just to dispel some of the misinformation that might be floating around regarding the stock ECU, boost and timing.



As you can see (And as stated somewhere on this site before), The Knock Sensors / Timing map based on airflow is VERY conservative. At 5400RPM at around 5'ish PSI I'm getting 11.5 Degrees Advance, my AFR's are high 10's, low 11's. Trans Temp hit a max of 102 F (I still don't have a trans cooler)

Only difference this time is that I have a Quantum 340LPH Fuel Pump and I've bumped the Fuel Pressure a bit more, the stock ECU compensates very well, still idling and cruising at stoich. It also Enriches on part throttle spool so that's nice.

Also lastly you can see the ECU only hits max calculated load at 200g/s and over. I'm at my limit here on the stock ECU basically but now I know I can happily drive it everywhere and not have to worry at all ever.

Pynoxim

Alright, so I had my Wastegate boost reference moved to after the intercooler as I was still suffering boost drop off, now it's completely sorted. I'm running spring pressure (0.4 bar / 5.6 PSI)

Also, the plugs that were fitted by the previous owner were IFR6T11's which are plugs for the 3GS, and they were gapped at 1.1mm (0.043") from the factory. Pulled all the plugs and gapped them to 0.8mm (0.032")

Put her back on the dyno today and look



So for comparison sake (In kw)

Stock: 148kw/264nm
1st Dyno : 182kw/411nm - 0.3 Bar Spike, 0.1 Bar at 6500RPM
2nd Dyno : 196kw/384nm - 0.5 Bar Spike, 0.3 Bar at 6500RPM
3rd Dyno : 213kw/361nm - 0.4 Bar

and in HP

Stock: 199Hp/195ftlb
1st Dyno : 245Hp/304ftlb - 4.2 PSI Spike, 1.4 PSI at 6500RPM
2nd Dyno : 264Hp/284ftlb - 7 PSI Spike, 4.2 PSI at 6500RPM
3rd Dyno : 288Hp/267ftlb - 5.6 PSI

Mind you, still stock ECU, Stock Injectors, Fuel Return, Quantum 340LPH Fuel Pump

Pynoxim

Some vids! Because who doesn't love vids?




And that's that for now

The only issue I still experience is a leaky oil pan. I've also shimmed the accumulators in my transmission to help with heat management, though it does give an unsatisfying bump when shifting from 2-1 as you come to a stop. I don't run an oil cooler as yet, my transmission temp in traffic is around 200 Deg F and under boost letting the transmission shift itself (Even slipping through 1-2) around 170 Deg F max

Pynoxim

Oh and! Build cost from NA to NA-T

ODO Mileage : 124 500km (77 360 mi) - Serviced at Lexus on time, every time.
Stock : 200HP/196ft/lb
Boosted : 6 PSI, 280HP/296ft/lb (Crank)

It's not fast, but it's faster than it ever was before. AFR's are great, the only thing I cannot measure is timing pull. Plugs look great, Fuelling is spot on 11.8-12.2 in Boost. Stock ECU, Stock Plugs, Stock MAF Housing, Stock Exhaust

Rev9 6266 T4 Twin Scroll .70AR Turbo - $340
eBay Turbo Manifold (The one with the 4 Bolt WG Flange at the bottom) - $180
Skim Manifold Flanges (They were all warped) - $40
Excell 2 Bolt 38mm Wastegate - $130
Excell 0.4 Bar WG Spring - $10
2 Bolt WG Flange - $12
Turbo Blanket - $35

Oil Feed Flange - $10
2m Braided -4AN Oil Feed Line - $32
90 Degree -4AN Swivel Fitting - $9
90 Degree -4AN Swivel Fitting - $9
1/8 BSPT to 1/8NPT T Adapter - $16

Oil Return Flange - $10
1m Braided -10AN Oil Return Line - $22
45 Degree -10AN Swivel Fitting - $12
Straight -10AN Fitting - $10
2JZ Oil Return Flange - $14
1/2" BSPT to -10AN Fitting - $6

2m 63mm (2.5") Stainless Steel Tubing - $22
10 * 63mm (2.5") Stainless Steel 90 Degree Bends - $75
4 * 76mm (3") Stainless Steel 90 Degree Bends - $48
1m 76mm Stainless Steel Tubing - Free
2 * 3" V-Bands - $35

45 Degree 101mm (4") Silicone Bend - $22
Straight 101mm (4") Aluminium Piece - $12
3 * 70mm to 63mm Couplers - $34
2 * 57mm to 63mm Reducers - $25
14 Various T-Bolt Clamps - $20
550x180x65mm Intercooler - $80

Quantum 340LPH Fuel Pump - $140
Aeromotive 1:1 RRFPR - $100
1/4 NPT to -6AN Straight - $9
2 * 90 Degree -6AN to Hose Barb (10mm) - $18
2 * Straight -6AN to Hose Barb (10mm) -$18
90 Degree -6AN to 3/4 NPT - $9
4m 10mm Fuel Hose - $24

Zeitronix ZT2 Wideband Gauge (2nd Hand) - $160
Boost Gauge - $10
Toyota Techstream Clone - $15
Narrowband Replacement Connectors (To create plug and play Mono O2) - $40
4m 3mm Silcone Vaccuum Hose - $16
Tube of Grey RTV for the sump - $10 (Regrets, it's leaking again in one spot, but FIPG was super expensive at the time)
MAF Housing chopped out of stock airbox

Total : $1817 +-5% for small odds and ends

A friend of mine did all my boost pipe and downpipe welding. Downpipe goes back into the stock exhaust, Wastegate vents to atmosphere. Everything else done by myself and a friend.

Pynoxim

Updated the thread title, I guess I was tired when I posted it up haha (Or not, I have no idea how to change the thread title)

CRASHMONK

iTrader: (1)

That's ok, anyone actually reading the thread will quickly get the gist.

I'm impressed. That's something that would keep me from boosting a factory computer Toyota, but as you and BBGS have proved, it's not only possible, it's reliable.

This sucker is as fast or faster than my chevy NA 4.8! I'm gonna have to step up my game here to keep up with you guys...

Pynoxim

Thanks so much for the feedback man I think it's time for you two add just a little bit of boost to your Chevy, then we don't stand a chance.

many1982

Hi
just fitted a T3/T4 ebay turbo with internal wastegate set at 0.4bar on my is300 2jz-ge vvti and it only revs up to 4000rpm. this is a budget ghetto turbo conversion. pipes are 2inches from turbo to intercooler, 2.5 from intercooler to throttle body, MAF sensor between throttle and intercooler, all o2 sensors are in and reading. runs sweet up to 4k revs. Any suggestions?
Thanks

Pynoxim

Hey, sounds like you either have a huge boost leak, your MAF is the wrong way around or it's a misfire. Check all these things and check your plug gap.

many1982

thanks for your attention
we've used a bit of old plastic intake pipe with MAF sensor and its perfect now.
will I keep original spark plugs with 0.8mm gap or should i get some different plugs??
my boost is only 0.3-0.4bar.

Pynoxim

Ah yeah, I used the stock MAF housing that I chopped out of a spare Airbox. Using a bigger diameter pipe will definitely cause issues. Also stock plus at 0.8mm is fine, or BKR7E's at 0.8mm work well too.

TrueGS300

This is a great thread. I am interested in a mild turbo build. I think it's cool you can use the stock ecu and have it run fine. I am wondering how necessary a FMIC and fuel pump upgrades are for such low boost? Coming from the DSM world it was understood that an FMIC would hinder performance until pushing upwards of 16lbs because it takes more time for the turbo to spool up (lag). I'm wondering if there is anything you would have done differently now or that you feel you didn't have to do? I imagine that to run 6-7psi I'd just want a very small turbo, a factory style small intercooler, and as close to stock in any other way as possible. Running all the necessary oil and coolant lines of course. My plans also include BC 264 cams with a goal of 300whp.

The turbo kit would need to come off for California smog time and the stock air box/catted exhaust manifold back in, but the cams will pass the sniffer and can stay installed. So I'm interested in the most basic turbo setup with small intercooler that I can mount in the engine bay maybe near the wheel well and no ecu mods. Any recommendations?

Pynoxim

I would definitely always use an FMIC in this case as the ECU likes to see NA related intake temps and without an IC who knows what the ECU will do if it seems temps that are far out of its range. You could use an Aristo V300 style IC that sits behind the passenger side front bumper which is nice and discreet, I'm sure you can also run your boost pipes in a way that allows you to still run your stock airbox though you'll have to get creative, you can also run a VW/Audi Recirculating Valve (710N) for discreetness. On the subject of smaller turbo's, yes, a nice GT3071/6 or even GT2871/6 for that instaspool instatorque would be amazing. Sure it doesn't flow as much air but it will be way more responsive especially since most driving time is spent below 3000rpm though just be sure to pop that sucker on a dyno because the 2JZ-GE has its limits which are the rods, and weak rods don't like early torque spikes, neither does the stock A650E or even W58, they will both become paperweights if pushed too hard, but the A650E can be Shimmed to be a good contender.

If you're looking for a decent aftermarket EMU/ECU to manage things once you've passed SMOG, you can always look into a Speeduino, they're around $250 and they'll run a 2JZ-GE just fine, along with some 550cc Injectors and just buy a 2nd hand ECU from the same year model as your own vehicle with a bit of the wiring harness, desolder the connector from the ECU and make a bridge harness, that way you can swap between stock ECU when the time comes for SMOG and then back to your aftermarket ECU after that (But the stock setup will work just fine).

TrueGS300

I have an Injen intake I'll hack to make work for whatever setup I go with. Nothing needs to be discrete since It all has to come out for smog anyway. I would use a V300 side mount to make removal and installation much easier than an FMIC. An oil filter sandwich adapter for the oil cooler lines. No drilling the block like I've done in the past. The turbo manifold and down pipe will fit to the factory midpipe. Everything will be easily removable and replaced. I can sacrifice a few horsepower and use the side mount inter cooler etc. It's worth it for what I have to do.

My interest is in just keeping the ecu stock and just making due with what I can. Like I said, I am willing to sacrifice some power for simplicity. I can't chance ruining the factory tune so that it will be perfect when I go back to stock. This is why your thread got me interested in doing this again. I had given up on the idea before. But now it seems like I can get a decent little NA-T build for under $1,500 done. And relatively easy.

So you think the fuel pump is still a must? And if a bigger turbo is better for cooler temps and longevity/safer boost. I'm definitely interested in that. Not sure about those things so open to your recommendations. I guess I figured smaller is safer. But I want the trans and everything to stay safe.