Possible Tranny Problem..
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: FL
Possible Tranny Problem..
As much as i hate to report any issues with my lexus i've noticed with in the last 2 months maybe 3 when i would take the car out the car would jerk between 40 and 60mph... seems to shift fine but when i'm doing 45 or get to around 60 the car literally does this jerk type moment..
I checked the fluid and its a nice cherry color.. i've done one drain and fill maybe last year sometime..
no strange RPM spikes or strange accelerations. Some mentioned maybe a solenoid or I'm thinking torque converter maybe...
any insight on this.. thanks
I checked the fluid and its a nice cherry color.. i've done one drain and fill maybe last year sometime..
no strange RPM spikes or strange accelerations. Some mentioned maybe a solenoid or I'm thinking torque converter maybe...
any insight on this.. thanks
Hi,
I would check into your CAM or Crank sensors and/or harnesses going to them. This sounds like something with these parts could be failing. It starts like that intermittently and then happens more frequent at any speed. Then, when it gets real bad it will stall on you while your driving or coming to a stop. If the crank sensor goes it will eventually prevent the car from starting. Could also be the TPS, you may not get a code for any of these at first since I believe it has to happen frequently prior to throwing a CEL. My car had issues like this and found my bank 1 CAM sensor failed internally (oil was getting through to the electrical connector side and affecting the CAM signal. Replaced that and the Crank sensor because it was easy and for good measure.
Good luck
I would check into your CAM or Crank sensors and/or harnesses going to them. This sounds like something with these parts could be failing. It starts like that intermittently and then happens more frequent at any speed. Then, when it gets real bad it will stall on you while your driving or coming to a stop. If the crank sensor goes it will eventually prevent the car from starting. Could also be the TPS, you may not get a code for any of these at first since I believe it has to happen frequently prior to throwing a CEL. My car had issues like this and found my bank 1 CAM sensor failed internally (oil was getting through to the electrical connector side and affecting the CAM signal. Replaced that and the Crank sensor because it was easy and for good measure.
Good luck
around those speeds the torque converter is usually locking up. its possible either its not fully engaging for some reason or the solenoid that controls line pressure to it is not good enough which is not engaging the clutch thats built into the torque converter. one way to test if its the converter is to drive the vehicle and get it to act up than while holding you foot on the gas pedal apply the brake a decent amount. that will tell the ecm to disengage the torque converter. if the shudder feeling goes away, than likely its coming from the converter itself or the lock up solenoid is malfunctioning. there is a way to test the electrical integrity of the lock up circuit from the ecm all the way to the solenoid itself. if it tests out too high an ohms reading than its either the wiring going to the trans. or the solenoid itself. which would than entail dropping the trans pan and unplugging the lockup solenoid than measuring the resistance right at the solenoid. whew
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 21,942
Likes: 64
From: FL
around those speeds the torque converter is usually locking up. its possible either its not fully engaging for some reason or the solenoid that controls line pressure to it is not good enough which is not engaging the clutch thats built into the torque converter. one way to test if its the converter is to drive the vehicle and get it to act up than while holding you foot on the gas pedal apply the brake a decent amount. that will tell the ecm to disengage the torque converter. if the shudder feeling goes away, than likely its coming from the converter itself or the lock up solenoid is malfunctioning. there is a way to test the electrical integrity of the lock up circuit from the ecm all the way to the solenoid itself. if it tests out too high an ohms reading than its either the wiring going to the trans. or the solenoid itself. which would than entail dropping the trans pan and unplugging the lockup solenoid than measuring the resistance right at the solenoid. whew
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 21,942
Likes: 64
From: FL
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Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: FL
ok... just got word from the mechanic and its a bad coil #2... also he said my spark plugs were loose... I guess with the vibrations of the engine but i just replaced those not to long ago and also at the time replaced a coil because i ripped it in two.. but this was a different coil..a little re leaved to say the least...
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That's good news Tony, I'm surprised you didn't feel any engine vibration at idle, usually a bad coil would eventually set the check engine light. I'm glad it wasn't the transmission going out though.
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From: FL
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