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I literally just got a check engine light yesterday and the car is throwing a EVAP code. I'm going to do some poking around now to see if maybe one of the hoses on the EVAP system came loose. Using the stock tube for the intake will definitely save time and money. I would just recommend checking the original tube sore signs of wear or cracks before reusing it
Finished mine yesterday. I spent $36 total. I got the silicone couplers and brass fittings from eBay, and the PVC pipe and two hose clamps from Ace Hardware.
The 90° elbow coupling has to be 3.5 inches internal diameter all the way through, and the straight coupling to go to the airbox has to be 3.5 inches on one end and 3 inches on the other. The pipe should be 3 inches internal diameter, and the one I got was black ABS and fit the couplers perfectly.
The brass fittings are 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 inch barbs. Thread size doesn’t matter too much. I originally bought locknuts to hold them in place from the inside of the PVC pipe, but I discovered that I could hand-file the holes just smaller than the threads and they held in place just fine when screwing them directly into the pipe.
3/8 inch vacuum line works perfect for the PCV. Soak the one end in hot water and it’ll stretch over the largest fitting no problem. I used 1/4 inch vacuum line for everything else.
I don’t really notice a difference in power. Maybe it’s a tad more responsive down low. But at least I don’t have cracks and vacuum leaks anymore. This one will outlast OEM by at least 50 years.
this info is golden. I went to my local Ace Hardware and they claimed they had no 3" pipe of the sort. I checked Home Depot as well and they only have white pvc pipe. I'd rather run the black pipe like eicca because it looks so much better
I ported my intake box with a 2inch diameter ABS pipe(black pvc) 3 inch deep with a 90 degree elbow also with 3inch length 2inch diameter pipe heading dow n behind the headlight, with k&n square filter, have you gotten any check engine light ?
Originally Posted by eicca
Finished mine yesterday. I spent $36 total. I got the silicone couplers and brass fittings from eBay, and the PVC pipe and two hose clamps from Ace Hardware.
The 90° elbow coupling has to be 3.5 inches internal diameter all the way through, and the straight coupling to go to the airbox has to be 3.5 inches on one end and 3 inches on the other. The pipe should be 3 inches internal diameter, and the one I got was black ABS and fit the couplers perfectly.
The brass fittings are 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 inch barbs. Thread size doesn’t matter too much. I originally bought locknuts to hold them in place from the inside of the PVC pipe, but I discovered that I could hand-file the holes just smaller than the threads and they held in place just fine when screwing them directly into the pipe.
3/8 inch vacuum line works perfect for the PCV. Soak the one end in hot water and it’ll stretch over the largest fitting no problem. I used 1/4 inch vacuum line for everything else.
I don’t really notice a difference in power. Maybe it’s a tad more responsive down low. But at least I don’t have cracks and vacuum leaks anymore. This one will outlast OEM by at least 50 years.
That is a solenoid for the EVAP system, if you want to do this mod just extend the vacuum hoses and fab a bracket to hold the solenoid. I am working on this mod as we speak, however, I am using the original intake tube. I cut off the boxed section of the intake assembly, capped the opening and installed three vacuum barbed fittings.
I will post some pics when I get back from vacation next week.
How did you cap the opening after you cut off the boxed section of the intake assembly?