I removed the air silencer from the bottom of the intake tube. I pulled the inner wheel well back to pull it out. I bought a intake hose for the older cars and ran it through the hole where the old silencer use to be. They are like $10.00. I will connected the new intake hole to the air box. I will had to cut the intake air horn back closer to the filter box and place a small self taping screw to hold the new hose on. The pictures are of the silencer inside the fender area. There is a nice source of fresh air that is blown in from the opening in the front bumper If one didn't want to replace the entire intake nose they could just cut a nice hole in the intake silencer. Cheapest mod I have ever done. Sounds great, and feels a little better on the top end after 4500-5000 rpm. If your on a budget this is the way to go. I have not seen an aftermarket intake that does not suck in hot air so I went at it myself.

 

The camera died so I didn't finish with the install pics. Also I did have to make the hole in the filter box a little bigger. These are pics of the factory air horn and after the install. The one that is hard to see is the new hose inside the fender well.

 

Looks like that should work well. You're 100% right about the hot air thing with all of the aftermarket "systems".

 

I was also surprised to see that in inner fender well is cleaner than under the hood.

 

These things are so much fun

 

I have about 200 miles on the car after messing with the intake. It feels different. I seems to be shifting at a lower rpm during regular driving. Before shifts out of first and second where at 3k+ rpm now they are at 25-28k rpm. Mid-upper power ban feels great. No change or loss of lower rpm power. I would not think that the car would shift sooner but accelerates the same with less rpm. Fuel mileage unknown yet but has jumped 1/10th on the display. 17.8 to 17.9 Maybe I should have disconnected the battery over night.

Anyone with different intakes ever notice any changes in shifting?

 

You kind of feel the acceleration pick up earlier...that's the only way to describe it with one of these systems, and it feels even better if you have a good-flow exhaust system.

 

cool, thats what i did, except i kept the stock y entrance part, attached a hose on the bottom to a curved L pipe and put a cut oil funnel at the end. i kept the stock y entrance in case i hit water.

 

Nice, I ditched the other part because it narrowed to less than two inches. The new hose is 2-3/4 inches all the way up. The rest of the intake from the filter box to intake manifold flows good.

I told my wife no water fording with this car. Just park it and I'll get her in my old beat up T100

 

Quick question. Where do you have the new intake running from?

 

the L pipe replaces the air intake silencer and air goes into the modified oil funnel through the opening on the bumper. similar to varithms' setup.

 

What do you use for piping on these setups?

 

I'm using a flexible intake pipe I found at autozone. I had to make the hole in the filter box bigger so I stuffed the big part of the new tube in the filter box. I didn't get crazy so the new tube fit nice and snug. I opened up the bottom of the existing hole in the filter box so I could use part of the outlet to get a hose clamp on it. The new tube runs under the fuse box and dropps down where the air silencer in the fender well was.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...uestid=3197899

 

Very similar mod to what the fiero guys do taking the dampers out. Kinda funny how most factory sets up are cool air and people run a pod next to the exhaust and tell themselves they are running more power. If you want even more power now experiment with airflow meters you might find something with same plug that will give more power.

 

That and the possibility of the loss of low end power to gain marginal numbers on the top end of the rpm range. I have had some and went back to the stock intake with a good drop in filter for the stock box.

Some of the CAI sound much louder I guess that has a mental affect to go with it.

Some of the earlier EFI systems a resistor could be wired into the intake air temperature sensor to "fool" the computer into thinking the air is cooler and would add a few degrees of timing. It just meant the use of 89 or higher octane. Now with knock sensors it is a littler harder.