Synthetic Oil - Change Interval
11-20-12, 02:47 PM
#121
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
No they dont, But the ODBII system in our GS300's basically does that for them, which is why on 1996 & newer ODBII equiped cars they dont do that testing.
Correction - The last time I took it in, since it was over 12 years old they did rev the engine to different levels, I didnt pay attention see if they did the gas sampling though, and the test facility has the Dynos on the floor and I honestly cant remember if they put it in gear or not, I just know they reved the engine for a few minutes and they definitely ha the ODBII hooked up the entire time. I have to go in for testing again next year, I will pay better attention.
The ECU gets the readings from the Pre and Post Cat O2 sensors, along with the timing and fuel Map info and can determine if its running rich, lean, or other problems such as non ignition.
That info tells the ECU whether or not the Engine is combusting the fuel efficiently within a specified range.
That combined with the fact that my car doesnt smoke, not even a little on cold day start ups, and has no excessive Carbon/Soot or Oil in the tail pipes, still gets very close to the factory estimated EPA Gas mileage, and still accelerates and maintains high speed on long trips tells me its good also.
Id be interested to see an actual gas sample, but im not going to pay for it.
Correction - The last time I took it in, since it was over 12 years old they did rev the engine to different levels, I didnt pay attention see if they did the gas sampling though, and the test facility has the Dynos on the floor and I honestly cant remember if they put it in gear or not, I just know they reved the engine for a few minutes and they definitely ha the ODBII hooked up the entire time. I have to go in for testing again next year, I will pay better attention.
The ECU gets the readings from the Pre and Post Cat O2 sensors, along with the timing and fuel Map info and can determine if its running rich, lean, or other problems such as non ignition.
That info tells the ECU whether or not the Engine is combusting the fuel efficiently within a specified range.
That combined with the fact that my car doesnt smoke, not even a little on cold day start ups, and has no excessive Carbon/Soot or Oil in the tail pipes, still gets very close to the factory estimated EPA Gas mileage, and still accelerates and maintains high speed on long trips tells me its good also.
Id be interested to see an actual gas sample, but im not going to pay for it.
Last edited by az-dave; 11-20-12 at 02:52 PM.
11-21-12, 04:12 PM
#123
No they dont, But the ODBII system in our GS300's basically does that for them, which is why on 1996 & newer ODBII equiped cars they dont do that testing.
Correction - The last time I took it in, since it was over 12 years old they did rev the engine to different levels, I didnt pay attention see if they did the gas sampling though, and the test facility has the Dynos on the floor and I honestly cant remember if they put it in gear or not, I just know they reved the engine for a few minutes and they definitely ha the ODBII hooked up the entire time. I have to go in for testing again next year, I will pay better attention.
The ECU gets the readings from the Pre and Post Cat O2 sensors, along with the timing and fuel Map info and can determine if its running rich, lean, or other problems such as non ignition.
That info tells the ECU whether or not the Engine is combusting the fuel efficiently within a specified range.
That combined with the fact that my car doesnt smoke, not even a little on cold day start ups, and has no excessive Carbon/Soot or Oil in the tail pipes, still gets very close to the factory estimated EPA Gas mileage, and still accelerates and maintains high speed on long trips tells me its good also.
Id be interested to see an actual gas sample, but im not going to pay for it.
Correction - The last time I took it in, since it was over 12 years old they did rev the engine to different levels, I didnt pay attention see if they did the gas sampling though, and the test facility has the Dynos on the floor and I honestly cant remember if they put it in gear or not, I just know they reved the engine for a few minutes and they definitely ha the ODBII hooked up the entire time. I have to go in for testing again next year, I will pay better attention.
The ECU gets the readings from the Pre and Post Cat O2 sensors, along with the timing and fuel Map info and can determine if its running rich, lean, or other problems such as non ignition.
That info tells the ECU whether or not the Engine is combusting the fuel efficiently within a specified range.
That combined with the fact that my car doesnt smoke, not even a little on cold day start ups, and has no excessive Carbon/Soot or Oil in the tail pipes, still gets very close to the factory estimated EPA Gas mileage, and still accelerates and maintains high speed on long trips tells me its good also.
Id be interested to see an actual gas sample, but im not going to pay for it.
11-26-12, 07:58 AM
#124
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
In AZ they do both depending on age of car. All I know is my car still drives awesome :-) :-)
Some states doesn't require smog check. Some only requires OBDII check and no tailpipe emission testing. But in California, all cars that are testable on the dyno are require the tailpipe emission testing. Even diesels needs to be smog now in CA but not tailpipe emission testing though.
03-08-13, 07:59 AM
#126
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Ok, Its been almost 2 years, and I finally broke 260,000 miles a week ago....told ya'al it would be a while...
Since 250,000 miles, I have done 2 oil filter changes, each took approx 1 qt of oil, since the old filter looses oil, etc. In between each change I also added between 1 to 1.5 qts - thats still well within Toyotas "allowable" parameter of 1 qt every 2000 miles. Its more than it used to be, but less than some horror stories Ive read where cars are burning thru 1 qt every 500 to 1000 miles (Ouch!)...
Once I get unlazy I will get an oil sample analyzed and post the results...until then, I continue the quest :-)
PS: Since then the following items have broke/started to failed...But the Engine and Tranny remain Solid:
1 - Fuel Lid solenoid went out, preventing me from being able to get to my gas cap when I was bone dry...forcing me to pry open the cover which dented it :-(
2 - Fuel Pump mounting inside gas tank (pump itself good) - the plastic parts finally dissentegrated and O-rings to filter gone. Replaced.
3 - Brake Lights on Trunk lid (the small ones) - completely washed out and clear...sunlight evidently fades the red to clear...opened them up and sprayed inside with clear red paint and re-sealed...looks pretty good now.
4 - steering wheel ripped, matches my torn leather seat I guess :-)
5 - Arm Rest leather cracked and rough - guess it matches the torn front leather seats as well.
6 - Sun Roof stopped working - kinda fixed it, pain in the a** - the cables rusted and was able to kinda clean them...works for now.
7 - Window tinting pealing on all 4 doors plus rear
8 - Pass Front window automatically roles down when using the "Auto" up, so I have to hold the button now.
9 - Paint Peeling from the surrounds around the door handles and from the rear spoiler (which was painted by the original lexus dealership, and repainted 6 years ago...what gives with dealers not using UV-resistant paints)
10 - Lights in Radio completely went out
11 - LCD screen on Radio displays giberish, but it still plays music pretty good.
12 - Remote Key works only when within about 10 ft, both remotes have new keys...and the beeper is almost impossible to hear.
13 - Occasionally the ignition will stay on after key is removed...I think the tumblers inside the ignition are getting worn.
14 - AC works, but when ober 100 deg outside it likes to turn itself off and light blinks, pressing AC buttin on/off resets it, and cold air comes back.
Other than that, it starts, runs, and drives pretty dang nice!
As can be seen...apparently other things on the car age and break well before these engines will...I treated my leather 4 times a year, and it lasted til about 240K miles...Im not complaining...but the inside of my ride looks trashy now :-) hehe
Since 250,000 miles, I have done 2 oil filter changes, each took approx 1 qt of oil, since the old filter looses oil, etc. In between each change I also added between 1 to 1.5 qts - thats still well within Toyotas "allowable" parameter of 1 qt every 2000 miles. Its more than it used to be, but less than some horror stories Ive read where cars are burning thru 1 qt every 500 to 1000 miles (Ouch!)...
Once I get unlazy I will get an oil sample analyzed and post the results...until then, I continue the quest :-)
PS: Since then the following items have broke/started to failed...But the Engine and Tranny remain Solid:
1 - Fuel Lid solenoid went out, preventing me from being able to get to my gas cap when I was bone dry...forcing me to pry open the cover which dented it :-(
2 - Fuel Pump mounting inside gas tank (pump itself good) - the plastic parts finally dissentegrated and O-rings to filter gone. Replaced.
3 - Brake Lights on Trunk lid (the small ones) - completely washed out and clear...sunlight evidently fades the red to clear...opened them up and sprayed inside with clear red paint and re-sealed...looks pretty good now.
4 - steering wheel ripped, matches my torn leather seat I guess :-)
5 - Arm Rest leather cracked and rough - guess it matches the torn front leather seats as well.
6 - Sun Roof stopped working - kinda fixed it, pain in the a** - the cables rusted and was able to kinda clean them...works for now.
7 - Window tinting pealing on all 4 doors plus rear
8 - Pass Front window automatically roles down when using the "Auto" up, so I have to hold the button now.
9 - Paint Peeling from the surrounds around the door handles and from the rear spoiler (which was painted by the original lexus dealership, and repainted 6 years ago...what gives with dealers not using UV-resistant paints)
10 - Lights in Radio completely went out
11 - LCD screen on Radio displays giberish, but it still plays music pretty good.
12 - Remote Key works only when within about 10 ft, both remotes have new keys...and the beeper is almost impossible to hear.
13 - Occasionally the ignition will stay on after key is removed...I think the tumblers inside the ignition are getting worn.
14 - AC works, but when ober 100 deg outside it likes to turn itself off and light blinks, pressing AC buttin on/off resets it, and cold air comes back.
Other than that, it starts, runs, and drives pretty dang nice!
As can be seen...apparently other things on the car age and break well before these engines will...I treated my leather 4 times a year, and it lasted til about 240K miles...Im not complaining...but the inside of my ride looks trashy now :-) hehe
Last edited by az-dave; 03-08-13 at 08:12 AM.
10-20-17, 06:41 PM
#128
Honda
I have a '97 Honda Civic (purchased new). I changed the oil every 7500 miles and used both expensive and inexpensive (bottom of line) Fram oil filters and always used 20-50 Castrol Oil (not synthetic). The car currently has 278 000 miles and runs just fine. The oil always looks dirty but runs clean over my fingers. Mostly I do Freeway driving 65-70 mph. The biggest repair I have had is burning out front axles, no engine problems other than one O2 sensor,spark plugs and batteries. I am definigtely with you on the thick oil-thin oil saga. You are right on the money.
09-11-18, 08:52 PM
#130
Lexus Test Driver
I change the oil on my newer vehicles (including the RX300s) every 5000 miles. Years ago I had a BMW 320i and I did 3000 miles. My 1992 GMC Typhoon (with the Syclone drivetrain, 4.3L turbo) required Mobil 1 every 3000 miles to avoid voiding the warranty. It was probably overkill, but I imagine some of those trucks were driven pretty hard. My old aircooled VW beetles get a change every 3000 miles, also. They aren't driven a lot and they use dino oil.
12-02-19, 12:27 AM
#131
Driver School Candidate
5000 changes are a waist‼️
As promised in my other thread about the random misfire I was getting, I want to start a rather provocative thread concerning the use of Synthetic Oil, Oil Change intervals, and Oil filters. Lets begin:
For starters I use Valvoline 100% Synthetic 10-30 since approx 35K miles.
Ive used either K&N or Similar High-end Oil filters, never Fram or others. Ever.
My car has 250K miles on it now. I recently change the VVTi OCV Valve because the electric solenoid failed. Prior to replacing it, I disassembled the valve, and made sure it was not plugged up and that the valve plunger moved freely, I tested the valve per Lexus procedure and it was the solenoid coil that failed. Ten OCV Filter was clean as a whistle, not a single lick of sludge or hardened oil particles.
I also replaced my Oil Pan Gasket, and both Valve Cover Gaskets 2 weeks ago when I was fixing the misfire problem.
The inside of the Oil pan was clean, with no sludge, no metal shavings, nothing other than semi-dirty oil as would be expected. The inside of the valve covers, the Heads, the Cam-Shafts and Valve lifters were all honey in color, cleaner than I can explain, not a single sign of wear on the cam lobes or lifters. Clean.
Now...for the part that Im am certain will have people all up in arms, telling me all my prior problems, non of which had anything to do with the Oil system, are caused by this one simple fact:
I have changed my Oil 5 times after switching to 100% Synthetic at 35,000 miles. I have changed my Oil filter every 6-8K miles. My car has 248K+ miles on it now (I call it 250K) About every 45-50K miles I actually change the oil, with 5-6 oil filters in between.
Yes, re-read that again: - 1st Synthetic switch plus 5 Oil changes in 215K miles, with only high-end Oil filters in between. It doesnt burn Oil, has as much power as it did way back when, passes all emissions, has no CEL codes and has ZERO, absolutely ZERO sludge in the lower and upper engine.
I did this with a car from 1994-2001, I ran that car to 260K miles, it was an american car, it still ran when I got rid of it, the only thing is the AC compressor went out, and living in AZ I wasnt gunna spend money to fix it. It also had no sludge and easily would roast the tires.
So...is it a fluke, or is the really important thing here that Oil filters are the really important component in maintaining oil quality? Also, Synthetic oil molecules are different than Petro Oil, they are all consistent in size, and smaller than Petrol...it was explained to me that Synthetic oil doesnt break down into petroleum by-products anywhere near as fast as Petrol Oil does...and that engines are basically a low-tech refinery.
So...comments please.
For starters I use Valvoline 100% Synthetic 10-30 since approx 35K miles.
Ive used either K&N or Similar High-end Oil filters, never Fram or others. Ever.
My car has 250K miles on it now. I recently change the VVTi OCV Valve because the electric solenoid failed. Prior to replacing it, I disassembled the valve, and made sure it was not plugged up and that the valve plunger moved freely, I tested the valve per Lexus procedure and it was the solenoid coil that failed. Ten OCV Filter was clean as a whistle, not a single lick of sludge or hardened oil particles.
I also replaced my Oil Pan Gasket, and both Valve Cover Gaskets 2 weeks ago when I was fixing the misfire problem.
The inside of the Oil pan was clean, with no sludge, no metal shavings, nothing other than semi-dirty oil as would be expected. The inside of the valve covers, the Heads, the Cam-Shafts and Valve lifters were all honey in color, cleaner than I can explain, not a single sign of wear on the cam lobes or lifters. Clean.
Now...for the part that Im am certain will have people all up in arms, telling me all my prior problems, non of which had anything to do with the Oil system, are caused by this one simple fact:
I have changed my Oil 5 times after switching to 100% Synthetic at 35,000 miles. I have changed my Oil filter every 6-8K miles. My car has 248K+ miles on it now (I call it 250K) About every 45-50K miles I actually change the oil, with 5-6 oil filters in between.
Yes, re-read that again: - 1st Synthetic switch plus 5 Oil changes in 215K miles, with only high-end Oil filters in between. It doesnt burn Oil, has as much power as it did way back when, passes all emissions, has no CEL codes and has ZERO, absolutely ZERO sludge in the lower and upper engine.
I did this with a car from 1994-2001, I ran that car to 260K miles, it was an american car, it still ran when I got rid of it, the only thing is the AC compressor went out, and living in AZ I wasnt gunna spend money to fix it. It also had no sludge and easily would roast the tires.
So...is it a fluke, or is the really important thing here that Oil filters are the really important component in maintaining oil quality? Also, Synthetic oil molecules are different than Petro Oil, they are all consistent in size, and smaller than Petrol...it was explained to me that Synthetic oil doesnt break down into petroleum by-products anywhere near as fast as Petrol Oil does...and that engines are basically a low-tech refinery.
So...comments please.
12-05-19, 10:18 AM
#132
2013 LS460 low mileage user
I'm glad I've found this interesting thread on synthetic oil's longevity characteristic. I don't use much with my LS since last year and I'm due for an oil change. Since I realize my car doesn't get the required exercise. I was planning to change the oil less often. Maybe putting synthetic instead of petroleum kind. I have an older LS400 as my daily driver which helps me relieve the pain of getting dinged by some idiot parking next to me.
The owners manual of my newer LS recommends using 5w-20 in warm areas, & 0w-20 in cold areas. We have very mild winter here on the west coast of Canada. This newer baby ain't going into the rain even in summer. For this reason, I need some advice as to how often I should change the oil if it is 100% synthetic. On the average I put in about 4K miles a year in this baby. Thank you.
The owners manual of my newer LS recommends using 5w-20 in warm areas, & 0w-20 in cold areas. We have very mild winter here on the west coast of Canada. This newer baby ain't going into the rain even in summer. For this reason, I need some advice as to how often I should change the oil if it is 100% synthetic. On the average I put in about 4K miles a year in this baby. Thank you.
12-06-22, 05:52 PM
#133
Oil change in desert
Hi I am a bit confused following these threads. I was told to get my oil changed every 6 months no mater how many miles because I live in the desert. (las Vegas.) I have to use synthetic I have a Lexus Sport turbo. I had to get this car when I moved here and trade my Camaro sadly. I used to just change my Camaro when it had 40% life in CA. It was a great car and I didn't mind getting the oil changed more often. I like this Lexus and want to take care of it even though I miss my Camaros. Any advise? Also what type of oil?
Last edited by Zengirl; 12-06-22 at 05:53 PM. Reason: typo
12-07-22, 07:38 PM
#134
I'm guessing based on your avatar pic you have a newer IS turbo. This is the wrong forum. So check your owner's manual. If you don't have one, here's what 15 seconds of google found me / you: https://support.lexus.com/s/article/...-oil-chan-8201
12-07-22, 08:19 PM
#135
Hi Kyle:
I do have a Lexus not so new. I see other Turbos on here I thought this is for all Lexuses. I see other makes here too.
I have a manual thank you. I wanted other opinions since I had a couple issues so I wanted to come on here and get other opiniuns. Thank you so much for your time.
Have a great evening,
I do have a Lexus not so new. I see other Turbos on here I thought this is for all Lexuses. I see other makes here too.
I have a manual thank you. I wanted other opinions since I had a couple issues so I wanted to come on here and get other opiniuns. Thank you so much for your time.
Have a great evening,
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