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Synthetic Oil - Change Interval

Old 11-20-12, 02:47 PM
  #121  
az-dave
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No they dont, But the ODBII system in our GS300's basically does that for them, which is why on 1996 & newer ODBII equiped cars they dont do that testing.

Correction - The last time I took it in, since it was over 12 years old they did rev the engine to different levels, I didnt pay attention see if they did the gas sampling though, and the test facility has the Dynos on the floor and I honestly cant remember if they put it in gear or not, I just know they reved the engine for a few minutes and they definitely ha the ODBII hooked up the entire time. I have to go in for testing again next year, I will pay better attention.

The ECU gets the readings from the Pre and Post Cat O2 sensors, along with the timing and fuel Map info and can determine if its running rich, lean, or other problems such as non ignition.

That info tells the ECU whether or not the Engine is combusting the fuel efficiently within a specified range.

That combined with the fact that my car doesnt smoke, not even a little on cold day start ups, and has no excessive Carbon/Soot or Oil in the tail pipes, still gets very close to the factory estimated EPA Gas mileage, and still accelerates and maintains high speed on long trips tells me its good also.

Id be interested to see an actual gas sample, but im not going to pay for it.

Originally Posted by GS4_Fiend View Post
Does AZ do Tailpipe emission testing? Dyno or no dyno testing?

Last edited by az-dave; 11-20-12 at 02:52 PM.
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Old 11-20-12, 09:33 PM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by GS4_Fiend View Post
I only run OEM filter on my Lexus. But I've been using Fram filters on my honda with no problems for years.
I would change to puralator for your Honda if I was you.
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Old 11-21-12, 04:12 PM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by az-dave View Post
No they dont, But the ODBII system in our GS300's basically does that for them, which is why on 1996 & newer ODBII equiped cars they dont do that testing.

Correction - The last time I took it in, since it was over 12 years old they did rev the engine to different levels, I didnt pay attention see if they did the gas sampling though, and the test facility has the Dynos on the floor and I honestly cant remember if they put it in gear or not, I just know they reved the engine for a few minutes and they definitely ha the ODBII hooked up the entire time. I have to go in for testing again next year, I will pay better attention.

The ECU gets the readings from the Pre and Post Cat O2 sensors, along with the timing and fuel Map info and can determine if its running rich, lean, or other problems such as non ignition.

That info tells the ECU whether or not the Engine is combusting the fuel efficiently within a specified range.

That combined with the fact that my car doesnt smoke, not even a little on cold day start ups, and has no excessive Carbon/Soot or Oil in the tail pipes, still gets very close to the factory estimated EPA Gas mileage, and still accelerates and maintains high speed on long trips tells me its good also.

Id be interested to see an actual gas sample, but im not going to pay for it.
Some states doesn't require smog check. Some only requires OBDII check and no tailpipe emission testing. But in California, all cars that are testable on the dyno are require the tailpipe emission testing. Even diesels needs to be smog now in CA but not tailpipe emission testing though.
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Old 11-26-12, 07:58 AM
  #124  
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In AZ they do both depending on age of car. All I know is my car still drives awesome :-) :-)

Originally Posted by GS4_Fiend View Post
Some states doesn't require smog check. Some only requires OBDII check and no tailpipe emission testing. But in California, all cars that are testable on the dyno are require the tailpipe emission testing. Even diesels needs to be smog now in CA but not tailpipe emission testing though.
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Old 12-17-12, 09:07 PM
  #125  
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This is a pretty cool thread...
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Old 03-08-13, 07:59 AM
  #126  
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Ok, Its been almost 2 years, and I finally broke 260,000 miles a week ago....told ya'al it would be a while...

Since 250,000 miles, I have done 2 oil filter changes, each took approx 1 qt of oil, since the old filter looses oil, etc. In between each change I also added between 1 to 1.5 qts - thats still well within Toyotas "allowable" parameter of 1 qt every 2000 miles. Its more than it used to be, but less than some horror stories Ive read where cars are burning thru 1 qt every 500 to 1000 miles (Ouch!)...

Once I get unlazy I will get an oil sample analyzed and post the results...until then, I continue the quest :-)

PS: Since then the following items have broke/started to failed...But the Engine and Tranny remain Solid:
1 - Fuel Lid solenoid went out, preventing me from being able to get to my gas cap when I was bone dry...forcing me to pry open the cover which dented it :-(
2 - Fuel Pump mounting inside gas tank (pump itself good) - the plastic parts finally dissentegrated and O-rings to filter gone. Replaced.
3 - Brake Lights on Trunk lid (the small ones) - completely washed out and clear...sunlight evidently fades the red to clear...opened them up and sprayed inside with clear red paint and re-sealed...looks pretty good now.
4 - steering wheel ripped, matches my torn leather seat I guess :-)
5 - Arm Rest leather cracked and rough - guess it matches the torn front leather seats as well.
6 - Sun Roof stopped working - kinda fixed it, pain in the a** - the cables rusted and was able to kinda clean them...works for now.
7 - Window tinting pealing on all 4 doors plus rear
8 - Pass Front window automatically roles down when using the "Auto" up, so I have to hold the button now.
9 - Paint Peeling from the surrounds around the door handles and from the rear spoiler (which was painted by the original lexus dealership, and repainted 6 years ago...what gives with dealers not using UV-resistant paints)
10 - Lights in Radio completely went out
11 - LCD screen on Radio displays giberish, but it still plays music pretty good.
12 - Remote Key works only when within about 10 ft, both remotes have new keys...and the beeper is almost impossible to hear.
13 - Occasionally the ignition will stay on after key is removed...I think the tumblers inside the ignition are getting worn.
14 - AC works, but when ober 100 deg outside it likes to turn itself off and light blinks, pressing AC buttin on/off resets it, and cold air comes back.

Other than that, it starts, runs, and drives pretty dang nice!

As can be seen...apparently other things on the car age and break well before these engines will...I treated my leather 4 times a year, and it lasted til about 240K miles...Im not complaining...but the inside of my ride looks trashy now :-) hehe

Last edited by az-dave; 03-08-13 at 08:12 AM.
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Old 08-28-17, 06:37 AM
  #127  
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az-dave so we never heard back on this? Did you car blow up or what happened?
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Old 10-20-17, 06:41 PM
  #128  
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I have a '97 Honda Civic (purchased new). I changed the oil every 7500 miles and used both expensive and inexpensive (bottom of line) Fram oil filters and always used 20-50 Castrol Oil (not synthetic). The car currently has 278 000 miles and runs just fine. The oil always looks dirty but runs clean over my fingers. Mostly I do Freeway driving 65-70 mph. The biggest repair I have had is burning out front axles, no engine problems other than one O2 sensor,spark plugs and batteries. I am definigtely with you on the thick oil-thin oil saga. You are right on the money.
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Old 02-01-18, 04:01 PM
  #129  
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yeah man, this was one of the first threads I ever read, back in '12. Been waiting a while for my results.
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Old 09-11-18, 08:52 PM
  #130  
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I change the oil on my newer vehicles (including the RX300s) every 5000 miles. Years ago I had a BMW 320i and I did 3000 miles. My 1992 GMC Typhoon (with the Syclone drivetrain, 4.3L turbo) required Mobil 1 every 3000 miles to avoid voiding the warranty. It was probably overkill, but I imagine some of those trucks were driven pretty hard. My old aircooled VW beetles get a change every 3000 miles, also. They aren't driven a lot and they use dino oil.
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