Synthetic Oil - Change Interval
08-19-11, 01:58 PM
#76
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I have spent 2 days reading this thread and I can agree with you AZ-DAVE. I have a 91 LS400 with over 234k and I brought my LS400 brand new and I have always changed the oil at manufactures 7500k and I have always changed the oil filter once a year since I brought my Lexus in CA and this is according to the maintenance interval. I switched to AMSOIL in 2001 and I have pushed it to 10k but I change my oil filter every 5k. I have not had any major engine damage and no gunk build up and the engine runs strong. I basically only change my oil once a year but I will agree that the type of oil filter being used does make a difference. I have yet to go 15k but I am considering putting the AMSOIL OIL By-Pass Filtration system on there and maybe this will get me the up to 15k. But 50k, thats impressive with no gunk in the engine. These cars will run forever as long as you do the maintence on them and these engines are basically bullet proof.
08-22-11, 09:04 AM
#77
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Nice input 
I was as surprised as can be when I did my OCV Valve and valve cover gaskets this past spring and found no gunk or build-up.
I think the reason the 50K think is working has to do with the quality Oil filter and the fact that every 5K miles its getting a full Quart to Qt-1/2 of oil. So by the time I hit 10K its got 2-3 new qts, which is 50% new oil, and by 20K Ive added 4-5 new qts.
My seats have a few small tears on them, and my door locks barely work, some other wear and tear things, but overall the car, especially the engine and suspension is in very good shape and runs strong.
I still take her to Vegas and San Diego and hit over 100MPH for good periods of time, (no police provided haha) Last trip from Vegas in March I decided to open it up, did 110-120 for about 10 miles...so its pretty neat to see the engine able to daily drive, plus open up it up.
At this stage Im more concerned with something like a water heater hose or something like the power steering or Engine Computer ECU breaking on a long trip than I am the engine giving up the ghost!
I was as surprised as can be when I did my OCV Valve and valve cover gaskets this past spring and found no gunk or build-up.
I think the reason the 50K think is working has to do with the quality Oil filter and the fact that every 5K miles its getting a full Quart to Qt-1/2 of oil. So by the time I hit 10K its got 2-3 new qts, which is 50% new oil, and by 20K Ive added 4-5 new qts.
My seats have a few small tears on them, and my door locks barely work, some other wear and tear things, but overall the car, especially the engine and suspension is in very good shape and runs strong.
I still take her to Vegas and San Diego and hit over 100MPH for good periods of time, (no police provided haha) Last trip from Vegas in March I decided to open it up, did 110-120 for about 10 miles...so its pretty neat to see the engine able to daily drive, plus open up it up.
At this stage Im more concerned with something like a water heater hose or something like the power steering or Engine Computer ECU breaking on a long trip than I am the engine giving up the ghost!
I have spent 2 days reading this thread and I can agree with you AZ-DAVE. I have a 91 LS400 with over 234k and I brought my LS400 brand new and I have always changed the oil at manufactures 7500k and I have always changed the oil filter once a year since I brought my Lexus in CA and this is according to the maintenance interval. I switched to AMSOIL in 2001 and I have pushed it to 10k but I change my oil filter every 5k. I have not had any major engine damage and no gunk build up and the engine runs strong. I basically only change my oil once a year but I will agree that the type of oil filter being used does make a difference. I have yet to go 15k but I am considering putting the AMSOIL OIL By-Pass Filtration system on there and maybe this will get me the up to 15k. But 50k, thats impressive with no gunk in the engine. These cars will run forever as long as you do the maintence on them and these engines are basically bullet proof.
08-26-11, 12:02 PM
#78
First post - OIL
Just to inform you this will be my first post on this forum. Since some people seem to relate number of posts to knowlege this may be of importance to know. Also I do own a 1999 GS 400 since that seemes to be important to know aswell. I also work for Lubrification Rock-Forest INC, a oil changing company which carries the Penzoil name.
If a persons car is still under any guarantee, I would strongly suggest performing the oil and transmission changes at the manufacturer's specified time intervals, regardless of which make or type of oil used, conventional, semi, or full synthetic oil.
I have seen people compleatly neglect to change their oil and filters and still run hundreds of thousands of kilometers. No doubt their motors are in far from perfect condition. On the other hand I've seen brand new Mazda rx-8's try to use full synthetic oil and scrap the motors within a month, (One of the only cars you can not use full synthetic oil).
On a daily basis I see people by brand new cars and then complain about a 40$ oil change. Even more ironic it's the owners of BMW's, lexus, and other more expensive cars that complain the most when the oil change cost over 100$, yet the 50000$ sell price was ok. And the poor bugger that buys a 2012 power-stroke turbo diesel truck is going to cry at the cash.
To go 50000 km with the same oil and just change filters can be done. What the result of it is perhaps is questionable. The car will still run if thats important. On my 2000 oldsmobile intrigue I went from the time i bought it at 201500km to 312000km when i sold it and never changed the oil or filter once. It took oil from the day I bought it and I was always adding Mobile 1 Synthetic oil. I traded it in for the lexus and the guy drove the olds away.
My lexus has a complete service history from 0km to 217000km when I bought it, and I am only the second owner. I changed oil to penzoil synthetic 5W30 at 220000km. Now at 227500km i can see the oil is not the nice color it was when i put it in and i am due for a oilchange. I personally will change both the oil and the filter.
As far as the transmission goes mine was slightly overdue at the time i bought it. I flushed it twice, 2.5 quarts each time and it looked like new. however after 3000 km it looks due again so i will flush it again shortly.
Inshort I don't mind paying to keep things in shape. When I had my 2000$ oldsmobile to drive around I didn't bother, but as a lexus owner I think at least I can do is afford a regular oil change or I wouldn't have bought a lexus.
Remy,
If a persons car is still under any guarantee, I would strongly suggest performing the oil and transmission changes at the manufacturer's specified time intervals, regardless of which make or type of oil used, conventional, semi, or full synthetic oil.
I have seen people compleatly neglect to change their oil and filters and still run hundreds of thousands of kilometers. No doubt their motors are in far from perfect condition. On the other hand I've seen brand new Mazda rx-8's try to use full synthetic oil and scrap the motors within a month, (One of the only cars you can not use full synthetic oil).
On a daily basis I see people by brand new cars and then complain about a 40$ oil change. Even more ironic it's the owners of BMW's, lexus, and other more expensive cars that complain the most when the oil change cost over 100$, yet the 50000$ sell price was ok. And the poor bugger that buys a 2012 power-stroke turbo diesel truck is going to cry at the cash.
To go 50000 km with the same oil and just change filters can be done. What the result of it is perhaps is questionable. The car will still run if thats important. On my 2000 oldsmobile intrigue I went from the time i bought it at 201500km to 312000km when i sold it and never changed the oil or filter once. It took oil from the day I bought it and I was always adding Mobile 1 Synthetic oil. I traded it in for the lexus and the guy drove the olds away.
My lexus has a complete service history from 0km to 217000km when I bought it, and I am only the second owner. I changed oil to penzoil synthetic 5W30 at 220000km. Now at 227500km i can see the oil is not the nice color it was when i put it in and i am due for a oilchange. I personally will change both the oil and the filter.
As far as the transmission goes mine was slightly overdue at the time i bought it. I flushed it twice, 2.5 quarts each time and it looked like new. however after 3000 km it looks due again so i will flush it again shortly.
Inshort I don't mind paying to keep things in shape. When I had my 2000$ oldsmobile to drive around I didn't bother, but as a lexus owner I think at least I can do is afford a regular oil change or I wouldn't have bought a lexus.
Remy,
09-08-11, 08:38 PM
#79
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motul's car oil isnt actually that great
it is fairly cheap and not as good as most of the synthetics out there
they do great bike stuff, dont get me wrong
but for cars, there are much more better alternatives out there
(ive tried motul myself)
right now for ease of access and a great price, Amazon has the valveline Synpower 6x quart bottles for $36... free shipping
and if you use subscribe and save, it is only $31..
heck of a deal and should go well with my Pureone filter
i dont go more than 6k at max for oil changes
it is not sludge im worried about
it is the minerals in the oil from wear and tear that i worry about
to OP, have you done the full oil analysis yet like another poster suggested?
sludge or not does not describe the full picture
it is fairly cheap and not as good as most of the synthetics out there
they do great bike stuff, dont get me wrong
but for cars, there are much more better alternatives out there
(ive tried motul myself)
right now for ease of access and a great price, Amazon has the valveline Synpower 6x quart bottles for $36... free shipping
and if you use subscribe and save, it is only $31..
heck of a deal and should go well with my Pureone filter
i dont go more than 6k at max for oil changes
it is not sludge im worried about
it is the minerals in the oil from wear and tear that i worry about
to OP, have you done the full oil analysis yet like another poster suggested?
sludge or not does not describe the full picture
09-09-11, 04:48 PM
#80
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
The Point Im trying to make on this thread (I started it) is that Ive been doing this on may car for over 200,000 Miles now...in 50,000 Mile increments, changing filters every 5,000 miles.
You mention 50,000 KM, which is only ~32 Miles...in any event, I appreciate your input.
Now, with regards to "How Good" my engine runs...Last year at 235,000 mile I raced a (my close friend) 2002 GS300 with only 95K miles for about 20 miles on my way from PHX to Las Vegas. We both floored the cars at the same stretch of road. We were a dead heat.
My engine doesnt just run, it still runs great. And I attribute that to the high quality filters I use, plus the fact that each filter change results in 1.5 qts of new oil...thus every 10 filter changes (50,000 miles) my engine sees 15 new qts of oil (yes it mixes but the additives and detergents are still added and presented). So in reality, I guess I cant claim to be running exclusively on "50,000 miles old oil", I simply state I dont actually drain the oil 100% until I put 50,000 miles on the car.
My engine performs better than most of the rest of the car at this point..its old, and tired, but she's mine...all mine.
You mention 50,000 KM, which is only ~32 Miles...in any event, I appreciate your input.
Now, with regards to "How Good" my engine runs...Last year at 235,000 mile I raced a (my close friend) 2002 GS300 with only 95K miles for about 20 miles on my way from PHX to Las Vegas. We both floored the cars at the same stretch of road. We were a dead heat.
My engine doesnt just run, it still runs great. And I attribute that to the high quality filters I use, plus the fact that each filter change results in 1.5 qts of new oil...thus every 10 filter changes (50,000 miles) my engine sees 15 new qts of oil (yes it mixes but the additives and detergents are still added and presented). So in reality, I guess I cant claim to be running exclusively on "50,000 miles old oil", I simply state I dont actually drain the oil 100% until I put 50,000 miles on the car.
My engine performs better than most of the rest of the car at this point..its old, and tired, but she's mine...all mine.
Just to inform you this will be my first post on this forum. Since some people seem to relate number of posts to knowlege this may be of importance to know. Also I do own a 1999 GS 400 since that seemes to be important to know aswell. I also work for Lubrification Rock-Forest INC, a oil changing company which carries the Penzoil name.
If a persons car is still under any guarantee, I would strongly suggest performing the oil and transmission changes at the manufacturer's specified time intervals, regardless of which make or type of oil used, conventional, semi, or full synthetic oil.
I have seen people compleatly neglect to change their oil and filters and still run hundreds of thousands of kilometers. No doubt their motors are in far from perfect condition. On the other hand I've seen brand new Mazda rx-8's try to use full synthetic oil and scrap the motors within a month, (One of the only cars you can not use full synthetic oil).
On a daily basis I see people by brand new cars and then complain about a 40$ oil change. Even more ironic it's the owners of BMW's, lexus, and other more expensive cars that complain the most when the oil change cost over 100$, yet the 50000$ sell price was ok. And the poor bugger that buys a 2012 power-stroke turbo diesel truck is going to cry at the cash.
To go 50000 km with the same oil and just change filters can be done. What the result of it is perhaps is questionable. The car will still run if thats important. On my 2000 oldsmobile intrigue I went from the time i bought it at 201500km to 312000km when i sold it and never changed the oil or filter once. It took oil from the day I bought it and I was always adding Mobile 1 Synthetic oil. I traded it in for the lexus and the guy drove the olds away.
My lexus has a complete service history from 0km to 217000km when I bought it, and I am only the second owner. I changed oil to penzoil synthetic 5W30 at 220000km. Now at 227500km i can see the oil is not the nice color it was when i put it in and i am due for a oilchange. I personally will change both the oil and the filter.
As far as the transmission goes mine was slightly overdue at the time i bought it. I flushed it twice, 2.5 quarts each time and it looked like new. however after 3000 km it looks due again so i will flush it again shortly.
Inshort I don't mind paying to keep things in shape. When I had my 2000$ oldsmobile to drive around I didn't bother, but as a lexus owner I think at least I can do is afford a regular oil change or I wouldn't have bought a lexus.
Remy,
If a persons car is still under any guarantee, I would strongly suggest performing the oil and transmission changes at the manufacturer's specified time intervals, regardless of which make or type of oil used, conventional, semi, or full synthetic oil.
I have seen people compleatly neglect to change their oil and filters and still run hundreds of thousands of kilometers. No doubt their motors are in far from perfect condition. On the other hand I've seen brand new Mazda rx-8's try to use full synthetic oil and scrap the motors within a month, (One of the only cars you can not use full synthetic oil).
On a daily basis I see people by brand new cars and then complain about a 40$ oil change. Even more ironic it's the owners of BMW's, lexus, and other more expensive cars that complain the most when the oil change cost over 100$, yet the 50000$ sell price was ok. And the poor bugger that buys a 2012 power-stroke turbo diesel truck is going to cry at the cash.
To go 50000 km with the same oil and just change filters can be done. What the result of it is perhaps is questionable. The car will still run if thats important. On my 2000 oldsmobile intrigue I went from the time i bought it at 201500km to 312000km when i sold it and never changed the oil or filter once. It took oil from the day I bought it and I was always adding Mobile 1 Synthetic oil. I traded it in for the lexus and the guy drove the olds away.
My lexus has a complete service history from 0km to 217000km when I bought it, and I am only the second owner. I changed oil to penzoil synthetic 5W30 at 220000km. Now at 227500km i can see the oil is not the nice color it was when i put it in and i am due for a oilchange. I personally will change both the oil and the filter.
As far as the transmission goes mine was slightly overdue at the time i bought it. I flushed it twice, 2.5 quarts each time and it looked like new. however after 3000 km it looks due again so i will flush it again shortly.
Inshort I don't mind paying to keep things in shape. When I had my 2000$ oldsmobile to drive around I didn't bother, but as a lexus owner I think at least I can do is afford a regular oil change or I wouldn't have bought a lexus.
Remy,
Last edited by az-dave; 09-12-11 at 09:16 AM.
09-11-11, 10:30 AM
#82
Just got some Amsoil 100% Synthetic 5w30 for my 98 GS400 (206k)
The dealer says it will last a whole year or 25k miles. Can anyone vouch? Will change after 15k just to be safe. Also do you guys with Gs400s put 5.5qts or 6qts when you change your oil?
The dealer says it will last a whole year or 25k miles. Can anyone vouch? Will change after 15k just to be safe. Also do you guys with Gs400s put 5.5qts or 6qts when you change your oil?
09-12-11, 09:38 AM
#84
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
I never said "special"...tricky tricky..I said "High Quality".
I use either K&N or Purolator or Mobil 1. No Generics or Fram.
Toyota Filters are actually very good quality as well, but pricey and I hate driving to the dealers.
If anyone wants to get into Filter Quality arguments, be prepared to provide filtering media, area of filter available, % and micron size filtered, flow rates, and materials used. That should really be a different thread :-)
Cost doesnt = quality either, although the inexpensive filters Ive seen and taken apart tend to be manufactured to a far lesser degree of quality.
I use either K&N or Purolator or Mobil 1. No Generics or Fram.
Toyota Filters are actually very good quality as well, but pricey and I hate driving to the dealers.
If anyone wants to get into Filter Quality arguments, be prepared to provide filtering media, area of filter available, % and micron size filtered, flow rates, and materials used. That should really be a different thread :-)
Cost doesnt = quality either, although the inexpensive filters Ive seen and taken apart tend to be manufactured to a far lesser degree of quality.
09-12-11, 09:48 AM
#85
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Not only have I read this on numerous sites, Ive also talked to a few people who do so. Amsoil is supposed to be better quality than Valvoline or Mobil One (the 2 Oils I use, cuz Ams is a little expensive for my liking) so I cant see why it wouldn't be fine.
I can only say, change that filter 2 or 3 times in that 25K. :-)
I can only say, change that filter 2 or 3 times in that 25K. :-)
09-12-11, 09:52 AM
#86
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
who is OP?
Is this post directed toward me or someone else?
Is this post directed toward me or someone else?
09-12-11, 10:53 AM
#87
YOU are OP.....OP just means original poster. yes, the comment was directed at you.as i said, i have done a oil analysis with blackstone. they dont recommend anymore than the 8k oil changes i go to. i would like to see what they say about yours if you ever have done/will do one
BTW we have a multi-quote button to answer many messages at once
BTW we have a multi-quote button to answer many messages at once
09-13-11, 09:50 AM
#89
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
OK Gotchya, so Blackstone doesnt recommend going past 8KM (5K Mi).
Now, I can completely understand and respect their recommendation to you, first because the 'traditional' industry, except a few new oil mfgr's has Never recommended extended oil changes and Second, more than likely Blackstone doesnt want to be responsible or Liable for recommending to ANYONE that they Dont change their Oil longer than the Vehicle mfgr's recommended interval.
Its a Liability thing.
As for me and my car. Its got over 250K miles on it...It doesnt burn more than 1/2 qt per 3000 miles (which is well within Lexus range of 0.5 to 1 qt per 5,000 miles). It doesnt smoke and passes all emissions tests, it still drives 120mph with ease, and its clean as a whistle inside.
So...my stance remains the same: For WHAT REASON should I start changing my oil every 5000mi or so, when Ive been doing it every 50,000 with only filters and 1 additional qt every 5,000 ?
I have about 2500 miles on my latest oil change. I will get an analysis done when I go to replace the filter in another 2500 miles. But even if the analysis shows the oil is "unfit" for lubricating an engine, and I drive yet another 50,000 miles to 300,000 total miles...will that analysis really mean anything except that "by the numbers the oil isnt good", when real-life results show its perfectly fine...
This is a classic example of "Text Book" vs "Experience" (AKA Real World Results) knowledge.
My real world results Fly in the face of ALL Oil recommendations....so...what do those recommendations really mean?
I suspect my rack and pinion, or wheel bearings, or fuel injection will end up going out before the actual engine will...with or without 5,000mi oil intervals.
My seats just finally ripped this year, the radio lights burned out and my Indiglo Gauges are dim...
Now, I can completely understand and respect their recommendation to you, first because the 'traditional' industry, except a few new oil mfgr's has Never recommended extended oil changes and Second, more than likely Blackstone doesnt want to be responsible or Liable for recommending to ANYONE that they Dont change their Oil longer than the Vehicle mfgr's recommended interval.
Its a Liability thing.
As for me and my car. Its got over 250K miles on it...It doesnt burn more than 1/2 qt per 3000 miles (which is well within Lexus range of 0.5 to 1 qt per 5,000 miles). It doesnt smoke and passes all emissions tests, it still drives 120mph with ease, and its clean as a whistle inside.
So...my stance remains the same: For WHAT REASON should I start changing my oil every 5000mi or so, when Ive been doing it every 50,000 with only filters and 1 additional qt every 5,000 ?
I have about 2500 miles on my latest oil change. I will get an analysis done when I go to replace the filter in another 2500 miles. But even if the analysis shows the oil is "unfit" for lubricating an engine, and I drive yet another 50,000 miles to 300,000 total miles...will that analysis really mean anything except that "by the numbers the oil isnt good", when real-life results show its perfectly fine...
This is a classic example of "Text Book" vs "Experience" (AKA Real World Results) knowledge.
My real world results Fly in the face of ALL Oil recommendations....so...what do those recommendations really mean?
I suspect my rack and pinion, or wheel bearings, or fuel injection will end up going out before the actual engine will...with or without 5,000mi oil intervals.
My seats just finally ripped this year, the radio lights burned out and my Indiglo Gauges are dim...
YOU are OP.....OP just means original poster. yes, the comment was directed at you.as i said, i have done a oil analysis with blackstone. they dont recommend anymore than the 8k oil changes i go to. i would like to see what they say about yours if you ever have done/will do one
BTW we have a multi-quote button to answer many messages at once
BTW we have a multi-quote button to answer many messages at once
09-13-11, 10:01 AM
#90
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
One more thing Sak...
Why would I START a thread about something I claim to do, but dont do?
Please take a minute to look at my other posts and other threads Ive started. I provide detailed pictures, even with graphics and labels. Detailed instructions on how to repair/diagnose several difficult issues.
Inferring I dont actually drain my Oil every 50,000 miles insinuates that I just decided to start a thread and do 20+ posts about it as a waste of my time...makes no sense does it?
Plus, I think you may not be factoring in that every 5,000 miles my engine gets a fresh Qt to 1.5 Qts of Oil due to the loss of oil in 5000 miles od driving as well as the loss from the Filter change.
Ive helped dozens of people on this site with the Limp Mode issues, Throttle Body repairs, OCV Valve repairs, Tranny issues, Master Cylinder, etc etc...I have no desire to start BS threads.
My First Post states that I knew this was going to be controversial. And I also NEVER recommended anyone else do what I do...this thread was started to see if OTHERS have any similar experiences.
Why would I START a thread about something I claim to do, but dont do?
Please take a minute to look at my other posts and other threads Ive started. I provide detailed pictures, even with graphics and labels. Detailed instructions on how to repair/diagnose several difficult issues.
Inferring I dont actually drain my Oil every 50,000 miles insinuates that I just decided to start a thread and do 20+ posts about it as a waste of my time...makes no sense does it?
Plus, I think you may not be factoring in that every 5,000 miles my engine gets a fresh Qt to 1.5 Qts of Oil due to the loss of oil in 5000 miles od driving as well as the loss from the Filter change.
Ive helped dozens of people on this site with the Limp Mode issues, Throttle Body repairs, OCV Valve repairs, Tranny issues, Master Cylinder, etc etc...I have no desire to start BS threads.
My First Post states that I knew this was going to be controversial. And I also NEVER recommended anyone else do what I do...this thread was started to see if OTHERS have any similar experiences.