Oil type
find me a scientific proof that high mileage cars will certainly leak oil going from conventional to synthetic.
if you went from conventional to synthetic and you're getting leaks, that means your seals are bad in the first place; conventional oil just masks the problem because of less cleaning agents in the oil.
"synthetic is best..but if you have been using normal motor oil you will probably have a small leak (most likely at gaskets aka "seals")"
The point was that you would most likely have to replace some seals/gaskets...
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,043
Likes: 31
From: CA
and, a cars engine does wear down..your theory of (it got you that far, no sense in changing...) is not based on anything scientific..(would you say that about tires? no..) a engine does wear down..and get leaks/etc.. and at 114K...that engine has tons of life left..so why would you not want to do something to keep it running at optimal performance?
This is sort of my point too though so we agree, but let me clarify and make a point.
I asked the OP to say if there are any symptoms he was trying to address.
If you have zero symptoms, then use the manf recommended until something shows up.
If you have leaks or engine rattling or something, then you address that symptom regardless of age, it could be at 30k, 100k, 500k. The symptom also might not be solved by a different oil, so don't automatically go to that solution.
To say use a thicker grade of oil for older cars doesn't make sense.
What you really want to say is if your car has a leaky seal burning oil, then use a thicker oil to get around that leak.
This is sort of my point too though so we agree, but let me clarify and make a point.
I asked the OP to say if there are any symptoms he was trying to address.
If you have zero symptoms, then use the manf recommended until something shows up.
If you have leaks or engine rattling or something, then you address that symptom regardless of age, it could be at 30k, 100k, 500k. The symptom also might not be solved by a different oil, so don't automatically go to that solution.
To say use a thicker grade of oil for older cars doesn't make sense.
What you really want to say is if your car has a leaky seal burning oil, then use a thicker oil to get around that leak.
I asked the OP to say if there are any symptoms he was trying to address.
If you have zero symptoms, then use the manf recommended until something shows up.
If you have leaks or engine rattling or something, then you address that symptom regardless of age, it could be at 30k, 100k, 500k. The symptom also might not be solved by a different oil, so don't automatically go to that solution.
To say use a thicker grade of oil for older cars doesn't make sense.
What you really want to say is if your car has a leaky seal burning oil, then use a thicker oil to get around that leak.
Lexus Champion
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,347
Likes: 6
From: RI
ok, why dont we just leave this pissing contest with useful information.
5w30 is recommended (i can at least say for sure on my 01 gs3, dont know about older or gs4 models.). 10w30 is fine to use, just not in super cold climates. If your only reason for running a higher viscosity oil is to 'get around' a leak, this wont solve your problem. If you have a leak, if you're burning oil, fix the damn thing right. Using higher viscosity oil is only a bandaid and will likely hurt more than help in the long run.
synthetic, blend, or standard, whatever you want to use just keep it consistent. If you are switching from standard to synthetic, i personally would recommend running a blend for at least 2 oil change cycles before going full synthetic.
end of story, period.
and ford, it's 5w30 in the manual, as is on the oil cap on top of the engine.
5w30 is recommended (i can at least say for sure on my 01 gs3, dont know about older or gs4 models.). 10w30 is fine to use, just not in super cold climates. If your only reason for running a higher viscosity oil is to 'get around' a leak, this wont solve your problem. If you have a leak, if you're burning oil, fix the damn thing right. Using higher viscosity oil is only a bandaid and will likely hurt more than help in the long run.
synthetic, blend, or standard, whatever you want to use just keep it consistent. If you are switching from standard to synthetic, i personally would recommend running a blend for at least 2 oil change cycles before going full synthetic.
end of story, period.
and ford, it's 5w30 in the manual, as is on the oil cap on top of the engine.
ok, why dont we just leave this pissing contest with useful information.
5w30 is recommended (i can at least say for sure on my 01 gs3, dont know about older or gs4 models.). 10w30 is fine to use, just not in super cold climates. If your only reason for running a higher viscosity oil is to 'get around' a leak, this wont solve your problem. If you have a leak, if you're burning oil, fix the damn thing right. Using higher viscosity oil is only a bandaid and will likely hurt more than help in the long run.
synthetic, blend, or standard, whatever you want to use just keep it consistent. If you are switching from standard to synthetic, i personally would recommend running a blend for at least 2 oil change cycles before going full synthetic.
end of story, period.
and ford, it's 5w30 in the manual, as is on the oil cap on top of the engine.
5w30 is recommended (i can at least say for sure on my 01 gs3, dont know about older or gs4 models.). 10w30 is fine to use, just not in super cold climates. If your only reason for running a higher viscosity oil is to 'get around' a leak, this wont solve your problem. If you have a leak, if you're burning oil, fix the damn thing right. Using higher viscosity oil is only a bandaid and will likely hurt more than help in the long run.
synthetic, blend, or standard, whatever you want to use just keep it consistent. If you are switching from standard to synthetic, i personally would recommend running a blend for at least 2 oil change cycles before going full synthetic.
end of story, period.
and ford, it's 5w30 in the manual, as is on the oil cap on top of the engine.
oh and i have a 98..and the OP has a 99..so for us..this is true..if they changed the manual in 01+ then sorry...
i don't even know why you guys are fighting over 5w30 and 10w30. it's technically the same weight at operating temperature, just one is better for cold start.
edit: if you really want to learn about motor oil, go on a motor oil forum.
Last edited by ElitistK; Dec 31, 2008 at 11:02 PM.
There are plenty of people who switched to synthetic at 200k+ miles without any problems. Given the same year, some low mileage cars that are over a decade old sometimes have seals and gaskets worse than a higher mileage car. The reason why i say your statement is a myth because it's not even half true for most applications. It might sound true on paper, but in real life it's not true for all.
i don't even know why you guys are fighting over 5w30 and 10w30. it's technically the same weight at operating temperature, just one is better for cold start.
edit: if you really want to learn about motor oil, go on a motor oil forum.
i don't even know why you guys are fighting over 5w30 and 10w30. it's technically the same weight at operating temperature, just one is better for cold start.
edit: if you really want to learn about motor oil, go on a motor oil forum.
ClubLexus Stories
Celebrating Lexus & Toyota from Around the Globe
10 Lexus Bargains That are Cheaper Than a New Toyota RAV4
Joe Kucinski
8 Weirdest Things Lexus Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
10 Lexus Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
8 Tips for Improving Your Hybrid or Plug-in Hybrid's Efficiency!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Best Lexus Models No One Remembers
Joe Kucinski
TRD Off-Road Premium: Best 2026 4Runner, Except This One Thing
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Lexus & Toyotas to Drive Before You Die!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Lexus/Toyotas With The LEAST 5-Year Depreciation
Joe Kucinski
Lexus LC500 Convertible Auction: A Preview of Rising Values?
Brett Foote
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post