Well i havent scanned the sheet yet ! but as it goes! which these numbers seem kinda low !
231.88 rwhp and 269.15 rwtq ! whats weird is the car kept shifting into 4th gear when i tried to dyno it in 3rd! then when we dynoed it in 4th it shifted into overdrive ! but the car is completely stock except for a k&n drop-in filter ! the reason i dynoed the car was to compare the rwhp/rwtq before/after installing and tuning the apexi afc and intake ! so i guess within the next week or so i'll put it back on the dyno !

 

did you dyno it on the 22's? if so that could throw your number off a little. Other than that, the trans shifting like that will definitely have an effect, always such a pain in the *** to dyno an automatic.

231 to the wheels though, that's gotta be close to 300 crank anyways (i think 300 crank is 240 wheels?), doesn't seem too far off to me...

 

Can you not dyno the car while manually leaving the car in third gear with e-shift?

 

He has a GS430 so there is no e-shift. The only way is to move the lever into 4th gear.. even then the transmission is electronically controlled. I dont know how they did the dyno run so I can't comment on why the car is acting the way it is.

 

well yeah with the gate it won't leave third, but usually they hold at a certain lower RPM then punch it, causing the trans computer to kick down more than likely and then shift before redline. That's the only tough part with autos. Even e-shift should shift itself eventually no? I haven't tried it in my GS3 but every other tiptronic car i've driven has that built in, as well as an automatic downshift at certain RPM or kickdown on hard accel.

 

Well i was told that on the 01-up gs 430's that since the front wheels arent moving the computer for some reason will tend to shift by itself ! cause when i left the dyno i could run each gear till rev-limiter ! but no luck on the dyno hittin the rev-limiter ! also the i dynoed the car on my spare set of 19" rims !

 

When I dyno my car. I unplug the MAF sensor. Doing that will throw the transmission into safe mode and it will not shift out of 3rd gear. I'm on a standalone so I don't need the MAF sensor to run the engine. It's just in there to keep the transmission controller happy. Obviously this is not an option for any of you unless you are on a standalone.

 

Did you make sure they that the VSC was off? When I had mine dynoed, in 4th gear it kept dropping to 3rd when accelerated hard so 3rd was used. If it is manually put in "D3" it will not not go to 4th.
The dyno guy probably just put it in Drive and and when it shifted to 3rd he tried to keep it there then of course when you get on the gas hard to red line it wants to down shift to 3rd.

What kind of dyno did you use Dynojet,Mustang??

 

It was a Dynojet dyno ! and i was actually inside the car ! i did about 6 pulls and the car kept reading higher and higher each pull for some strange reason first pull 219rwhp/254rwtq but between the 5th and 6th pull i disconnected both front and rear batteries and let the ecu reset and the 5th/6th pull read 231.88rwhp/269.15 rwtq! itried leaving it in 2nd and it still shifted to 3rd, then i tried 3rd gear a couple of times and it still shifted into 4th ! and yes the VSC was off on all pulls ! so i got my afc !soon as i get an intake i'll install both and head back to the dyno and get it tuned and see what happens and i'll post both dyno sheets before and after piggyback !

 

If you look back at one of my old threads from last year you will see that I achieved just a hair under 270whp on the dyno with just TM spark plugs, K&N intake and the Apexi Neo A/F controller. Oh, and a Borla rear section exhaust but that probably didn't do much. lol You should achieve similar results although my baseline was higher than yours. GL!

 

well i did some math today and this is what i came up with ! for roughly $3500 in performance mods/labor i can get about 270 rwhp! so i threw this in the mix ! 1jz swap =$1800 shipped to my door or 2jzgtte swap=$2500 shipped to my door ! and either motor installed and for $2500 in labor including fuel pump and regulator! just a thought i have in the air !

 

Unless you're emotionally attached to that car, I would get rid of it and pick up a GS300. No point of ripping out a perfectly good V8 motor to drop in the swap afterwards. More cost effective to get some money from the resale difference then use that towards doing a swap on the GS300. Boosting the stock GS300 motor is the most cost effective solution.

 

your numbers looks similar to G35 but with a lot more TQ

 

has any one done the 4.7L Swap.. im going to have a Spare 1uzfe lying around From my LS. and what are the numbers

 

Contact the guys over at Lextreme. I believe they have stroker kits for the 4.0L and 4.3L respectively. It will had some serious power and still keep the car N/A. Not sure the cost though...I think it's around $5-6K